Bought used 2010 LR4 5 months ago from dealer (well maintained, 49k)-- this past weekend, in the fast lane-- unable to accelerate and car went limp (down shifting)-- pulled over 4 lanes of traffic. Occurred several more times-- dealer tried to update control control module and said it could be a bad MAP sensor (we have not replaced this yet...).. In the end, were told we need a new transmission. We're at 51k miles-- and quoted anywhere from 5k for a rebuilt transmission to 11k for a new one. So frustrated. This is the second lemon we bought from our dealer (first was a year of problems and finally sold/traded in for a newer). Anyone have recommendations besides painting it yellow, putting it in front of the LR dealership and writing "dead transmission at 50k"? Anyone get LR to help slightly out of warranty? We didn't buy the extended warranty as we had it for our last lemon and was crap. So frustrated.

Thanks!

 

Thats a tough way to start out, I hear you on third party warranties, one came with the used car I picked up and its done me no favors.
This is the LR3 forum, might have better luck in the LR4 one.

 

I mentioned he should post in the LR3 section as I believe the 2010 LR4 has the same Trans as a 3, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Good question whether they are the same. Both are ZF units but I thought the LR4 from 2010 onwards used a different model 6 speed, and then shifted to an 8 speed for 2012 or 2013

Worth calling Atlantic British. They offer reconditioned ZF transmissions for the LR3. If they are compatible that might save a lot for the unit itself

 

I would want to know a lot more details about what was wrong with the transmission that it needed a complete replacement. That's certainly not a common failure. I would also strongly consider a 2nd opinion, possibly from an indy shop. You didn't list your location but if you happen to be in the Bay area I can make some recommendations.

 

What I am certain of is that if your 4 was still on the factory warranty, you would not be told the tranny needs to be replaced or rebuilt.

The term "sealed for life" means Land Rover leasing never changes the oil while the vehicle is on lease; it does not mean that the tranny never needs an oil and filter change.

In your case, the problem may not be as simple as an oil change, but do not be surprised. The problem will probably be with the Mechatronic or the wiring to it, but not software. The link below is to a number of files I have related to the 6HP26 in my 3. (Ford 6R60) and files on the Mechatronic unit which is the gear shifter.

Your 4 will have the 6HP28, of which something similar is found in the older Ford Raptors and Mustangs, but is called a 6R80 in Ford speak.


My experience is that no Land Rover dealer, or for that matter, Mercedes, Audie, or BMW dealer has any expertise related to the ZF transmissions.

They all will have an outside truly independent shop that knows how to spell ZF in German, Zahnradfabrik, and what it means as well - Gear Factory.

The good news is that both Ford and Chrysler are license building ZF trannys for their pickups/muscle cars so the knowledge level re the ZF product is growing but it is still a black art thing.

What you need to do is find the shop that knows ZF. It is usually found in the East End. Littered outside are dead Mercedes and Beamers - that will be the place, and Lattes are not available there, nor will there be a Starbucks nearly.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission in LR3

 

Ha! My indy shop in LA has a Starbucks two doors down. Great for those quick stop ins.

Thanks for the info. I have a slight clunk in low gear when decelerating on a 2006 LR3 and have been reading up. Understand I should do a trans oil change and see if that helps.

 

The video is good and accurate for an F-150, but on your 3, an oil / filter change is alot harder.

There is a cross brace and exhaust pipe that makes the plastic pan removal near impossible unless you either jack the engine a bit or cut off that vertical plastic nipple on the plastic filter that is integral to the plastic pan.

The same problem in reverse exists when you go to install a new plastic pan except that one cannot of course cut off the vertical nipple. As such, jacking the engine is a "solution" to get the additional space.

If however you were installing a metal pan with the separate filter then you do not have the jacking problem re going back together, but access is still no fun.

Be aware however that the metal pan uses a flat gasket and the plastic pan uses a O ring like perimeter gasket that sits in a half round groove in the tranny casing. Also the metal pan uses 21 shorter torx M6x22.5 metric cap screws for the perimeter bolts. The plastic pan uses longer M6x28.5 torx metric cap screws.

6HP26 Plastic to steel oil pan conversion kit

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/disp...um=5059&pos=12

 

I was thinking that I just needed to change the oil and not the filter but I'm seeing that LR recommends changing that at 10years.

Is it recommended to change out to a metal pan?

Here is a video that I'm sure has been linked before for the process described above:

 

I see you are in California so cold is not a concern.

My independent up here in Alberta prefers the plastic pan as the oil tends to remain warmer in the winter months.

The main advantage of the metal pan if that once installed, the next oil and filter change is less difficult as for the most part, the filter can be installed with most of the other pipes in place and then the pan slides in.

With the plastic pan and integral filter, while one can get it out by cutting the vertical nipple off, the nipple on the new filter must of course remain in place - hence additional vertical space is required.

And yes, new filter with new oil after ten years or 50 to 80 thousand miles, and to my mind, that flush out the old oil, leave filter in place procedure is perhaps OK for low performance vehicles but not for the high performance ones.