Yep; my second 'real' job (after bussing tables) was changing oil at the local indy garage. Learned real quick that those gaskets are supposed to stay with the filter, not the vehicle! Also, rub a little oil on the gasket before install.

 

Bump for posterity

 

Always use a Motorcraft filter on the Ford 4.0. Its specially designed to work with Ford engines, I believe it was something to do with the location of the bypass in the filter. Not sure about a Land Rover dealer, but if you showed up at a Ford dealer complaining of engine issues and they saw anything but the correct Motorcraft filter you would void your warranty. The Motorcraft is a really well made filter and is fairly inexpensive. Not sure why it was so hard to get off, maybe the last person put it back on with the tool rather than hand tight...

 

Great write-ups and really appreciated the picture of the differential drain plugs. Mine looked the same with the sludge and fine metal particles which freaked me out until I saw yours too.
Has anyone attempted the pan and fluid change yet for the LR3 transmission? The ZF 6HP26 calls for the Lifeguard6. Seems like the right thing as ZF specs only that and I cannot find anything else meeting Shell M-1375.4 specs. Doesn't seem worth the risk to put the Redline DAF 4 in it to save $80.

 

I think I'm going to at least do a fluid change on the transmission. Not sure about the pan/filter after reading the shop manual, but would like to do that also. I'll add a write up when I do.

ETA: yes, lifeguard 6 is the correct fluid

 

Nice....appreciate this post!

 

Below is a link to some tranny info. There are files with regards to removal of the plastic pan etc as well as the refilling process.

While there are some tricks and shortcuts, removing and replacing the plastic filter/pan combo requires sort of lifting the engine a bit.

That however is the easy part. The refilling is the hard part as there is no dip stick. Too little oil, bad, too much, worse.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission in LR3

 

Thanks, I spent way to much time reading about centipoise and FMs and came to the conclusion of just spending the extra $80. So I've got everything together. Pan with filter and gasket, filler plug, and a case of Lifeguardfluid 6. Thanks to the CTSC and Rockauto for the good prices! One thing the dealer recommended to me was to also replace the mechatronic connector sleeve while I'm at it as they have found the sleeve is prone to leaking. For $11 it seems worth it. CTSC had the replacement procedure online.
http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/6_...eplacement.pdf
Thanks to bbyer for the extra documentation. I'll see how this goes next week!

 

Yes, I have read that the sleeve is a weak link and that replacement at the time the pan is removed is a smart move.

The trick to getting the old pan off is to "saw off" the vertical oil pipe once you have dropped the pan a bit. Since you have the new plastic pan, you can see what I am referring to.

You still have to lift the engine to get the new pan on, (vertical clearance for that pipe), but it can simplify the removal process.

There is a new rubber gasket at the top of the nipple - make certain the old one comes out.

The only other problem is how much oil to put in. Some shops use one of those infra red temperature scanners to determine tranny temp and hence oil temp. It is a bit of an art.

I think you were wise to pay for the official oil. Apparently not only does the LifeGuard6 contain Unobtainium, but also stardust from a proprietary star - well it seems that way, but who knows, so given the difficulty of the pan change, why add variables.

 

hi

i am having problem finding the front differential filler plug. i put my lr3 se v6 4.0l on ramp went underneath found the oil filter and drain, the differential drain plug but any pics that i compare either the ones you ahve posted or ones mentioned in the manual i am unable to find the front differential filler plug.