P2096 Lean on Bank 1
#22
11-09-2018, 03:47 PM
OK, now we may be onto something! So I have it completely disassembled up to the plastic manifold. It honestly looked OK, but I may try to reassemble with some gasket maker/sealer with the existing parts and let that set up and see what happens...it has to be something in there. One thing that I've been thinking about is whether, if by any chance, the electric motor for the throttle butterfly could get out of whack. I say that because I also cleaned up the carbon around the butterfly and likely manually opened it up which caused the motor to turn. It did reset to the closed position but I still wonder about that for some reason, like maybe I screwed up the calibration of it somehow.
When I look at my freeze frame data, the absolute throttle position read 14% but the RPMs read 670. The RPMs seem like idle, but why would the throttle position be anything but 0 at idle? It may just be that I don't understand that enough obviously,
Either way - the coincidence about that whole plastic thermostat housing is waay too much. The problem has to be around there.
When I look at my freeze frame data, the absolute throttle position read 14% but the RPMs read 670. The RPMs seem like idle, but why would the throttle position be anything but 0 at idle? It may just be that I don't understand that enough obviously,
Either way - the coincidence about that whole plastic thermostat housing is waay too much. The problem has to be around there.
#23
11-09-2018, 04:13 PM
At some point I read a post about P2096 which stated that faulty coolant temperature sensor could be the cause. I did buy cheap thermostat housing assembly off the EBay and that included coolant temp sensor. I went ahead and ordered another sensor (aftermarket), put that one in but still getting code so I don’t think it’s that, have to look for air leaks. I have disassembled throttle body, cleaned it and carefully reassembled it back with no luck. Once again as you said has to be something somewhere in that area. Glad you mentioned it. Truck runs just fine, no flactuation at all, very steady at idle, driving it daily. I really want to get to the bottom of this. Mine is 2008 V8 with 210k miles, love the truck but very annoyed by CEL
#24
11-12-2018, 09:17 AM
Update after a couple of items over the weekend:
1. I resealed the throttle body both at the plastic manifold and the sandwich'd steel gasket and took it for a run - same code. So that wasn't it
2. Next day I went ahead and replaced the MAF. The previous owner had run a KN air filter and I'm not a fan of them due to their ability to coat the MAF with oil if the filter was over-oiled. The result - no change, same code.
After each work item, it takes 2 drives to get the code to be thrown. The first to set the pending code and the second to actually set it to an active code. As soon as the truck goes into closed-loop is when it sets. So, it's consistent as hell.
Next steps: Test the EGR motor for resistance and then possibly buy new intake manifold gaskets. Even though I haven't removed the manifold, maybe during all of the jostling around removing the throttle body when replacing the thermostat housing, it got a shove. I would have thought the smoke test would have pointed the finger but the leak could be in the valley...I also may still swap the injectors from one side to the other to see if there is a weak injector in the mix..
vetalbig: If you and your buddy have the chance to swap parts, I would really be interested to see if you could swap the trottle body butterfly from his to your WITHOUT moving the butterfly at all. I still wonder about if the calibration is off. This could be a complete red-herring but that one keeps me up at night.
As usual, any thoughts are appreciated!
1. I resealed the throttle body both at the plastic manifold and the sandwich'd steel gasket and took it for a run - same code. So that wasn't it
2. Next day I went ahead and replaced the MAF. The previous owner had run a KN air filter and I'm not a fan of them due to their ability to coat the MAF with oil if the filter was over-oiled. The result - no change, same code.
After each work item, it takes 2 drives to get the code to be thrown. The first to set the pending code and the second to actually set it to an active code. As soon as the truck goes into closed-loop is when it sets. So, it's consistent as hell.
Next steps: Test the EGR motor for resistance and then possibly buy new intake manifold gaskets. Even though I haven't removed the manifold, maybe during all of the jostling around removing the throttle body when replacing the thermostat housing, it got a shove. I would have thought the smoke test would have pointed the finger but the leak could be in the valley...I also may still swap the injectors from one side to the other to see if there is a weak injector in the mix..
vetalbig: If you and your buddy have the chance to swap parts, I would really be interested to see if you could swap the trottle body butterfly from his to your WITHOUT moving the butterfly at all. I still wonder about if the calibration is off. This could be a complete red-herring but that one keeps me up at night.
