It was whole or in part the intake manifold. I’m unsure if it was the 2 large metal seals or the 8 small rubber seals. I replaced them all plus EGR and TB seals just to be safe while I was in there but without a doubt, the intake manifold.

 

So, been down the same road as many have described, and still chasing the lean code gremlin; about to replace the resonator, as mine is definitely showing signs of wear and deterioration.

Despite the codes, the LR has been running fine, with no apparent issues, until recently. The truck starts with no problem when cold; runs and drives fine, even when (inevitably) throwing codes; however, it has started refusing to restart after it's been driven for some random period of time; it cranks, but won't start.. seems like a fuel issue. The most perplexing part of it is, after some period of time (i.e. 20 minutes to half an hour) it starts right up as if nothing was wrong. I am completely perplexed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Disco203
2006 LR3 HSE

 

Are you sure the no-start is related to your lean codes? Your new symptoms sound more like a failing fuel pump or even a failing alt/battery (not enough juice to prime the engine without some rest). Consider checking live values on fuel pressure, volts, etc with a gap tool or equivalent to compare with LR specs.

 

Kels83:
Thanks for the advice; I've suspected it might be the fuel pump, and will check live values accordingly; the battery/alt seem OK; battery newish, and voltage output at 14.2 as per my GAP tool. wondering if the lean codes might also be related to the fuel pump?

 

Is a non-mechanic, new LR3 owner I knew what I was getting into. This is my 5th LR but my knowledge of how to fix anything was very limited. So with my new to me 2007 LR3 started throwing off these two codes. I have no idea where to start. But thankfully, I found this thread! And now I think I'm lucky that I actually got these codes. The comments, thoughts and suggestions contained in this thread led me to numerous YouTube videos. And I have learned so much, so quickly!

With my limited funds, I decided to start with the potential problems that seem to cost the least! I work through the air filter, the PCV valve, cleaning the MAF sensor, cleaning the throttle body. And for me, even the simplest of tasks became hugely time-consuming! You'll probably laugh, but changing the PCV valve took me almost 3 hours . . . primarily in re-installing all the air inflow ductwork, resonator, etc.! And I've almost used a can of carb cleaner spray to try and find air leaks having my wife watch the RPMs! And I bought a new scanner, and I have learned quite a bit about LTFT and STFT . . . Things I've never even heard of before!

Yesterday, I installed a new MAF sensor suggested on this Forum and I am hopeful this was the problem. After driving about 70 miles . . . no Check Engine light! I know it's too early to declare victory but honestly, I'm proud of myself for what I've done so far. My LTFT and STFT numbers have improve (I think!) and I'm bugging my wife to watch for a new Check Engine light to appear! Maybe in a few more days I can declare victory of this problem! But I've got a lot of routine maintenance that needs to be done and now I'm trying to start slow and find maintenance that I can do and learn along the way. Thank you all!

 

THIS ⬆️

Is why we post. To help ourselves and more importantly, others who may find themselves in the same situation.

Thank you for letting us know. It’s more satisfying to me to have read your positive experience than to have fixed my original issue.

Well done sir.

 

I can't declare victory. Check Engine light is back. So the search for the real problem continues. Honestly . . . I'm a little bit happy! There are plenty of more things that have been mentioned in this thread that I feel like I can try myself. But eventually, I'm afraid I'm gonna have to pull out my wallet . . .

 

You'll get there! Nice work on all the effort so far. It can be a steep learning curve when you're new to it.

Just as a side note, instead of using a flammable liquid like carb cleaner to check for air leaks, a possibly safer option is to use a flow of (unlit) propane gas or a water spray. The water will often give you the change in engine speed that you're listening for if it gets pulled into an air leak - just make sure it's a trickle or a spray. You don't want to drown the intake or hydro lock the engine of course.
For propane, it's obviously still flammable and can still blow up in your face potentially, but at least it doesn't create pools of liquid that can continue to burn after the initial poof.
But really, try the water. No need for combustion outside the cylinders

The best leak checker is still a smoke machine. For diy use, theres no need to buy one unless you want to. There are plenty of youtube videos out there on how to rig up a $10 or $20 smoker that will do the job.

 

I will definitely try this! I've got to admit I was more than a little apprehensive about spraying the carb cleaner into a running engine!!

 

FYI, the carb cleaner I buy is non-flammable. Says so right on the can. Same for brake cleaner I buy. I tend to use starting fluid for vacuum leak checks because it has to be flammable.