No heat for Driver
#1
No heat for Driver
Ok, I know we have talked about this first, but I am tired of waiting for my mechs to give me a solution that makes sense. After having my heater core replaced on my 3 (LHD), there is no heat for the driver now. I have tried a few solutions some have posted and nothing changes. She has a new battery as well. My thoughts are that something isn't working fully (obviously). Now I have been looking at the workshop manuals and is seems to me that a blend motor might be the reason, although I can't figure out why. It is pushing out air, just not hot air. It is a cheap part and looks fairly simply to change. Like I said, the drivers side get no hot air, but its gets air. The passenger side get hot air with the same force. Everything moves as its supposed to i.e. feet, face, and windscreen. And if I turn it to cold, it works. MIND BLOWING i know. What are your thoughts? Winter is months away but I don't want to fight a screen that is getting both hot and cold air. Kind of hard to defrost a window like that.
#2
Perhaps they need to follow the proper coolant filling and bleeding procedure and / or figure out which vacuum line they left disconnected. Are the folks that did the work familiar with the LR3, and if so, why are you having to figure out the problem, vs, them making it right and figuring it out?
It seems like there are coolant lines that run to that, and if it's got air in it, it would stand to reason it would not get hot. There are two lines running down the passenger side near the manifold, do they get hot?
The blend motor or fart mechanism is a known issue, it is possible it quit but I'm not sure if it would cause the problem or not.
thoughts?
It seems like there are coolant lines that run to that, and if it's got air in it, it would stand to reason it would not get hot. There are two lines running down the passenger side near the manifold, do they get hot?
The blend motor or fart mechanism is a known issue, it is possible it quit but I'm not sure if it would cause the problem or not.
thoughts?
#3
Complicated story there. In short I was to far away to drive my rover to an LR dealer because I was bleeding coolant into my floorboard, so I had another dealership swap out the heater core since it was an easy fix. I don't have my doubts that they didn't bleed the system properly but that is over an done now. So I will take a look at what you have suggested and see what I find. But on that note, it has been months now for this and I know they are a pain to burp but I am starting to doubt that its a bubble trapped in there.
#4
#5
#6
#7
Heater door self test reset procedure sort of ...
I doubt it is a thermostat and changing stuff is not that easy to my mind.
I think there is a blend air door inside that is not moving correctly. Cold air is going out one side and hot the other. It may be the recirculation door or the air blend door.
It may have to do with the fact that there are two temperature ***** on the control panel and an interior door mechanism inside to vary the air temp left side to right side a max of two degrees either way.
Self Test for door operation etc:
I don't think this tests for low Freon, but that is not your problem today but it is something to be concerned about as well.
With ignition off, press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car) but I do as you know that then there is sufficient voltage to properly operate the system computer.
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24432
Link to a number of heater / AC pdf's.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Heater Air Conditioner System
I think there is a blend air door inside that is not moving correctly. Cold air is going out one side and hot the other. It may be the recirculation door or the air blend door.
It may have to do with the fact that there are two temperature ***** on the control panel and an interior door mechanism inside to vary the air temp left side to right side a max of two degrees either way.
Self Test for door operation etc:
I don't think this tests for low Freon, but that is not your problem today but it is something to be concerned about as well.
With ignition off, press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car) but I do as you know that then there is sufficient voltage to properly operate the system computer.
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24432
Link to a number of heater / AC pdf's.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Heater Air Conditioner System
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