Newby Posting RE: Serpentine belts for 2006 LR3 HSE
Since you have got the muff, go ahead and install it. It is just that if you have it all closed up and the weather turns nice, (above 0F), it should be opened up. The reality is that given the 3 is designed for Saudi Arabia, it should be pretty hard to overheat the thing. The important thing is not to put cardboard on the face of the radiator - that can restrict air flow too well.
Below is a link to the weather in Whitehorse. The temperatures you will see a Celsius. I note that day temperatures this week are about -20C, (-4F), and night, closer to -40C, (-40F). By March, it can be warmer; January is usually the time to be in Hawaii.
If you were driving all night and it is -40, then I would certainly have the muff closed up. I would however recommend that you not drive the roads up there in the night. Note that I did not say "in the dark" as it is dark there all the time - well it seems that way in the winter. When they say "Land of the Midnight Sun", that means in the summer.
Driving at night after about 8:00 pm, you will be lucky to even see a semi trailer unit on the road - there is just no where to go is the reason, unless it is heading south.
Whitehorse, YT - 7 Day Forecast - Environment Canada
It will be an adventure for you, one you will enjoy after the fact and remember for years to come. It is also very beautiful country when the sun is shining. I also expect the muff will remain open all thru BC as the temperatures can be sort of OK by March.
This link is for Prince George in the interior of BC. I expect you will be driving thru the town on your way north.
Prince George, BC - 7 Day Forecast - Environment Canada
Below is a link to the weather in Whitehorse. The temperatures you will see a Celsius. I note that day temperatures this week are about -20C, (-4F), and night, closer to -40C, (-40F). By March, it can be warmer; January is usually the time to be in Hawaii.
If you were driving all night and it is -40, then I would certainly have the muff closed up. I would however recommend that you not drive the roads up there in the night. Note that I did not say "in the dark" as it is dark there all the time - well it seems that way in the winter. When they say "Land of the Midnight Sun", that means in the summer.
Driving at night after about 8:00 pm, you will be lucky to even see a semi trailer unit on the road - there is just no where to go is the reason, unless it is heading south.
Whitehorse, YT - 7 Day Forecast - Environment Canada
It will be an adventure for you, one you will enjoy after the fact and remember for years to come. It is also very beautiful country when the sun is shining. I also expect the muff will remain open all thru BC as the temperatures can be sort of OK by March.
This link is for Prince George in the interior of BC. I expect you will be driving thru the town on your way north.
Prince George, BC - 7 Day Forecast - Environment Canada
I read through this thread. I never did see anything specific about changing the serpentine belt or the fan belt. Is there anything specific that should be done? I had an indy shop tell me that the fan had to come off for the belt to be changed. Is that true. I will check the service manual when I get home. Not much access to the belts, there isn't much extra space between the fan and the radiator and ac cooler. 2005 LR3 4.4 ltr HSE
thanks Phil
thanks Phil
This is a real good link re the belts.
How To: Change your engine belts
This is how to change the thermostat but the better idea I think is to replace the whole plastic housing LR part number LR005661 - you get a "free" thermostat properly installed plus all new plastic. If you are doing the belts and are thinking of replacing the thermostat, now is the time.
How To: Replace your Thermostat
How To: Change your engine belts
This is how to change the thermostat but the better idea I think is to replace the whole plastic housing LR part number LR005661 - you get a "free" thermostat properly installed plus all new plastic. If you are doing the belts and are thinking of replacing the thermostat, now is the time.
How To: Replace your Thermostat
Last edited by bbyer; Jan 17, 2017 at 07:04 PM. Reason: added thermostat stuff
I actually changed the thermostat housing a few months ago, unnecessarliy I might add. i had a slight coolant leak around the thermostat housing, I cleaned it several times trying to find the source. I finally just bought the new top section, o-ring and thermostat as I recall. In fact, the issue was a loose clamp. However, when I was working on it the t-fitting broke as I was bleeding the system.......if you are reading this, get a spare and put it in your glove box, it will break and if you have one on hand, it will save you a trip to the dealer or to the hardware store for a make shift replacement until the dealer part arrives......Phil
Yes, you are correct - that plastic bleeder tee gets brittle from the heat.
As such, I installed a new one and keep the removed on in my spare parts stock.
By the way, keep your old belts; also count the number of grooves in your new belts before you install them - you can get a wrong groove belt with the "right" part number.
The same story when you replace the alternator - count the number of grooves in the new pulley - it can be the correct diameter but the wrong number of grooves.
Bye the way, I am not smart; I just learned all this stuff the hard way.
As such, I installed a new one and keep the removed on in my spare parts stock.
By the way, keep your old belts; also count the number of grooves in your new belts before you install them - you can get a wrong groove belt with the "right" part number.
The same story when you replace the alternator - count the number of grooves in the new pulley - it can be the correct diameter but the wrong number of grooves.
Bye the way, I am not smart; I just learned all this stuff the hard way.
The link below provides some insight into repair if the problem is that the lift gate release cable has broken.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod
The problem can also be that the hatch switch is corroded and signal is not gettiItng to the computer to tell the release solenoid to power up. The fact that you hear clicking however suggests the switch is OK and the fault is a broken release cable - a common problem.
Actual repair is not that difficult, however the real problem is to get at the release mechanism and to do that, one has to get the upper door open to get the lower door open and hence into where the solenoid is.
Re the emergency "Push both buttons on the dash at the same time" procedure, this requires two people, (or very long arms), which the owners manual instructions do not mention. It takes one person to push both buttons and the second to be pulling up on the rear upper hatch. The release is not like a normal trunk lid that sort of pops open when a button is pushed. In this case, one has to be actually standing there pulling upwards prior to the button pushing.
There is a third possibility - the release software is mixed up and tomorrow, the upper hatch will release just fine. I think the vehicle has to sleep overnight to untangle the software, so to speak, and then next morning, all is well again.
No, there is no factory mechanical release; for that, you have to purchase the FFRR - the link is my attempt at emulating the Range Rover HSE.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod
The problem can also be that the hatch switch is corroded and signal is not gettiItng to the computer to tell the release solenoid to power up. The fact that you hear clicking however suggests the switch is OK and the fault is a broken release cable - a common problem.
Actual repair is not that difficult, however the real problem is to get at the release mechanism and to do that, one has to get the upper door open to get the lower door open and hence into where the solenoid is.
Re the emergency "Push both buttons on the dash at the same time" procedure, this requires two people, (or very long arms), which the owners manual instructions do not mention. It takes one person to push both buttons and the second to be pulling up on the rear upper hatch. The release is not like a normal trunk lid that sort of pops open when a button is pushed. In this case, one has to be actually standing there pulling upwards prior to the button pushing.
There is a third possibility - the release software is mixed up and tomorrow, the upper hatch will release just fine. I think the vehicle has to sleep overnight to untangle the software, so to speak, and then next morning, all is well again.
No, there is no factory mechanical release; for that, you have to purchase the FFRR - the link is my attempt at emulating the Range Rover HSE.
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