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Replaced compressor and it wont run

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Old Mar 1, 2022 | 11:32 PM
  #31  
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Dumped air then re enabled eas. Disconnected blow off air line and started the rig. Pressure increase too slow fault and pump ran for a few second then stopped. Hooked back up and restarted. Pump ran a full cycle. Galley pressure shut off at 258. Hit paddle and code came back. Then it lifted to standard height. Reset faults and still getting the same damn fault. So it has to be a sticking center block valve?
 

Last edited by Flyfishinguy85; Mar 1, 2022 at 11:36 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2022 | 11:51 PM
  #32  
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Could be the reservoir dumping into the gallery. I want to make sure you are pulling codes though, not assuming the system fault is always the same. Assuming the code is the same, then yes back to reservoir dumping. You need to do what you did to get gallery pressure back up to what is was. A cycle so the compressor stops on its own after it has gotten to height and presumable filled the reservoir. Then pull a line at the dryer again to dump air. Then go to the center valve block and disconnect the reservoir. If the reservoir was dumping into the gallery then there will be no air left in it, right? If it was not, well carefully it is over 200psi in that tank.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2022 | 11:52 PM
  #33  
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And if you are wondering, you can not bypass the tank. The system also monitors pressure when it knows it should be filling the reservoir. And then you would get a "pressure increased too quickly when filling reservoir" fault.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2022 | 12:04 AM
  #34  
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I did repeatedly check codes and it is consistent on the C1A13-64. I will pull center block tomorrow. Ive already rebuilt with new o rings so I'm at the point of just putting a new one in...
 
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Old Mar 2, 2022 | 12:50 AM
  #35  
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Bled the system again by cracking open slightly. Cleared fault and ran pump. Again galley pressure never dumped. So soon as I toggle the paddle, triggers fault. Has to be a bad center valve block. If new o rings didnt fix it i wonder if there is a hairline fracture internally. I will order a new one and I'm almost 100% positive problem will be solved.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2022 | 07:37 AM
  #36  
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Hope you find the issue. If it's not the center block, don't dismiss the possibility of the new pump being bad, no matter the manufacturer. More and more new parts are bad out of the box these days...

Originally Posted by Flyfishinguy85
Bled the system again by cracking open slightly. Cleared fault and ran pump. Again galley pressure never dumped. So soon as I toggle the paddle, triggers fault. Has to be a bad center valve block. If new o rings didnt fix it i wonder if there is a hairline fracture internally. I will order a new one and I'm almost 100% positive problem will be solved.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2022 | 09:07 AM
  #37  
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I have a new-to-me 2007 LR3, 105k miles. The previous owner had the compressor replaced by an independent shop that used the Arnott P-3431. They noted on the bill, front struts leaking - no warranty on compressor unless struts are also replaced. When I got the car home, I had a consistent C1A13-64. The compressor was only 6 months old and the vehicle had been driven only 20 miles since replacement. Here's how I fixed it:

I removed the compressor and set it next to the frame. Hooked up the two wiring connectors, and connected the air line going from compressor to the reservoir valve inlet. I turned on the compressor with a scan tool which will pressurizes the line. Then I tapped the exhaust valve with a 12mm wrench, and POP...the exhaust valve started working and has been fine since then. So, in my case, the exhaust valve was stuck closed. Tapping on it while under pressure freed it up.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2022 | 09:38 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by P-Bod
I have a new-to-me 2007 LR3, 105k miles. The previous owner had the compressor replaced by an independent shop that used the Arnott P-3431. They noted on the bill, front struts leaking - no warranty on compressor unless struts are also replaced. When I got the car home, I had a consistent C1A13-64. The compressor was only 6 months old and the vehicle had been driven only 20 miles since replacement. Here's how I fixed it:

I removed the compressor and set it next to the frame. Hooked up the two wiring connectors, and connected the air line going from compressor to the reservoir valve inlet. I turned on the compressor with a scan tool which will pressurizes the line. Then I tapped the exhaust valve with a 12mm wrench, and POP...the exhaust valve started working and has been fine since then. So, in my case, the exhaust valve was stuck closed. Tapping on it while under pressure freed it up.
I will try this after I get a cup of coffee in
 
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Old Mar 2, 2022 | 09:44 AM
  #39  
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Pull up the live value for both pressure and temperature of he compressor. Observe what happens when you dump the air.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2022 | 01:33 PM
  #40  
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Ok, so swapped over old blow off dryer to new motor. Compressor ran right away. Toggle up on paddle instantly went to offroad height. Followed by a pressure increase too slow fault.... Im ruling out that the new dryer is crap out of the box. Took it apart and all o rings look good. Blew air through it to make sure no grease plugged any of the holes. Put it back in same fault. So when I switched it for the old dryer with new motor only get the pressure increase too slow fault. So are both dryers bad? This fix has me with gas and match in hand lol. Getting tired of comstantpy waiting on parts. Been about 2 months now and can rid this suspension of the glitch
 
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