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Oil Change notes/pics (2006 LR3, 4.0L V6)

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Old May 11, 2013 | 10:03 PM
  #21  
bbyer's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Default Remove the fill plug first, then drain plug.

As below, the fill and drain plugs can be different sizes.

What I am saying is once you find them, make certain you have a correct wrench to do them up. Also remove the filler plug first before you remove the drain plug.

The front diff fill plug is hidden on the side sort of above that long round part that tend rearward. Do a search on some of the forums using front differential as search words or differential oil change for pictures.

Alternatively, look at the link below for an exploded view of the front differential. Item 36 is the fill plug; item 8, the drain.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu..._operation.pdf


Front and Rear Diff Plug Sizes

Front Diff:
Up to differential serial number 254845: Tighten the hexagonal drive, (8 mm hex), drain plug to 54 Nm (40 lb-ft).
From differential serial number 254836: Tighten the 3/8'' square drive drain plug to 28 Nm (21 lb-ft).

The Filler plug should be tightened to 34Nm (25 lb-ft).

Rear Diff
Up to differential serial number 254325: Tighten the hexagonal drive drain plug to 54 Nm (40 lb-ft).
From differential serial number 254326: Tighten the 3/8'' square drive drain plug to 28 Nm (21 lb-ft).

The Filler plug should be tightened to 34 Nm (25 lb-ft).


Transfer Case oil drain: (uses Special Transfer Box Oil, Shell TF 0753, (LRN0753) instead of XO Diff Oil). The Transfer box used 8mm hex head for both Drain and Fill.

Transfer Box Drain and Filler Plug should both be tightened to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).
 
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Old May 11, 2013 | 10:15 PM
  #22  
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Savannah Georgia
Default

perhaps these will help from the LR3 shop manual
 
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Old May 11, 2013 | 10:16 PM
  #23  
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From: Savannah Georgia
Default

perhaps these will help from the LR3 shop manual - has pictures
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 12:52 PM
  #24  
MoShadeTree's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: saint louis, mo
Default

I seem to have the famous transmission sleeve leak. Don't really understand why if I drive it every day, no spots in driveway, but if it sits for three days... she leaves a puddle. Anyway... I've read that if you use a metal replacement and filter, you do not need to left the motor. (1) Is this really true? (2) Where can I find a metal pan and filter?
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #25  
bbyer's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Default Metal pan, no more lifting.

The link below is to a number of files related to the ZF 6HP26X that is in your 3.

One of the files in the link has the ZF metal pan part number. In theory it can be ordered thru a ZF dealer but it is not that easy however. I assume you are in the States so I expect some others will post as to where they obtained their metal pan.

Yes, once the metal pan is on, then next filter change, you do not need to lift the engine - there is enough room to drop and slip the metal pan out so you can pull the separate oil filter off.

When you replace the pan, you replace the sleeve at that time as well.

There are Ford part numbers for a metal pan that fits just as well; however some of them do not contain an oil drain plug hole; the ZF part number does.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission in LR3
 
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