Thanks for all the info.

I have the reseal kit from BA but I didn’t buy injector o-rings and the clips not knowing they needed to be replaced.

Will I need to do that? I don’t pan on servicing the injectors as they are about 3 years old. I don’t even know where to send them if I needed to.

The tstat housing was done 6 months ago so that’s solid.

Since my light and codes are going off more now for no reason I’m wondering if it’s worth messing with.

 

You won’t need the injector stuff if you don’t plan on pulling them. My injectors were original from 2005 so I had them cleaned. I found a guy locally that service’s injectors.

I would recommend getting a couple cans of Carb and Choke cleaner and spraying all around the engine and vacuum hoses. This was a very successful test for me finding a big vacuum leak.


My CEL comes and goes too. The computer isn’t lying… it’s just stupid sensitive. I hate problems and lights on the dash. So I work endlessly to try and rectify the problems.

 

droolyFace, I hope this helps your situation if you do decide to follow through. I think Coldwater's advice and experience he offered on the project is solid.

I owe this thread an update on mine. Maybe this helps, maybe not.

As mentioned, I joined this club on my new 06,164,000 miles. I focused my attention on the broken intake plastics thinking for sure this would be my problem, but it wasn't. My plastics were bad, but after installing a whole new air box and resonator tube (12/29/22), I had no change in fuel trims. My long-term, both banks, were running in the +12-15% range, mostly under load.

On 12/30/22, I tackled my water pump, thermostat housing, belts, VCT seals, oil filter housing gasket, and oil change. Plus, I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and replaced both the metal gasket between the throttle body and aluminum intake elbow,and the silicone gasket between the aluminum elbow and plastic manifold in hopes that one of these gaskets would improve my fuel trims. Still no help.

I have not done a smoke test. I probably should. I individually pulled vacuum with a hand pump on each tube, PCV, brake booster, etc. and all held fine. While idling, I would watch long and short fuel trims, and mess around with fittings, spray propane around, spray brake cleaner, etc. and every so often, I would see the Short Terms go rich (negative numbers).thinking I found my problem. But then I could never repeat it. It seemed to have a mind of its own.

Then I thought the evap purge valve could be cycling causing the temporary rich response. So I pulled the purge tube off of the aluminum elbow and covered the nipple with a vacuum cap. My thought was to isolate the evap purge system from the fuel injection calculations. To my surprise, my fuel trims began responding much tighter, and my short terms were pushing negative, effectively balancing my long term. Weird, since I never had any evap codes, just lean 1&2. I hand pumped a vacuum on the purge tube to see if the purge valve was seeping while closed (key off). It was not, vacuum was tight and held. Plus, I would expect a leaking purge valve to trigger rich codes, not lean codes.

Since then, in the 4th day now of daily driving (75 miles so far) without the purge tube connected, I have good (not perfect) fuel trims, no lean codes, in exchange for an expected evap code (P0441 Evap System Incorrect Purge Flow). I'm not sure why, but I think I have what Dakota fixed by swapping the fuel tank. LR3 Lean codes, both banks - need advice - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum.

 

Awesome advice guys, thank you!

Will be diving into it tomorrow. I’m assuming I can pull the manifold independently of the injectors based on your feedback which is my plan.

While not looking at the engine, I can’t visualize the evap tube you are referencing. Happen to have a picture handy?

 

Circled in red.

 

Thanks man! I’ll try that also and report back. First it’s the overhaul and reseal then that.

Do you happen to have the directions from the shop manual that covered removing the intake manifold?

 

I didn’t remove the manifold, just the aluminum elbow to access the backside of the thermostat housing.

 

The book is available here: lr3 service manual - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum.
It's in the Sticky Tech Section

 

Yep, except the part about the intake manifold removal. That is there but a duplicated index on both places. Was hoping for some other links.

 

Here's the whole 4.4L fuel section. The manifold specific removal starts on page 19.