New member and a few questions
#21
01-09-2014, 06:15 AM
#22
01-09-2014, 06:41 AM
Thanks guys. I will call Thule this morning and see what's up and report back.
Let me continue with my PDC question. It was working fine (rear sensors) prior to me fiddling with the hitch. Since then, the light on the dash is flashing and the sensors are not sensing. I removed the hitch knowing it was in tow mode but the sensors do not revert back to working. Is there a switch or something in the hitch receiver area that triggers the sensors to be in tow mode? Maybe I jiggled something the wrong way.
Let me continue with my PDC question. It was working fine (rear sensors) prior to me fiddling with the hitch. Since then, the light on the dash is flashing and the sensors are not sensing. I removed the hitch knowing it was in tow mode but the sensors do not revert back to working. Is there a switch or something in the hitch receiver area that triggers the sensors to be in tow mode? Maybe I jiggled something the wrong way.
#24
01-11-2014, 01:22 AM
Thanks for the explanation re your efforts and the procedure to get the receiver out; I am much happier now.... you have now answered the question of how to get a frozen receiver out when it was locked in correctly and then left there for a few years to rust up; also why it is a good idea to remove the receiver when it is not in use.
LR designed it as removable was to avoid restricting ground clearance at the rear
Curt makes what I would call a conventional bolt on trailer hitch but it does cost you rear ground clearance and is there for the duration.
As to the safety chain hookup, those little holes always have looked a bit weak to me. On the other hand, the towing loop above would not be out of place on a Kenworth.
I was looking at some Reese branded safety chains in Canadian Tire yesterday and they included a threaded loop of "chain" to I gather fasten the chain to the vehicle. To me, the loop may as well have been an elastic band.
LR designed it as removable was to avoid restricting ground clearance at the rear
Curt makes what I would call a conventional bolt on trailer hitch but it does cost you rear ground clearance and is there for the duration.
As to the safety chain hookup, those little holes always have looked a bit weak to me. On the other hand, the towing loop above would not be out of place on a Kenworth.
I was looking at some Reese branded safety chains in Canadian Tire yesterday and they included a threaded loop of "chain" to I gather fasten the chain to the vehicle. To me, the loop may as well have been an elastic band.
I find that I do not need it very often at all, so all the mechanisms and paint can stay clean and dry inside the vehicle rather than dying like the spare tire winch.
The Curt hidden hitch has minimal decrease in clearance (departure angle), but it is still a reduction and adds weight.
The safety chain holes are better than most which are similar to the attached picture. I have seen these rip in half in a trailering mishap.
The 'add a link' IS weak and hard to fiddle with when it is covered in dirt. The holes provided are too small for good hooks like picture two, so picture three is our best bet (I think, in my opinion). The last picture is just insanity
#25
01-11-2014, 07:50 AM
Pro Wrench
insanity picture is what I was referring to
JPG #4 is what I was referring to - elastic bands for the "add a loop" was too kind a term, insanity is more correct.
I have the hooks per the third jpg, not the best, but OK for a ski doo trailer I figure.
The second jpg is what I would call the good ones and if hooked to the towing loop, nothing will be straying very far if the safety chain or how it is hooked to the trailer is adequate.
I have the hooks per the third jpg, not the best, but OK for a ski doo trailer I figure.
The second jpg is what I would call the good ones and if hooked to the towing loop, nothing will be straying very far if the safety chain or how it is hooked to the trailer is adequate.
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