As usual, any thoughts are appreciated!
#25
11-13-2018, 05:38 AM
Update after a couple of items over the weekend:
1. I resealed the throttle body both at the plastic manifold and the sandwich'd steel gasket and took it for a run - same code. So that wasn't it
2. Next day I went ahead and replaced the MAF. The previous owner had run a KN air filter and I'm not a fan of them due to their ability to coat the MAF with oil if the filter was over-oiled. The result - no change, same code.
After each work item, it takes 2 drives to get the code to be thrown. The first to set the pending code and the second to actually set it to an active code. As soon as the truck goes into closed-loop is when it sets. So, it's consistent as hell.
Next steps: Test the EGR motor for resistance and then possibly buy new intake manifold gaskets. Even though I haven't removed the manifold, maybe during all of the jostling around removing the throttle body when replacing the thermostat housing, it got a shove. I would have thought the smoke test would have pointed the finger but the leak could be in the valley...I also may still swap the injectors from one side to the other to see if there is a weak injector in the mix..
vetalbig: If you and your buddy have the chance to swap parts, I would really be interested to see if you could swap the trottle body butterfly from his to your WITHOUT moving the butterfly at all. I still wonder about if the calibration is off. This could be a complete red-herring but that one keeps me up at night.
As usual, any thoughts are appreciated!
1. I resealed the throttle body both at the plastic manifold and the sandwich'd steel gasket and took it for a run - same code. So that wasn't it
2. Next day I went ahead and replaced the MAF. The previous owner had run a KN air filter and I'm not a fan of them due to their ability to coat the MAF with oil if the filter was over-oiled. The result - no change, same code.
After each work item, it takes 2 drives to get the code to be thrown. The first to set the pending code and the second to actually set it to an active code. As soon as the truck goes into closed-loop is when it sets. So, it's consistent as hell.
Next steps: Test the EGR motor for resistance and then possibly buy new intake manifold gaskets. Even though I haven't removed the manifold, maybe during all of the jostling around removing the throttle body when replacing the thermostat housing, it got a shove. I would have thought the smoke test would have pointed the finger but the leak could be in the valley...I also may still swap the injectors from one side to the other to see if there is a weak injector in the mix..
vetalbig: If you and your buddy have the chance to swap parts, I would really be interested to see if you could swap the trottle body butterfly from his to your WITHOUT moving the butterfly at all. I still wonder about if the calibration is off. This could be a complete red-herring but that one keeps me up at night.
As usual, any thoughts are appreciated!
#26
11-18-2018, 10:47 AM
Update
Just a little update. I’ve got injector cleaning system that I purchased a while back but never got to use it, so I tapped into fuel line directly and ran 50/50 seafoam/gasoline under 35 psi shop air pressure. What bothers me is that engine stalled on me few times while running cleaner through, the instruction video that I watched on YouTube showed LR3 being treated with identical injector cleaner and it ran smooth without stalling period so something has to be out of wack, I’m thinking something to do with air intake (possibly throttle body), i also got message low power mode while multiple stall outs. Reassembled everything, car runs fine again.
Another thing that was on my check list is purge valve, on another forum I saw a bulletin about faulty purge valve being stuck open supplying excessive air into throttle body. I unplugged purge valve from throttle body, plugged it off and drove car around. Code came back on 2 nd cycle as expected killing my hope again.
I think at this point it might be a good idea to try that throttle body swap without moving the bitterly flap.
Another thing that was on my check list is purge valve, on another forum I saw a bulletin about faulty purge valve being stuck open supplying excessive air into throttle body. I unplugged purge valve from throttle body, plugged it off and drove car around. Code came back on 2 nd cycle as expected killing my hope again.
I think at this point it might be a good idea to try that throttle body swap without moving the bitterly flap.
#27
11-18-2018, 03:58 PM
#28
11-20-2018, 06:27 AM
#29
11-20-2018, 08:14 AM
I did suspect pcv too, replaced with new unit but still heard a little hissing coming from it, what I did next was i took pcv out and plugged it off nicely with wine cork and ran truck for 2 min until code returned. I have icarsoft code reader ordered so I will be able to monitor fuel trims and o2 voltage closely now. Hopefully I can see something of order there that might point me to right direction
#30
11-21-2018, 02:16 PM