You can have damaged wires with no apparent issue. Any junction/splice must be re-done to be certain.

 

check the fuses, then check the connections at the door, the window switch, wiring plugs inside the door, etc.

Try the easier stuff first, if it is wiring damage, eliminate the other things first.

 

honestly, fuses are what 5 cents a piece, I'd change them out for fresh ones just to be sure

 

Did you say BOTH rear windows stopped working?

Could make a difference as to where to look.

I just looked at section 501 of the wire diagram page 217. The only common item I see off hand for both rear windows is the "switch-idolater" S236 which is located in the "Switch-Window-Driver-Door" S344

In plain english- that is the rear window locking toggle switch on the drivers door switch pack. I would start there.

Jeff

 

Trying to revive a dead thread instead of creating a new one.

I have same issue - both rear windows dead.



I've replaced the master window switch with new unit

I've looked around wiring in right side footwell for obvious signs of corrosion but saw none.

I'm getting a ground/open fault from gap tool. But I have no idea where to go from here.

 

Have the same issue, rear windows worked intermittently then stopped.......
[1] The drains were clogged, there was some water on both sides (driver and passenger), blew out with compressed air...they now drain.
[2] Replaced the drivers switch...no help
[3] No power to rear switches.....motors work(applied voltage to get them to go up)
[4] Read a post which had a bypass for a FET on the CJB..implemented that...now power to grey/yellow wire to rear switches...still no windows!
[5] have opened up the rocker channel to look at wires....no splices can be seen...nothing obvious.....
[6] Question...which other wires should have power on those rear switches?
[7] Have ordered a rear switch...but I doubt its the swtiches....

 

Sorry for the long thread, but you did ask about which wires do what.

Reviewing section 501-11 page 216 of the wiring diagram.
Lets start at the battery. You have a red wire that runs from the battery to the junction box under the hood (Connector C0632-1) There are 2 fused links (18E & 11E)

11E has a brown wire that runs to C0028-4 in the ignition switch. From there it runs to the junction box behind the glove compartment. You need power from here to make the window relay (R143) work. Since this is one a few things that the two rear windows have in common, lets make sure the the relay has power and is working. This relay is controlled by the General Electronic Module within the Central Junction Box and I do not have any idea how to test THAT. This module controls the relay based upon the position of the ignition switch and a time out signal. I would guess that if the relay is bad or the GEM is bad, you could apply 12 volt power to fuses 17P and 31P directly to make the windows work, but that would allow them to operate even when the ignition was off, but it could be used as a diagnostic to test to confirm that the relay is not working.

Now on to the wiring:
18E has a brown wire with a grey stripe that runs to C0583L-22 which runs from the under bonnet junction box into the central junction box behind the glove compartment and into the window relay (R143). If power from the ignition closes this rely, it goes to fuse 17P and 31P.

From 17P there is a green wire with a brown stripe that runs from the central junction box to C0343-8 (connector 0343 pin #8) of the drivers window control. Make sure you have power here when the ignition is on.

From 31P there is a green wire with a blue stripe that runs from the central junction box to C0343-3 of the drivers window switch. Make sure you have power here when the ignition is on.

Power leaves the drivers window switch in a few ways. For the rear right, there is grey wire with a red stripe from pin 7 to run the window up and a grey wire with an orange stripe from pin 4 to run the window down. For the rear left there is a grey wire with a red stripe from pin 2 for up and a grey wire with an orange stripe from pin 1 for down. This switch operates in parallel with the switch in the rear doors

With the isolation switch on, no power is routed through the rear switch. When the isolation switch is off you can let the back window switches work on their own as the circuit should be closed, allowing power to pass through the "Switch-Isolator (S236)" . You should have power at C265-3 and C265-7. Both are grey wires with yellow stripes. Pin 3 runs to the right rear window and Pin 7 runs to the left rear window.

In order to make the window move (from the drivers switch or the rear door switch, you need three wires from the drivers switch to the rear switch to be properly connected.
So if you have power to the drivers switch, power to pin 8 of the rear door switches, you may need to do a continuity test to confirm a good circuit. I would recommend you try this:

For right rear test drivers pin 7 to rear pin 1 (grey/red wire) for up and from drivers pin 4 to rear pin 3 (grey/orange wire) for down.
For rear left test drivers pin 2 to rear pin 1 (grey/red wire) for up and from drivers pin 1 (grey/orange wire) to rear pin 3

And to test the isolation circuit drivers pin 3 to rear right pin 8 and drivers pin 7 to rear left pin 8. (both grey/yellow wires)

If these are good try pulling right rear switch up and test between rear pin 7 and drivers switch pin 4 to make sure the switch is working. for the left rear it would be rear pin 1 and drivers pin 4.

and as a matter normal procedure for all Land Rover electrical issue, recheck any ground connection near the item you are working on.

Other than that I am not much help.

Maybe some else will come along and correct my mistakes.

Hope this helps

Jeff

 

I too am having this issue. 90% of the time rear windows do not work, but occasionally they will, though I don't use them as I don't want them stuck down.

When they work, they work from all switches. When they don't work, none of the switches will operate them. So far I haven't been able to figure out what the issue is, but hoping collectively we can figure it out, as that would be amazing to have reliably working agian.

 

The only thing that is in common with both rear windows is the drivers door window switch and the window relay in the central junction box which is controlled by the General Electronic Module within the Central Junction Box and I do not have any idea how to test THAT.

This module controls the relay based upon the position of the ignition switch and a time out signal generated by the GEM. I would guess that if the relay is bad or the GEM is bad, you could apply 12 volt power to fuses 17P and 31P directly to make the windows work, but that would allow them to operate even when the ignition was off, but it could be used as a diagnostic to test to confirm that the relay is not working.

You may try applying dielectric grease to all of the ground points near the central junction box, or (and I don't recommend this) is to pull the connectors from the central junction box and look for corrosion (you could then apply dielectric grease before you reinstall them.

Sorry I can't be much more help.

Jeff