I think that depends on if they consider that the suspension pushes the truck away from the frame, or the frame away from the truck .

 

Well, not an issue with stock tires. Hell, the system can "100% deflate to bumps and there is no rubbing. With my 275/65/18 I get some rubbing on stops but can move. Any larger, forget it.

 

I am probably repeating some points here.

As explained, there are two methods to lifting.

Rods are the mechanical means. The cheap way and very effective. Also easy to remove/add as needed but of course there is some risk to possibly breaking a sensor arm off, etc. Robust, but not meant for constant molestation. Where rods fail is they push the sensors out of range. So if you do end up on stops and repair/clear faults as needed. You will not get back up, period. You have to jack the front and rear of the truck up a little so the sensors are back in range. Then the system no longer sees four broken sensors and will pump up the rest of the way. Same issue happens during tire drop or extreme articulation. And what can happen is a total system fault if you exceed the limit on sensor faults. Because again you are pushing the sensors too far and eventually the EAS says "hey... something is not right here...". You end up with cross articulation faults and for sensor faults. Can easily clear, just annoying if there are enough for it to drop to the bump stops.

GAP is the ideal method. But there is no one to one value in adjustments. Meaning if you recalibrate for 2" lift that does not mean off-road is 2" more or super extended is 2" more. Also does not mean that access height is 2" higher than with a stock calibration. There is a bit a curve and what a stock height adjustment does is sorta move the middle high point. But the absolute top height value is of course still the same. So lets say that the scale is 1 to 100 and standard height is 50. And your two inch increase means the new standard value is 75. Off road is half way between standard and max. So it was 75 but now is it 87.5, not the same +25 as standard. So 2" stand height will probably give you 1.5" more in off-road and 1" more in super extended. Does that made sense? I actually had to verify this with a couple LR3s to test this theory. And my examples/numbers here are just sloppy math examples. BUT the rods, they do not have this "issue" since they are mechanical. So 2" lift is across all heights.

So in the end I say ditch the rods, get a GAP tool. Only because the rods can cause issues in certain situations that people have experienced. If you are aware of this issue, then you just have to be prepared to deal with it. I had a buddy slammed on the side of a road because of his rods and the truck refused to lift. I came with bottle jacks and we got it back up and going. With it slammed and with large tires, no way to reach the rods. I think it was a compressor issue the triggered the mess, I forget. But the GAP tool, you can go full mechanical range of the suspension and not worry about the sensors going out of range.

I will also add the obvious. If you r suspension parts are old and worn, you will make sure they are end of lift a lot quicker with a lift. Bushings have a "home" position when installed properly. This is why suspension parts are not torque to final values until the suspension is settled at normal height. Take an upper control arm for example. Torque it down with it dropped and one will notice it will have resistance when lifted up. Because it wants to stay dropped down. And if you force it, then that busing will always be twisted which causes premature failure. So I always preach that when doing hight adjustments be prepared to replace the suspension components soon OR loosen everything up, things way beyond what an alignment will loosen, to get all the bushing re-homed.

And speaking of alignments. The LR3 really seems to hate bad ones. So if you are changing heights a lot, you will affect handling more than some other vehicles. And your tires will wear badly. Best to set a new road hight and keep it that way. Or only change your ride height when off-roading. But I would not plan one hight for every day driving, then another for long cross country travels. I myself am 2" above stock I think... the more I say that the more I think I may went 1.5" just to keep CVs from getting abused..... hmmm... Anyway, I installed all new suspension hardware and set my nights then along with a fresh suspension calibration to match. And I keep it there all the time besides using the EAS controls for access when crawling under a fallen tree or off-road for the other fun stuff.

 

This is a great breakdown, thank you.

Since I have the Gap IID (w/spare key from Lucky 8) it makes me think that once I get back home with the rig, maybe I'll run it with them in place over the summer to feel them out since they're already on there, but reading your comment makes me think it likely is just a better move to replace them with OG rods as an easy project when I get around to it this summer, with an alignment too of course.

Cheers.

 

Alignment only needed if changing height. So if you pull the rods and readjust to same height with GAP, then you don't have to do an alignment. Also I check, my lift is 1.5". I feel this is a safe daily height increase that reduces risk of CV wear and handling issues.

 

Can anyone please give me a safe maximum value to put in GAP tool for rising height for offroad?

 

I'm not the expert here but, your question is sort of impossible to answer as-is. Technically you can just go as high as the tool will allow - easy peasy.

But like, you don't want to just keep it at maximum height for no reason either so, what your definition of "off road" is might be different than others. For me it means fire roads and sometimes rutted out logging roads at 2-25mph which, 90% of the time I would lift a bit for security but don't really need to be fully extended unless I come to a gnarly rut. Florida isn't Arizona isn't Montana - the terrain is all different. So the answer to your questions is: Yes. And also, it depends.

 

I haven't created a saved height setting in quite some time....is there still a range up to 255 or something, that you can go up to? If so, I'd say go up to 253 or mayyyybe 254. I'll call that a "safe max" setting where the intent is to avoid out-of-range faults if the LR3 goes into Extended Height. You may want to experiment though, because they are all kind of different. I'd set it at 254, then lower it onto a cinder block or jack stand such that it will think it's high-centered and lift itself up. If it doesn't throw a fault, you're good. If it does, adjust it down to 253 and repeat the process.

Oh, and don't try going into "Super-Extended Height." That is for sure going to take you out of range.

Hope that helps.

 

The tool will not allow you to set a range past the limits programmed in. Meaning you can set to whatever max may be for your Rover, but the GAP tool will not allow it to go to its true max limit because room must be left for off-road, extended, super extended. The tool knows this. Besides, it looks like its all based on a range anyway and all you are doing is moving the center point. So stock you may go up 2" in off-road. But if you raise your truck 1" above stock and set the calibration there, you will gain only 1.5" going to off-road.