Heeeeelllllpp!!

Just had my local shop install a new head unit, door speakers, and aftermarket amp in my 06 LR3 SE. It was a pretty much ground up build. Here's what's up.

Installed a Blaupunkt head unit, 4x Blaupunkt door speakers. Used metra wiring harness, not retaining SWC as I never use them anyways.

Installed a Rockville 5000w amp with all new amp wiring and in line fuses. Used amp bypass kit to save rewiring truck.

Truck entered shop with no radio, no nav screen. Empty dash. No faults for HDC, trans, suspension. Nothing at all.

Everything works as the stereo and amp should, but now when I press my brake, I get the Christmas tree. HDC error, lowered suspension, transmission fault, special programs unavailable, abs light, brake light, no brake lights at all. Brake switch is new. Battery is good. Alternator is good. Recalibrated SAS. They had the battery unhooked the two days it was in the shop but it still shows good voltage. It has aftermarket LED taillights with resistor wired into it for voltage errors.

Could they have tapped a ground or destroyed a wire related to my brake switch/lights?

They ran the power wire under passenger side footwell to rear seat to the amp which is under passenger rear seat.

Could they have hooked up something they weren't supposed to on the radio/harness? I'm at a loss and so are they. I'm trying to avoid a trip to ther dealer so any help is appreciated.

 

Sounds like they have disturbed something or maybe the battery just got low while they fitted it, stick a charger on it overnight and see if that helps.

 

I wonder if they waited the recommended two minutes after ignition off, before disconnecting the battery. You may have to go to an automotive shop with a good scan tool and get all the codes reset, and modules communicating. I own an LR3, and install stereos for a living, so feel free to send any questions my way.

 

The two minutes if for infomat to save setting, mainly nav related so it really only pertains to vehicles with stock nav units. Its basically like a computer that needs to properly shutdown otherwise the next power up takes longer. Thats all.

 

I don’t even care about changing out the radio. I used to have an SE and now drive an HSE and I just miss the cubby so bad. How do I remove the screen and just get my useful storage back?

 

Anybody have any feedback on these wiring harnesses?

Metra Online ~$350ish on ebay


https://www.spiralaudio.com/index.ph...roduct_id=1686 $199

and this one for $348

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...he-LPLR25.html

I have been wanting to add a car play head unit for a while now.

 

The radio / nav surround trim just pulls off towards the back of the vehicle. There are 4 screws holding the display mounting bracket down. You will need to get a fiber optic bypass loop from Amazon or Ebay so the audio system will still work correctly without the display. The cubby hole on the SE is molded into the dash pad, so there is no part you can buy for your HSE. You will have to make your own insert. I just folded some trunk liner up and laid my wireless charger over it.

 

Which did you end up going with? I just ordered a head unit thinking it would be a plug and play situation like my other vehicles but no luck with this one. I have the SWC retention plug but that's it. I have the Logic7 system w/ factory nav and wanted to at least retain the off-road screen. I don't care about the factory nav as the new unit has CarPlay but trying to figure out which harness I need. Ive seen everything from bypass harnesses to using the factory amp but must admit I'm lost when it comes to this stuff if it isn't plug and play. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

You wont keep the 4x4 info, you lose that as soon as you replace the head unit. Some guys take a pcb out of the old unit and tuck behind the dash which allows you to keep it but don't know anyone personally that has done it.