OEM vs Nissens Heater Core
#1
OEM vs Nissens Heater Core
Hello all,
I am in the process of replacing my heater core. I have the old core removed (not as bad as people tell you it is. Truly.) I have a question. The old care has two piece pipes connecting it to the cooling system, as seen in the first photo. As you can see there are clamps and o-rings holding the first length of pipe to the core body, then the second set of clamps and o-rings seen at the end of the pipe are to connect it to the cooling system lines coming from behind the dash. I have new o-rings and expected to be able to just replace those rings and attach the new core. My new core however looks like the second picture...one piece pipes. The only join is where the pipes attach to the body, and the flange is crimped around the base of the pipe. Also, this flange is weakly crimped, there is play in the joint and I worry it will leak.
Do I try and remove the new pipes from the new core and attach with the old pipes and new o-rings? If so, I worry that the extra material used to crimp on these pipes will get in the way of the clamps. Do I instead snake these new one piece pipes through the dash? What about the loose join at the body of the core?
For what its worth, this brand of core is used widely shops replacing them in LR3s. I just don't want to call the shop and ask since it was a $1200 job for them that I am doing myself.
I am in the process of replacing my heater core. I have the old core removed (not as bad as people tell you it is. Truly.) I have a question. The old care has two piece pipes connecting it to the cooling system, as seen in the first photo. As you can see there are clamps and o-rings holding the first length of pipe to the core body, then the second set of clamps and o-rings seen at the end of the pipe are to connect it to the cooling system lines coming from behind the dash. I have new o-rings and expected to be able to just replace those rings and attach the new core. My new core however looks like the second picture...one piece pipes. The only join is where the pipes attach to the body, and the flange is crimped around the base of the pipe. Also, this flange is weakly crimped, there is play in the joint and I worry it will leak.
Do I try and remove the new pipes from the new core and attach with the old pipes and new o-rings? If so, I worry that the extra material used to crimp on these pipes will get in the way of the clamps. Do I instead snake these new one piece pipes through the dash? What about the loose join at the body of the core?
For what its worth, this brand of core is used widely shops replacing them in LR3s. I just don't want to call the shop and ask since it was a $1200 job for them that I am doing myself.
#2
I opened up the one flange as seen below. The old short section of pipe doesnt fit properly in to the opened flange. It is marginally too large. My next idea is to take a small pipe cutter I have and cut the pipe and use a short section of rubber heater hose of the right inside diameter along with a thin coating of sealant and hose clamps to splice the old and new pipes together. Just that short section. Use the new pipe at the heater core and splice it to the pipe old section of pipe before the first joint. Anyone think that is a problem?
Aaron
Photo shows from left to right. New pipe attached to new core, new pipe, flange opened, old pipe.
Aaron
Photo shows from left to right. New pipe attached to new core, new pipe, flange opened, old pipe.
Last edited by delormea397; 09-06-2016 at 10:39 PM.
#3
Well, I'll happily document this for anyone in the future reading this.
Do your own heater core. It is easy. There are only reports online of people saying it is incredibly difficult and only the head engineer of LR himself should attempt it. Yes, it takes a bit of patience but it is not difficult. I followed the instructions from the workshop manual.
First, disassemble the centre console up to the point of having the fascia off (main plastic piece.) then remove the centre vent pieces and the radio/HVAC etc. This are simple screws and clips. I placed all the screws back in to the holes they came from. Remove the lower panel below passenger side glove box (a clip and two screws.) Follow workshop manual directions to remove the whole glovebox assembly. To remove it fully, the right panel on the radio/hvac panel needs to be loosened. There is one screw that may be missed but is mentioned in the manual in the passenger footwell. Remove this as well to ensure that panel is loosened. The whole goal is to get that right side of the centre out enough that the core can slide out. The "centre panel reinforcement" does not need to be removed fully as stated in the manual. You simply need to remove all the screws to loosen it up enough that the glovebox can slide out from behind it. This saves you taking out the entire centre console. With the glove box out you will see the pipes and the heater core. Loosen the clamps and screws and slide out the old core, keeping the footwell lined with a big garbage bag and a bucket to catch the coolant. The clamps used by LR are a pain to reattach to the flanges (I spent an hour trying to get one on properly and it still leaked.) So ditch the clamps, cut off the soft pipe with a proper pipe cutter and use 1/2" heater hose and hose clamps. I deburred all cuts and have no issues or leaks, much quicker and easier and less leak prone than o rings and brass clamps.
Reinstall and refill/bleed the coolant. Use purple loctite on all screws to prevent
them vibrating loose and causing squeaks and rattles. Take your time.
Indy shop wanted $1200. I did it for about $200 in parts.
Do your own heater core. It is easy. There are only reports online of people saying it is incredibly difficult and only the head engineer of LR himself should attempt it. Yes, it takes a bit of patience but it is not difficult. I followed the instructions from the workshop manual.
