I picked up a 2006 LR3 over the weekend and hopefully it serves me as well as the D1 & the D2 has. I am going to change the oil and diff fluid next weekend but have a quick question.

Can I just jack it up and put stands under it, or do I need to disconnect a fuse or something? The service reminder has not been reset since roughly 40K miles. How do I reset it?

In the D2, when I have the heat on Auto - It does not start blowing until the engine start to warm up... In the LR3, It starts blowing as soon as I start the engine... Even after it has sat 12 hours overnight... Is this normal?

When should I / When are people tuning these things up? It runs great but with almost 90K on it, it's probably due.

Per the carfax, while it was being serviced by the dealer, they was putting pads on it every 15k... Is this the normal? Hope they are still easy to replace.

Thanks for any information.

 

The brakes are pretty straight forward. I did mine last week. Here is a link to a website with all the info you need. Make sure you have a T50 and a 21mm open box.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Bodsy's Brake Bible/Bodsy's Brake Bible Version 1.6a - LATEST VERSION

 

Unfortunately you can't DIY the service reset I think until model year 08 on. There are a number of more LR specific OBD tools which can do that for you.

The disco3.co.uk site is a good reference for how to tips on their wiki. You do have to watch out for the air suspension deciding to raise a wheel if the computers think something funny is going on. I wouldn't go underneath unless the chassis was on jack stands. The generally accepted way to prevent the suspension from making you jump is to leave the drivers door open which should prevent the system from raising or lowering. If you're doing the diff fluids, do the transfer box too and get the revised front diff breather pipe valve from your local LR dealer. It's about $20, a two minute fix and might prevent pressure buildup forcing your front diff oil being forced out through a seal with the pain that would cause.

Welcome by the way :-)

 

Heater is working how it does, although I think it's strategy was changed with a software update somewhere along the way, but most places will charge you an hour labor to update it, and I am not 100% on it taking care of that.
With the tune up, Rover says plugs are good til 105k, but right around 90k is when you start to see performance drops with them. Replace the PCV when you replace the plugs. Also, with as much as these engines like to build up carbon, you'll see a big gain with a full induction/injection service, but a lot of people just clean the throttle body, which will drastically improve your idle if its 'gummed' up.
Brakes, well, yeah, about right, 15-25k depending on driving style is about average. Keep in mind, driving doesn't wear the brakes, stopping does.

 

Never get underneath the LR3 without first removing fuse: F26 in your engine bay. I learned that lesson the hard way, when it leveled itself while I was underneath it and came within only a few inches from my face!

I'm at 69k miles on my 2006. Last month, I put in new NGK plugs (gained 3 MPG believe it or not). I've changed front+rear diff fluids, along with the front diff breather tube. I cleaned out the MAF + throttle body, which also I felt a slight improvement in performance. This coming weekend, I'm going to replace the belts.

All the work I've done, I've taken pictures of, so if you need any help just start a thread and/or PM me.

With my front diff, I saw it was sweating pretty good along the entire seal. So, I put the new breather tube in and double-flushed the fluid. I cleaned off all the diff oil from the exterior and crossed my fingers. But, I just checked over the weekend and it's still sweating. So, take care of your front diff ASAP. Make sure to put the new style breather tube on it, too. The part number is LR019450.

 

er1c, with the belts, there is an updated idler pulley that should be replaced at the same time, it prevents the main belt from walking, and causing wear on the edges as well as chirping on cold start. The only problem with doing it on your own, would be if you need to grind the pulley to make it fit, sometimes they fit, sometimes they need to be modified. P/N for the pulley is PQR500350. This was also a service action, replaced if complained about, that may have been preformed previously.

 

roverguy7, excellent info. I'm going to be going to the LR parts shop this week. So, I'll be sure to add that to my list. It's only around $40. So, I'll order it just in-case it hasn't been changed on mine already. Many thanks.

 

If you pull the intake tube, you can look down and see if it has been changed. It's the pulley right above the alternator, on the RH lower side. If its flat, change it, if theres a 'lip' on the front, a guide for the belt essentially, it's been done, and you're fine.
The pulley was a running change at the end of the 07my, but I have seen some 08s without it, and some 07s with it from the factory.

 

MoShadeTree,

The LR3 manuals are a download in the link below. You have to dig around, but has wiring, shop, dealer training, owner manuals, promo things, etc. I have not found the electrical connector photos yet, but someone will slap some sense into me and then I'll see it.

 

Buzz -
Thanks for the link. I've had to look at it sooner than I thought. It's been raining hard here for a few days but today was the first day it sat in the rain without moving. Ran into the store, 15 mins later, jump in and pull off and a large amount of water started pouring out of the overhead lights and straight into the gear selector. It appears to be fine as long as it's not sitting. Any thoughts or quick fixes?