Hey all,

I picked up a 2008 LR3 over the weekend with 138,000 miles. I have always loved the look and capability of the LR series (as well as the disco 2). I decided to trade my 2016 Hard Rock Rubicon, as 1) I don't drive for work anymore, only pleasure/errands, and 2) I was able to sell/trade it for more than I purchased it. I do all my own mechanical work, have built a number of cars both new and old, and run a small side business engineering and making custom automotive parts using 3D printing and (soon) CNC. So I felt comfortable moving into the relatively-reliability-ambiguous space of Land Rovers. I still offroad a few times a year, but do less rock-crawling than I used to, so I don't mind giving up a little extreme capability for way more comfort and utility.

I checked all the electronics on an extended test drive, ensured the air suspension functioned (though couldn't check for slow leak issues on the drive), listened for any LCA clunks, etc. All appeared well.

The exterior was in OK shape but needed some TLC, which I spent about 9 hours performing.

Here is how the hood, for example, looked before paint correction and after:

Before:


After:


After the hood I did the rest of the car. Check out the passenger door "before" photo for a clear view at what years of car washes do:


And after I fixed it all:


So what's next?

• I have ordered an IIDTool
• Rear seat heaters aren't working. The switches do not even come on. I'll check fuses first, but if anyone has tips . . .
• Windows now all work. Rears didn't, but I did a switch reset. The driver one-push up, one-push down doesn't work still. If I pull all the way up, the window stops going up. Not sure what to do about that yet.
• Hood and rear supports are getting replaced
• Will replace the coolant T as preventative (may do hoses too)
• Any other suggestions from the experts?

Thanks all, looking forward to learning more about the LR3 and you all!

Dylan
Elemental Garage

 

Well obviously a full fluid change is in order, unless you know they are fresh. Rear locking e-diff? Then you need a special fluid for carbon clutches. Never use green coolant. CHF-11S is ideal for power steering. Royal Purple is fine for front diff and transfer box.

Did you try to "reset" the one-touch on the driver window? Also if you pull all the way up when in motion, its suppose to stop. At least mine does. If I want auto-up, I have to press the switch up for just a half second.

Check for water leaks? Three are common. Exterior a-pillar trim, windshield cowl and sunroof drains. The drains can get so bad they rot and disintegrate allowing water to pour right into the cabin.

And thats a might nice rig! Looks sharp! Welcome to the forums!

 

No locking e-diff. Oil recently changed, coolant recently changed, though I haven't checked the color yet because the hood keeps falling on my head. That will be fixed tomorrow .

I'll do the diffs. Transmission fluid and filter were changed about 20k miles ago. I'll have to lookup a reset for the one-touch, didn't realize that was different.

I have looked for water leaks, and verified the sunroof drains aren't plugged and water evacuates outside instead of in the cab . It rains here in Oregon plenty, so if that does go it would be bad, but I'd likely know ASAP and could park it in the garage until it's fixed.

Thanks for the warm and helpful welcome.

 

There are four drains total, FYI. But I find the rears are usually okay. But just a heads up if you did not check them, I have a write-up on the forum for locating them.

Oh, another thing. The front diff has a breather that gets clogged. There was an update. The breather is located on the driver's side of the radiator. Black plastic tube. If it has a tiny little cap, best to replace. If it has a larger one at a 90 degree angle, its been updated. If not replaced you can end up with a leaking front diff.

 

Oh I forgot one thing that isn't working. The TPMS. Now it has aftermarket tires, so I'm not sure if there is an actual fault in the system, or if the previous owner simply didn't add the sensors to these new tires.

I do have a regular spare, not full size. Does that also run a TPMS sensor, or no? I'd like to get some LR sensors and remedy this. I hate dash lights .

 

How is it not working, just a constant on light? When the GAP tool arrives, it can tell you a lot more. Apparently you can also read all the pressures from each tire, but mine only showed 14.5 and I have not had time to check further into that. Anyway... If the stems are silver in color then there is a really good chance the sensors are installed. If they are black, then no way to be certain. I am not sure if the smaller spare has a sensor, the full certainly does. Also with the GAP tool you can disable TPMS altogether if you want.

 

When I start the car it just says TPMS Malfunction, and the TPMS light flashes, then just stays on as I drive. I'd like to have it functioning, so I'll look further into it.

I'll take a look at your write-up as well. I didn't realize it had 4 drains, but that makes sense. I'll also check the breather tube.

Cheers again!

 

Well Dakota beat me to everything I was going to tell you!

What part of Oregon are you located in? I am down at the Tillamook State Forest (wheelin') at least once a year....and usually I'm in Corvallis 6 times in the fall, but no PAC-12 football means that ain't happening this year.

What products did you use to correct the paint? Looks great....

 

Great looking vehicle. Great advice above. The only thing I'd add from experience is keep an eye on the coolant levels. My vehicle is a similar age and miles and I found that the thermostat housing had a very slight weep. I replaced that but then ended up replacing the whole assembly as the whole thing had broken down over time. If you have a black light available it's worth checking for coolant leaks one evening.