While doing an oil change on my LR3,
I have noticed some oil leak on the passenger side.

Oil was dripping down from around the area where the right arrow was pointing. I could not see where the leak was coming from, but the brown-colored block where the left arrow is pointing appears to be caked up in oil.

I wondered if anyone knows what needs to be addressed to solve this oil leak issue?

 

did you think it is engine oil?
or diff fluid and CV joint grease?

is your front diff breather the updated (larger) version?
no cracks/holes in your CV boots?

 

Judging from the color, it does not look like engine oil. I have not updated the front differential breather. I am not sure if the previous owner updated it. is there a simple way to visually tell the difference?
I did not find any cracks or holes in my CV boot, but I will have to take a closer look at it to confirm.

 

Old Breather:


Updated Breather LR019450:

 

Thanks for sharing!.
Mine is defiantly the old one
I am not sure if this will solve the leaking issue if the the leak has already started, but it does look like a simple upgrade!

 

It's so simple that even I could do it!

I did so, on my '06.

 

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/alb...structions.pdf

probably the only "how-to" that is even easier than removing the front grille LOL

You may hear a "hiss" when you cut the tube, if the diff was under pressure

 

Yeah... there is a chance there was a pressure build up which forced fluid out. But its also likely the output shaft seal is worn and leaking. Mine leaked there too. The seal itself is easy to replace and even easier if you have a ball joint kit - the ball joint kits often have large adapters and they fit the seal nicely making install easier as you tap it in. Removal of the old is stupid easy. The hard part is really just working your way to the point of being able to address the seals. That means disconnecting the knuckle at the upper control arm ball joint (careful when you tighten it back up, that upper ball joint stud is known to snap when over torqued) and you have to disconnect the tie-rod end. That gives enough room to remove the axle assembly and then remove it entirely. I can do it quick, but if you have not it may be an hour to open it all up. 30 minutes to figure out how easy it is to do the seal in 10 minutes, then an hour to button it all back up. You do NOT need to drain the diff first as the oil level is lower than the extension shaft. Important step! New seal is sold by a reputable company (not lucky 8, been there done that) will come with a red plastic insert that stays in place after the shaft is inserted back in. This is to prevent damaging the seal. Then you break away the plastic before finally inserting the shaft completely.

 

Hiss even when the engine is not running?

 

it's just a vent tube for the diff
more if a point of interest if it releases some pressure
it's not part of any engine function