First, disassemble the centre console up to the point of having the fascia off (main plastic piece.) then remove the centre vent pieces and the radio/HVAC etc. This are simple screws and clips. I placed all the screws back in to the holes they came from. Remove the lower panel below passenger side glove box (a clip and two screws.) Follow workshop manual directions to remove the whole glovebox assembly. To remove it fully, the right panel on the radio/hvac panel needs to be loosened. There is one screw that may be missed but is mentioned in the manual in the passenger footwell. Remove this as well to ensure that panel is loosened. The whole goal is to get that right side of the centre out enough that the core can slide out. The "centre panel reinforcement" does not need to be removed fully as stated in the manual. You simply need to remove all the screws to loosen it up enough that the glovebox can slide out from behind it. This saves you taking out the entire centre console. With the glove box out you will see the pipes and the heater core. Loosen the clamps and screws and slide out the old core, keeping the footwell lined with a big garbage bag and a bucket to catch the coolant. The clamps used by LR are a pain to reattach to the flanges (I spent an hour trying to get one on properly and it still leaked.) So ditch the clamps, cut off the soft pipe with a proper pipe cutter and use 1/2" heater hose and hose clamps. I deburred all cuts and have no issues or leaks, much quicker and easier and less leak prone than o rings and brass clamps.
Reinstall and refill/bleed the coolant. Use purple loctite on all screws to prevent
them vibrating loose and causing squeaks and rattles. Take your time.
Indy shop wanted $1200. I did it for about $200 in parts.
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#4
Well, I'll happily document this for anyone in the future reading this.
Do your own heater core. It is easy. There are only reports online of people saying it is incredibly difficult and only the head engineer of LR himself should attempt it. Yes, it takes a bit of patience but it is not difficult. I followed the instructions from the workshop manual.
First, disassemble the centre console up to the point of having the fascia off (main plastic piece.) then remove the centre vent pieces and the radio/HVAC etc. This are simple screws and clips. I placed all the screws back in to the holes they came from. Remove the lower panel below passenger side glove box (a clip and two screws.) Follow workshop manual directions to remove the whole glovebox assembly. To remove it fully, the right panel on the radio/hvac panel needs to be loosened. There is one screw that may be missed but is mentioned in the manual in the passenger footwell. Remove this as well to ensure that panel is loosened. The whole goal is to get that right side of the centre out enough that the core can slide out. The "centre panel reinforcement" does not need to be removed fully as stated in the manual. You simply need to remove all the screws to loosen it up enough that the glovebox can slide out from behind it. This saves you taking out the entire centre console. With the glove box out you will see the pipes and the heater core. Loosen the clamps and screws and slide out the old core, keeping the footwell lined with a big garbage bag and a bucket to catch the coolant. The clamps used by LR are a pain to reattach to the flanges (I spent an hour trying to get one on properly and it still leaked.) So ditch the clamps, cut off the soft pipe with a proper pipe cutter and use 1/2" heater hose and hose clamps. I deburred all cuts and have no issues or leaks, much quicker and easier and less leak prone than o rings and brass clamps.
Reinstall and refill/bleed the coolant. Use purple loctite on all screws to prevent
them vibrating loose and causing squeaks and rattles. Take your time.
Indy shop wanted $1200. I did it for about $200 in parts.
Do your own heater core. It is easy. There are only reports online of people saying it is incredibly difficult and only the head engineer of LR himself should attempt it. Yes, it takes a bit of patience but it is not difficult. I followed the instructions from the workshop manual.
First, disassemble the centre console up to the point of having the fascia off (main plastic piece.) then remove the centre vent pieces and the radio/HVAC etc. This are simple screws and clips. I placed all the screws back in to the holes they came from. Remove the lower panel below passenger side glove box (a clip and two screws.) Follow workshop manual directions to remove the whole glovebox assembly. To remove it fully, the right panel on the radio/hvac panel needs to be loosened. There is one screw that may be missed but is mentioned in the manual in the passenger footwell. Remove this as well to ensure that panel is loosened. The whole goal is to get that right side of the centre out enough that the core can slide out. The "centre panel reinforcement" does not need to be removed fully as stated in the manual. You simply need to remove all the screws to loosen it up enough that the glovebox can slide out from behind it. This saves you taking out the entire centre console. With the glove box out you will see the pipes and the heater core. Loosen the clamps and screws and slide out the old core, keeping the footwell lined with a big garbage bag and a bucket to catch the coolant. The clamps used by LR are a pain to reattach to the flanges (I spent an hour trying to get one on properly and it still leaked.) So ditch the clamps, cut off the soft pipe with a proper pipe cutter and use 1/2" heater hose and hose clamps. I deburred all cuts and have no issues or leaks, much quicker and easier and less leak prone than o rings and brass clamps.
Reinstall and refill/bleed the coolant. Use purple loctite on all screws to prevent
them vibrating loose and causing squeaks and rattles. Take your time.
Indy shop wanted $1200. I did it for about $200 in parts.
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