New Key Dealer only?
#11
Hiya Guys,
Once upon a time, if you lost all keys you could not learn a new one and so were pretty stuffed. Obviously this was a riduclous situation and although not easily found and promoted, it is now possible with later versions of the SDD software to learn a new key without an existing learned key being present.
Once upon a time, if you lost all keys you could not learn a new one and so were pretty stuffed. Obviously this was a riduclous situation and although not easily found and promoted, it is now possible with later versions of the SDD software to learn a new key without an existing learned key being present.
I take it that only the SDD software can do as BBS GUY describes, not Faultmate or anything a locksmith might have? How likely is it that a non-dealer shop might have a recent version of SDD?
Then there is the question of whether a locksmith can pattern a key without an existing one as a reference...
The ~$400 total cost I have seen in posts, even fairly recent ones, is looking good compared to this!
My location is Fort Collins, CO, BTW.
#12
pretty unlikely
I take it that only the SDD software can do as BBS GUY describes, not Faultmate or anything a locksmith might have? How likely is it that a non-dealer shop might have a recent version of SDD?
Then there is the question of whether a locksmith can pattern a key without an existing one as a reference... My location is Fort Collins, CO, BTW.
Then there is the question of whether a locksmith can pattern a key without an existing one as a reference... My location is Fort Collins, CO, BTW.
I found it even difficult to get a new key thru my dealer. It is not that they are bumble fumbles, it is more that LR UK has their problems as well - at least once a year it seems LR UK sends defective replacment key fobs out world wide and when they get complaints from all over, discover their programming software thingy has got the flu again.
As to cutting the key blank, even if you have the correct bank - there seem to be two styles - while all agree that with one of those "sidewinder" machines, it is routine, it is not always so. By that I mean, the cut key that appears perfect still may not even open the locked door that has the keyhole, let alone turn the ignition and of course, will not start the engine - and if there is no blank to start out with, the sidewinder is beat.
Bottom line was I regarded myself as fortunate to even get a second key fob/blade that worked and was "happy" to pay the five hundred or so to my dealer.
If there is a bright side to all this, you have to hijack a 3 to get one; just standing near it and fiddling with some magic box in the dark is hopeless; ones time is better spent researching a BMW or Lexus.
Last edited by bbyer; 04-07-2014 at 11:29 PM. Reason: spelling
#13
#14
key blade part number
The part number for my key blade only was CWF500011SW.
The cost was about forty dollars cut to suit my 3 from LR UK and took a couple of weeks to show up; as such, two days is a real surprise since that also includes the suitable key fob.
As I believe their may be more than one key blank shape, that part number may not be good for all LR3's.
I attached the new good key blade to a non working key fob and have it tied on under my 3 to facilitate me getting in should I lock my working key within.
The cost was about forty dollars cut to suit my 3 from LR UK and took a couple of weeks to show up; as such, two days is a real surprise since that also includes the suitable key fob.
As I believe their may be more than one key blank shape, that part number may not be good for all LR3's.
I attached the new good key blade to a non working key fob and have it tied on under my 3 to facilitate me getting in should I lock my working key within.
#15
#16
I am pleased to report that, as a result of a granted request to go to my kid's friend's house and conduct a search myself, I found the key in short order, deep inside a couch.
Whew! Having to have the truck transported is now out of the picture. However, I am now highly motivated to acquire a backup key. I am suspecting, based upon MSRPs I have seen, that the dealer may have, given the situation, reasonably assumed I wanted two keys, and quoted me for that. If so, $350 or so for one key is a lot easier to stomach.
It is still tempting to order a cut shank through the dealer, get a fob online for $130-$180 if and only if I can be assured it is truly a new OEM fob, and take it to the dealer for programming.
Whew! Having to have the truck transported is now out of the picture. However, I am now highly motivated to acquire a backup key. I am suspecting, based upon MSRPs I have seen, that the dealer may have, given the situation, reasonably assumed I wanted two keys, and quoted me for that. If so, $350 or so for one key is a lot easier to stomach.
It is still tempting to order a cut shank through the dealer, get a fob online for $130-$180 if and only if I can be assured it is truly a new OEM fob, and take it to the dealer for programming.
#17
usually a good education
First, I must complement you on your detective work. The real problem was not the cost of the new key, but that you had effectively lost your 3 as well.
As to your suggested do it yourself new key method, now that you have the luxury of time, it is probably worth the education in trying to beat the system so to speak. Many have tried, some have succeeded, and there is always the dealer to fall back on. As it is you need the dealer anyway.
I do not think even the BlackBox people have yet got the key programming procedure down to a marketable routine. I suspect in their shop, they can program them, but as far as we are concerned out here in the wilderness, key programming is still in the future. Even LR UK still fouls it up every so often.
I would think you can now try out for CSI however, and cutting the grass should be juniors primary task for at least a month or so prior to getting access to the key again, and certainly not until a second key appears.
As to your suggested do it yourself new key method, now that you have the luxury of time, it is probably worth the education in trying to beat the system so to speak. Many have tried, some have succeeded, and there is always the dealer to fall back on. As it is you need the dealer anyway.
I do not think even the BlackBox people have yet got the key programming procedure down to a marketable routine. I suspect in their shop, they can program them, but as far as we are concerned out here in the wilderness, key programming is still in the future. Even LR UK still fouls it up every so often.
I would think you can now try out for CSI however, and cutting the grass should be juniors primary task for at least a month or so prior to getting access to the key again, and certainly not until a second key appears.
#18
This not an attempt to hijack this thread but I have a related issue. While changing my key shell, I may have damaged the transponder circuit on the board. The remote will open and lock the doors. I tried starting the LR3 and all of the lights come on but it won't turn over. I put the "good" key next to the "bad" key and after repeated attempts it starts up. I then use the "bad" key without the "good" key in proximity and it starts. I try it again and no start. Then when I try the "good" key, it won't work either......My wife gave me "the look." I waited about 15 minutes, try again and it starts. What is up with the transponders? is there a shut down mode if a start is attempted with an unprogrammed key. thanks Phil
#19
"the look", I understand.
This is one for the experts I would say as I do not know if there is a shut down delay timer sort of thing when the 3 thinks it is being fooled with. It is just possible.
It may however be that when the computers get mixed up or do not know what to do, all has to go to sleep and some sort of reset "forget" thing happens and all is back to normal again.
I know these key immobilizer systems tend to send new "numbers" to the key fob with each start and the system is looking for some variation of those new numbers prior to a restart. It may be that the bad key can not hear the new numbers and I suppose respond appropriately, hence both keys are sort of not good for a bit - just a guess but that is kind of how the systems work - rolling code is I think the term used.
I expect others can explain better.
It may however be that when the computers get mixed up or do not know what to do, all has to go to sleep and some sort of reset "forget" thing happens and all is back to normal again.
I know these key immobilizer systems tend to send new "numbers" to the key fob with each start and the system is looking for some variation of those new numbers prior to a restart. It may be that the bad key can not hear the new numbers and I suppose respond appropriately, hence both keys are sort of not good for a bit - just a guess but that is kind of how the systems work - rolling code is I think the term used.
I expect others can explain better.