Both of mine were completely shot. I know I'll end up back in there sooner or later

 

Well, then maybe I don't feel like I wasted my money - at least they were the easiest to replace.

So overnight, the clamp I used to keep the brake fluid from leaking out that worked so well on the drivers side didn't work on the pass side. Brake fluid leaked all over. Hope it didn't ruin my nice paint job on the lower control arm. Ugh.

 

Everything wrapped up pretty well. It's in today getting the alignment and brake fluid flush.

I will say that so far it is too harsh for my liking. I will report back after I have put some time and miles on it, but so far it is certainly more firm than the stock bushings. I spent the last 4 or 5 days driving it around on short trips.

 

Well, they couldn't quite get the alignment sorted on Monday. The rear is good to go, but all 4 front camber adjustment bolts were frozen, and the camber was out more than 1 degree past the limit.

Shop said all 8 bushings and all 4 ball joints are good in the front. Good news is they told me if I return within 30 days with working adjustment bolts they will realign for free. So, I ordered the hardware for the front lower control arms as well as an air hammer and bits so I can attempt to sort things out up front. I will at least replace the front lower rear bushings while I am in there as long as the ball joint comes out without too much grief.

BTW, the ride seems to have softened up, but it is still more harsh than before. You can tell the difference between the front and the back, even when seated in the front. Most importantly, it is no longer wayward on slick pavement. It's stability has returned.

Wish me luck.

 

Good luck an air hammer may do the trick if they are not to badly rusted

 

Thanks.

I was able to thermal shock the rear ones then get them to turn with a wrench and length of pipe. They still wouldn't back out, so I had to cut one end, but these lowers up front seem to have access for the air hammer, so if I can get them to turn, I can get them out without cutting. We will see...

 

So I have all of the front lower bolts loose except 1. Front was much better than the rear. Didn't have to use any heat at all. The last one will turn but I can't get a socket on the nut. It's the drivers side rear, and the clearance to the catalytic converter doesn't allow me to get a deep socket on it. Also the frame bracket prevents a box end wrench, and with the bolt sticking through, it's one of those rare cases that a deep socket is too long and a short one is too short. But I will get it sorted today.
just waiting for my hardware to take the long weekend/holiday delivery to my door.
I will use the air hammer to push the bolts through. They all turn in the sleeve. And I am going to try it to loosen the ball joint from the knuckle with a flat bit on the flush stud and nut. I've not tried this before, but am hopeful as getting ball joints loose without damage doesn't usually go well for me.

 

It just snowballs of course, but so far having good luck. Got the lower out on the drivers side. Unfortunately the front bushing is starting to go. Looks worse than the rear, so I decided to peek at the uppers. Got all the upper bolts loose, even the upper front without too much trouble. Once the hardware arrives I will reassemble the lower and see how the upper looks. If both bushings look good I might just clean and reinstall with new hardware and anti-seize to save my sanity in the future.
BTW, my mini sledge worked better on the balljoints than the air hammer did. But the air hammer was perfect for the rear lower bolt. It was very rusty inside the sleeve.

 

Be careful with heating the left rear upper rear bolts. There are air lines that run to the rear valve block that can melt (don't ask how I know). I would stay with the air hammer or sawzall for the left rear upper bolts.

Jeff

 

Thank you for the tip. I did have to heat that bolt. I saw the pipe and used many layers of aluminium foil in front and was careful with the angle of the torch. No troubles. Couldn't get the air hammer in there, so had to cut one side of that bolt even with the nut removed.