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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 01:36 AM
  #31  
abran's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ljdiscovery
I just had Abran get me one new key for the LR3 and one new key for the Range Rover Sport. He then programmed the keys to each of the trucks. While he was there, he recalibrated the suspension on the Range Rover Sport, it was sitting slightly lower on the right side. He also ran a scan on the right adaptive headlight on the RRS. I was very impressed. If you are in the So Cal area, give him a call, you will be glad that you did. Phil
thanks Phil!
 
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 12:10 PM
  #32  
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Hi,

I just wanted to share my experience with my key issues. I have Range Rover Sport, For months my key fob was wearing down and becoming very unreliable. I had a very big shock when getting quotes for a new key, I think the cheapest was Ł180 to replace. After some searching on the internet i came across this website. Keys2u Key Fob Repair Specialists
At first i was very sceptical but i bit the bullet, sent my key through the post. Within 48hrs and at a cost of around Ł40 my key was returned working like brand spanking new. Id never even heard of a service like this. Im so glad i stumbled across it. So maybe it may be of use to some of the members of this forum.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2018 | 09:18 PM
  #33  
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I know I'm reviving an old thread here, but it seemed better to add to this one rather than start new...

After reading through this it seemed like people were having success programming with the GapTool and it was worth the gamble. I bought an OEM "reflashed to virgin" key fob off eBay with a new case and blade. I finally got the key cut after it sat on the shelf for 3 months and am having trouble programming it with my BlueTooth GapTool. When I go though the process it says key failed, insert next key. After trying a few more attempts from scratch I took a short cut and removed and reinserted the key as if it were the "next key". The first 2 attempts the app says waiting for completion then failed to program. On the third reattempt the app goes beyond waiting for completion into programming key and then just hangs there. One thought I had was that the battery on the remote may be flat since it hasn't been charged for some time, or it just doesn't work... Am I out of luck because it's not a new remote?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 10:07 AM
  #34  
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I would almost wonder if it isn't just the battery being dead. I guess it could have been bad out of the gate, might be worth checking with the vendor on warranty.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 11:48 AM
  #35  
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It is my understanding that the remote would still code even with a dead battery, but thats just my guess based on the immobilizer chip still working with a dead battery.

I had had remotes unlocked and they have not worked. There are 2 different FCC id numbers on these remotes and they have to be unlocked based on that number, so they could have botched the unlock process.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 11:58 AM
  #36  
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Default elastic band key fob to good one

If you think the rechargeable battery in the key fob may be dead, since the charging system is effectively capacitive, one can elastic band the dead keyfob to a good one and then drive with the bad one tied to the good one in the ignition.

In a few days, the low battery just might be charged back up.

Also the purpose of the battery is to operate the door lock remote system and not really for starting; that is separate circuit, not battery related.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 02:27 PM
  #37  
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In the end you are always better off picking up your new to you keys from Abran just sayin.....
 
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 05:00 PM
  #38  
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I had two transponders that refused to program with the GAP tool. Had the eBay vendor send me two more and they worked the first time. Seems hit or miss. These were not OEM and had fresh batteries. Your reflashed ones may have a dead battery. Would be worth noting if the vendor soldered in a new battery.
Just transferred the already cut key blanks to the working transponders. Oddly, one will start the car, but not unlock it.....oh well, it's spare number two. Probably is a dead battery in that one as bbyer mentioned.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 07:00 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ArmyRover
In the end you are always better off picking up your new to you keys from Abran just sayin.....
Obviously...
 
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 10:40 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ArmyRover
I would almost wonder if it isn't just the battery being dead. I guess it could have been bad out of the gate, might be worth checking with the vendor on warranty.
I tried taping the new remote to the working one while driving to charge it, but it hasn’t helped yet.

Originally Posted by abran
It is my understanding that the remote would still code even with a dead battery, but thats just my guess based on the immobilizer chip still working with a dead battery.

I had had remotes unlocked and they have not worked. There are 2 different FCC id numbers on these remotes and they have to be unlocked based on that number, so they could have botched the unlock process.
When I had the key cut the locksmith asked if I bought the key online. He said the digits didn’t match when he scanned them, so I must have one of each. He said “I might have trouble” which I took as a nice way of saying “the key you bought online won’t work.”
 
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