Hello all,
A first time post for me and I am looking for info on changing the Serpentine belts on a 2006 LR3 HSE. There are two on the HSE 4.4 litre engine. I have done belt replacements before on Xterra's Gen 1&2) GMs and etc. Is there any special techniques I can use to remove and replace the belts?.


Regards,


Dijansmith

 

I would suggest a review of the factory shop manual, full free download from the cloud in links below.

 

It's decently straight forward.

I strongly suggest replacing the idler pulley above the alternator with the updated style pulley, to prevent belt wear that causes a chirp on cold starts. P/N is PQR500350.

Keep in mind, the fan is LH thread.

 

I had one of the two belts changed about 18 months ago. I'm not sure why we didn't do both...are they both vital or is one "primary" and the other one used to run accessories like the AC or something along those lines?

 

The short one that is in front is solely the fan belt, and doesn't wear out as fast as the other due to only having three, large radius turns. The primary belt drives everything else, and is the one that is notorious for making a chirping noise, due to a poorly designed idler pulley, that has been updated. The idler pulley should be changed to the newer design when that belt is changed.

I usually recommend changing both at the same time, as the fan belt comes off in order to change the primary belt.

 

Great information guys... I will buy the pulley as well après' New Years. Happy New Years as well.


But now I have a new problem... My upper tail gate will not open. I press the button outside and the emergency master button lock procedure outlined in the book, but it will not open. any thoughts. Is there a mechanical release? If I keep trying to open the tailgate, but I hear the electric switch/motor get weaker and weaker by the sound of it. I can hear the electric motor trying to I need the hatch to open ASAP since the kids and I have X/C ski lessons next weekend.

 

So it is just the pulley itself that is replaced and not the whole spring idler arm bit?

I had read something about that but never really understood what the problem was - assumed it was something to do with the pulley bearing however.

Thanks for the heads up - I will do put a the new one on at my next oil change - later this month as it is.

 

The link below provides some insight into repair if the problem is that the lift gate release cable has broken.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod

The problem can also be that the hatch switch is corroded and signal is not getting to the computer to tell the release solenoid to power up. The fact that you hear clicking however suggests the switch is OK and the fault is a broken release cable - a common problem.

Actual repair is not that difficult, however the real problem is to get at the release mechanism and to do that, one has to get the upper door open to get the lower door open and hence into where the solenoid is.

Re the emergency "Push both buttons on the dash at the same time" procedure, this requires two people, (or very long arms), which the owners manual instructions do not mention. It takes one person to push both buttons and the second to be pulling up on the rear upper hatch. The release is not like a normal trunk lid that sort of pops open when a button is pushed. In this case, one has to be actually standing there pulling upwards prior to the button pushing.

There is a third possibility - the release software is mixed up and tomorrow, the upper hatch will release just fine. I think the vehicle has to sleep overnight to untangle the software, so to speak, and then next morning, all is well again.

No, there is no factory mechanical release; for that, you have to purchase the FFRR - the link is my attempt at emulating the Range Rover HSE.

 

If you can hear it actuate, you're looking at a cable failure.

The pulley is just an idler, not one of the tensioners, and even though it does come with a new bearing, and bolt even, these are not the issue you are fixing.

The updated design has raised edges, that prevent the belt from wearing out on the edges from it being able to 'walk' laterally as it turns.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ey-pics-60169/

 

Dave et al, how long could a person drive without the fan belt? Specifically, if they were driving in a very cold climate? I'm not planning on doing it, but curious if I were to have a ruptured fan belt in the middle of nowhere in 20-degree weather, could I run the heat (to draw coolant through the heater core) and also rely on natural convective cooling of the radiator, to get me to the next town?

Question sounds crazy, but it's not like this belt is running the water pump or the alternator or anything. I am going on a trip and will carry an extra belt, and may even buy the required tools...but I'm not sure I'd have the wherewithal to change the belt on the side of a highway in sub-freezing temps.

Thoughts?