Morning, forum. First, not the first time I've posted about this issue. It's been ongoing for well over a year and I've gained a lot of great info from the forum. Still, my issue is un-diagnosed and wondering if someone can talk me off the ledge.

I have experience slight bucking/hesitation in shifting for quite some time now. I know there was some software update. Not it. I'm updated. I have changed tranny fluid, twice. Once because it was needed and twice because I thought it was done wrong and further compounded the shifting issue. (Issues are in low gears. 1/2 2/3).

I haven't gone to rover in three years. Found an Indy who is a lr master tech, now working for Benz and I like the guy a lot and he seems to know his stuff, but he's being cryptic on this one. I have to wonder if he knows I need a tranny and he's just going to milk me for as long as possible. On the other hand, if that's his strategy he should raise his prices. The guy is so damn affordable!

So four months ago I told him "tranny no bueno , ya sure you did the tranny fluid right?" He took it back and did the fluid again and I asked him to reset the adaptations. He's got a friend w a t4 which is nice.

It comes back and the thing is shifting like a dream!!! Three months later(now) I feel the hesitation slowing coming back and getting worse.

The problem has always been exaggerated in the am when it's cold. To me that pointed to a fluid issue. But what do I know.

What are my options? What is the underlying issue? I feel like my driving style doesn't warrant this thing re-learning this behavior so quickly. I do mostly highway driving. (Perfect car for commuting long distances I'd say).

Yes I could have the guy reset my adaptations every three months. But, that's just a temp fix. What do you guys think?

Gear box? Tranny? Torque converter?flux capacitor?

Thanks all.

Ps. No tranny faults. I almost want one. But nothing lighting up on dash.

Pss. 142 k. Got truck w 31 on it.

 

Next to replacing the FC, my standard solves all is installing a new brake light switch. In your case, I really doubt that would be the solution, however a brake light switch acting up tends to exhibit its problems first thing in the morning - usually a cold morning and all is good the remainder of the day.

The cost of the new switch is about $25.00 and changing it is a clean hands task. The switch does more than operate the brake lights; well the primary set of contacts does that but the secondary set signals the ABS system and those signals end up going to the tranny and everywhere else it seems via the computers.

Replacing the switch is not a waste of time nor money as it is only a matter of time until it does start creating false problems - and that is the real problem - the indicated problems are not real ones. You however do appear to have a real problem - that is you can feel it, but at the same time Cruise Control Not Available would be a real problem if you wished to use it and you could not call it up.

Normally you get Cruise Control Not Available messages on the dash display and sometimes a Tranny Fault message, neither of which you are getting. Also bad or non OEM brake light and or signal light bulbs can cause similar concerns.

The link below is to an album I have on the brake light switch and the second to the tranny.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission in LR3

Beam me up, Scotty.

 

I'm willing to give it a shot. I know these things cause havoc. I keep two extra oems brake light switches on hand. Never thought it was that but I'll throw it in this morning and see if anything changes. Keep you posted and thanks.

 

Oh. What's the "FC"?

 

The odds are better that the tranny problem is caused by the Brake Light Switch rather than the FC. Much like the E-Diff, the FC is not on many of the 3's. As it is so rare, I am not certain if the FC is supplementary to the E-Diff system but may be as the E-Diff is supposed to augment the 3's go anywhere capabilities.

For myself, I just try to keep my 3 between the ditches, (that is why I purchased it), rather than for any particular go anywhere capabilities.

I have enough trouble with the here and now without going on a gadabout.

 

That's a good one BB, hilarious and sad at the same time..

I would also inspect the shift lever assembly if you are in a rust prone area.

 

Unseenone is correct, there is a bushing/arm underneath that rusts and seizes up. The part number is LR012704.

Replacement is a relatively easy fix. I had forgotten about it - much cheaper and easier to obtain than a FC as well.

LR012704 | LEVER AUTO GEAR SELECTOR DIS3-RRS-RR | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd