Please don’t hate on me… air ride advice.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,245
Likes: 482
From: North of Seattle
I don't know what you mean by saying they are all in England. We may be talking past each other. The IIDTool is made by GAP Diagnostics and is made for a specific model. It's certainly not cheap, but it's worth it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11424604264...hoCLogQAvD_BwE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11424604264...hoCLogQAvD_BwE
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 37
Likes: 2
I don’t know why my phone started inserting those weird signals but I looked up the LLD scanner and it showed a bunch of them for sale over in England. But I didn’t do a eBay surgery anything this one is 525 bucks I’m pretty certain he’s going to not buy it lol but I’m going to send him the link. The ones I saw in England were 250 pounds which is around 380 to 400 bucks depending on exchange rate I guess.
Knowing him, he will search for a cheaper one somewhere
Knowing him, he will search for a cheaper one somewhere
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 37
Likes: 2
What do you guys think about this scan tool? Will it perform the same job as that $500 one that you sent the link to?
https://a.co/d/irlxV2W
https://a.co/d/irlxV2W
Last edited by Koolminx; Jan 2, 2023 at 05:40 PM.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 256
Likes: 76
From: Seattle
The Autel AP200 is supposed to be a good option per the Disco3.co.uk forums. I’ve not used it and the GAP IID is the most popular here. If buying the Gap used budget $50 to transfer the license to your vehicle.
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 37
Likes: 2
I’ll send that info to my buddy! Thank you guys, this saves me a ton of time I’ll never get paid for cause my buddy is broke like me. 🤣🤣
when he gets the codes I’ll post them here if the cure isn’t immediately a stand out issue.
if it is I’ll post the solution 😎😎
when he gets the codes I’ll post them here if the cure isn’t immediately a stand out issue.
if it is I’ll post the solution 😎😎
Baja
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 5,079
Likes: 980
From: Green Bay, WI
Not really. The system will use stored reservoir pressure, initially, but gallery pressure is monitored and as soon as it drops below a threshold (I think 150psi?) the system closes the reservoir valve because it is inferring that it is empty. And this is why one the truck is at height the compressor will run for a while - to refill just the reservoir to 250psi.
Baja
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 5,079
Likes: 980
From: Green Bay, WI
Number 5 and number 3 in this schematic have been replaced.
the front block just under year ago, the suspension began working normal after that. Then just recently it stopped again.
teying to get a good timeline of everything he did in a row is difficult.
today part 3 was replaced.
no change in pump reaction.
not replaced is #5 and it’s specific location is unknown by me. That’s the only part listed with a pressure sensor. Perhaps it trips because it’s bad and shuts off pump before the pressure is enough to lift the rear.
the reservoir does not leak. I also could not find any compromised o rings or seals.
repeated shutting off and starting to get a total of a few minutes of pump run time does nothing.
this schematic does not list the part bolted dead center over third member, so I cannot research it’s purpose.
I’ve used search function here and on goodie to poor results.
the codes present as of now are listed above in the picture I. My earlier post.
the front block just under year ago, the suspension began working normal after that. Then just recently it stopped again.
teying to get a good timeline of everything he did in a row is difficult.
today part 3 was replaced.
no change in pump reaction.
not replaced is #5 and it’s specific location is unknown by me. That’s the only part listed with a pressure sensor. Perhaps it trips because it’s bad and shuts off pump before the pressure is enough to lift the rear.
the reservoir does not leak. I also could not find any compromised o rings or seals.
repeated shutting off and starting to get a total of a few minutes of pump run time does nothing.
this schematic does not list the part bolted dead center over third member, so I cannot research it’s purpose.
I’ve used search function here and on goodie to poor results.
the codes present as of now are listed above in the picture I. My earlier post.
Also, just to be sure. The front and rear valve blocks, 3 is front and 5 is rear, may look alike but are not interchangeable. Number 4 is the center valve block and ONLY monitors pressure of the gallery and regulates reservoir pressure. It does not control any air from front to rear, etc.
Baja
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 5,079
Likes: 980
From: Green Bay, WI
If you have a shop compressor, you can get some push connects (6mm) with a schrader valve and manually try to inflate the rear and see what happens. 1/4" can work too but its not the same as 6mm... To do so you would want to locate the rear feeder line from the center valve block. Center valve block is within the plastic housing of the compressor, just forward of it. Two lines head back from it to the rear, one goes to the compressor so not that one.
