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Replacing Air Struts

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Old Jan 22, 2020 | 02:09 PM
  #21  
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Yeah I hear y'all's point. Probably worth doing. I was just curious what the driver was for it, and now I understand, just staying ahead of the maintenance curve. I suppose on my '06 that would be prudent as it has 196k on it now. My 2005 only has 129k though.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2020 | 02:56 PM
  #22  
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The ultimate goal is in 2 years when I retire from the Army to do the trans america trail, in my Landie. So it being as good as I can make it is important. I want to stop in Abran's shop in Cali for a coffee not a repair lol
 

Last edited by ArmyRover; Jan 22, 2020 at 06:31 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2020 | 09:04 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ArmyRover
My thoughts as well.

I’m debating on doing hub bearings while I’m in there as well.
Would be a good idea. I've had the bearings go out on an Audi around 140,000 miles and had one starting to go on the LR3 at only 110,000 miles. If you haven't had them replaced yet, I would do it now while everything is apart. The fronts are a piece of cake since the assembly just bolts on to the knuckle. However, the rears are pressed in, so you would have to remove the knuckle and either take it to a shop, or put it on your own press if you have one. I don't have a press, and it was one of my front bearings that was starting to go, so I didn't replace the rears. I'm hoping it doesn't come back to bite me.

Whether you go with cheaper aftermarket struts is up to you, and it might make sense to, but the hubs/bearings are one place I would not go aftermarket on (unless it's the OE supplier/Timken). I've read enough horror stories about cheaper bearings and I've always had great results with Timken, so I stick with them.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2020 | 10:00 PM
  #24  
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Yeah I have done 3 rears and 2 fronts so far. I’m to the point of being able to do them in my sleep. Lol
 
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Old Jan 23, 2020 | 01:11 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ArmyRover
The ultimate goal is in 2 years when I retire from the Army to do the trans america trail, in my Landie. So it being as good as I can make it is important. I want to stop in Abran's shop in Cali for a coffee not a repair lol
We always have a pot on!
 
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Old Jan 23, 2020 | 05:01 PM
  #26  
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I seriously want to walk out of the retirement ceremony at post headquarters to a already loaded Land Rover. Take the dress uniform tie and jacket off pop the top button and point to the nearest entrance to the TAT pointing west.
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 04:33 PM
  #27  
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Well, I something on the rear of the LR3 has blown out. The rear suspension is bottomed out. I have been getting a suspension light for the last few weeks, but I haven't been driving the LR3 much so I have been putting it off. I will dive under tomorrow and see what is leaking. I just took a tour of the various sites for replacement shock, I am assuming that is the problem, Rears seem to run around $375 + each. When I parked the truck and shut it down there was a loud hissing from the left rear and the backend dropped. Dang. Phil

2005 LR3
2006 Range Rover Sport
2010 Range Rover Sport
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 02:01 PM
  #28  
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...what does your GAP tool say?
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 03:07 PM
  #29  
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truck is on the rear stops. I can't hear the compressor running. I jacked up the truck and checked for holes in the left side air bag. Nothing found. Checked to make sure the air lines are connected and are in good shape, didn't notice anything disconnected. I checked all suspension fuses, all looked good. Checked the relay, it looked good. I jumped the relay. I heard a slight whine from the compressor, but not a pumping sound. I pulled the jump wire and reinstalled the relay. A few seconds later, I heard the slight whining from the compressor again. I did notice a burnt rubber smell a couple of days ago. yesterday when we parked the car, before the rear completely bonked, I heard what sounded like an air dump and the tail end dropped an inch or two.

It is showing a Suspension Fault Code - C1131-92(AF)

Ideas. I have the compressor that I took off of this truck when I bought it 8 years ago. I will plug it in and see if the compressor starts up. I wonder if we fried the compressor motor when it tried to continuously fill the shock or air line with the leak. . Phil

Codes from Gap Tool:
Suspension
  • C1131-92 (AF) Air supply - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
    ( on 25-05-2020 12:04:21 at 231556 km )
Terrain Response
  • U0421-94 (27) Invalid data received from ride level control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
    ( on 25-05-2020 12:03:58 at 231556 km )
 

Last edited by ljdiscovery; May 25, 2020 at 03:10 PM.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 03:49 PM
  #30  
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I found the problem, one of the air lines at the aft end of the compressor blew off. the metal stud was still in the female end of the compressor but the airline, that is metal lined, blew off. Photos to follow. Now I need to tract down a schematic of the air lines. I hope that I haven't burned up my compressor motor. I plugged in my old compressor, it whined when I plugged it in. When I started the truck, the compressor kicked on for about 30 seconds and then shut down. Keeping my fingers crossed. Phil
 

Last edited by ljdiscovery; May 25, 2020 at 03:53 PM.
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