Hello everyone,

I have a land rover LR3 2006 V6 and have been dealing with a couple of strange issues with the air suspension. Ive researched all over for this issue, but Can only find 2 things about it and the forums just get cut off and end with no real help.

When starting the car, I instantly get a suspension fault when the compressor kicks on. I have scanned the codes, and I get c1a35 - Reservoir valve, and then shortly after, if I clear it and try and raise the car, I get C1A31 (front left corner valve). Upon these issues, I have put a new compressor, dryer, front valve block, and reservoir valve block in, and these codes and issues are still present. The weird thing about it all is that the front never really lifts, but the rear would lift and go into off-road height despite the fault. It wasn't until recently that the front lifted up a little bit.

I'm at a complete loss here... Ive checked a decent amount of things for leaks, but I'm starting to assume I'm dealing with an electrical gremlin. The rear would go up all the way in off-road height, but the front wouldn't move at all. Now, since putting in new parts, the back doesn't go as high when in off-road mode while the front stays around access height. Yet, at one point, I got the front to lift, which I Hadn't been able to do before. Even now, when it's at its normal height, the front is higher than before the new parts, but still not functioning properly. Ive read that "c1a35 - Reservoir valve" is typically an electrical fault, and when it fails, it causes other things not to function properly, which may be why I'm getting a front corner valve code. If anyone has any help, advice, or information, I would greatly appreciate it. I will take anything I can get.

In regards,
Jack

 

I'm no air suspension expert since I have coils on mine however. LR Time on youtube just did a video about this which I think actually came out today. I'd go there and watch. They're very thorough with diagnosis and repair issues. The thing w/ these trucks is you can't throw parts at them. A sensor (1 of 700 or so) can be the cause and a new part won't "fix" the issue. Good luck and hopefully they help you out.

 

Def sounds like electrical. Or you are using aftermarket parts which are often a crap-shoot on their own. I would look at the front left wheel well. When looking, go towards right side of the well towards the bottom. There is a large "frame horn" that is bolted or welded on. Being 2006, it should be bolted. Just three and they are not hard to get at. remove the bolts to get the horn out of the way and very carefully spend some some looking at all the wiring. It tends to rub on the horn and cause issues. By 2006 this should have been resolved with a new wheel well liner that sorta cradles the wires above the horn, but I have still seen it happen.

FYI, rear tends to go up because the truck usually raises the rear first before starting onto the front. This is in a matter of a half second or so though. I believe this is done to prevent a sudden and noticeable drop of the front if pressure is not just right in the system.

 

Hello NJOverland, I really appreciate your response!

I actually love their videos. They are great. I just checked out the video you were talking about; fortunately for them, they were able just to change out their front valve block, and the issue was solved. Interestingly enough, I had the reservoir valve code, and then after trying to lift the front left corner valve code all before changing the parts too. You must be right.. you really can't just throw parts at them. Because of having the same codes before and after, it really leads me toward the electrical side, as you said.

Because my front was so low, I seriously thought it was the front valve block as well. I actually put an OEM front valve block in because I really thought that would be the issue.

If you have any other potential ideas, please let me know. Once again, thanks a lot for your response. I really appreciate it.

Regards,

Jack

 

Hello DakotaTravler, Thanks for your response.

So as for this nightmare of an issue, here is the process I've been through:

My compressor ran and seemed fine, but I wanted to change the dryer to see if that was the problem; upon that, I opened a huge can of worms.

When I went to remove the main airlines into the compressor on the right side, they were just completely fused in, and the push rings would not move AT ALL. They were completely seized in there. Ive heard the common issue is that the compressor gets hot, and the lines melt into the fittings making it nearly impossible to remove. This, unfortunately, led me to have to cut the lines on the right side. Once I got the compressor out, I tried everything possible to get the rest of the line out, but the push rings were just destroyed. I think the fact that salt got in it and they fused together from the heat had just ruined it.

This was really annoying because it forced me to have to get a new compressor. I did actually order a cheap Compressor and bought a line rebuild kit that spiced a shark bite on from where I Cut the line. The kit worked... it gave me fittings, the line, and the shark bites. I got the new compressor and dryer in, tested for leaks, and turned the car on, and the same issue occurred. Got the reservoir valve code and then eventually the front corner valve code.

Next, I replaced the front valve block because I figured if it's not the compressor and I'm getting the front corner valve code, IT MUST BE THE FRONT VALVE, Right? especially because my front never lifts. For this part, I actually used an OEM land rover front valve block, cleaned the connectors, and tested it for leaks all went well. Got in the car... same codes, same issue.

Lastly, I bought a Cheap amazon Chinese middle valve block. taking off the Voss fittings, I saw tons of desiccant in the lines and said to myself, "this has to be the issue. Put it all in, tested for leaks, and had the same issues.

At this point, I stopped hunted all over for the codes and issues online but could barely find anything about it.

As you said, there was a point I thought maybe it's the cheap middle valve block I put it, but then I realized: All of these codes were present before changing the parts.. so how could it be the new part? SO CONFUSING And with the new parts, the front raised for the first time. There were times I could clear it, and it would stay off on the drive for a little bit, but then you open the door or something, and it would come back. It's always right when the compressor kicks on. I at least think all of the new parts are functioning. I am actually pretty sure there was nothing wrong with any of my stock parts, and I replaced them all for no reason. Although the desiccant in the dryer was certainly due, but that's about all.

Sorry for the overload of information, but I figured it might help try and find out the issue. I'm definitely going to have to check out that frame horn harness. I actually did read something about that, but the form was for the secondary code I get "C1a31 front left corner valve." but with these things, It could be corner valve issue causing for the reservoir issue even though I always get the reservoir valve one first. WHO KNOWS!

It's a very confusing, complicated issue and has to be electronic at this point, Right?

Thanks a lot for your advice; I will be sure to check it out. If you have any other ideas, please let me know!

In regards,

Jackson

 

On cutting the lines. One is to cut them in a straight area, then simply use a push-connect to reattach. Never once trying to remove them from the compressor itself. Also those lines are not needed for operation/testing. They are just compressor air in/out and have no pressure. The compressor will just be very loud without them. I would not drive much with them open though...

Anyway, check the wires. Make sure all connections are tight. I had a front block issue once. Turns out the connector was not on tight! I drove for some time like it was and then did some off-reading where I would get these random EAS issues. What happened is the weather seal inside the connector to the front valve block bound up. So it held, but not a good connection. Once resolved the very infrequent and random issue I had went away. In another post I mentioned this issues and for them to check rear valve block. Again they thought it was connected fine. It was not, they checked again and pushed hard and it snapped on. Their problems resolved also.