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Air suspension problem driving me crazy

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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 01:43 AM
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Default Air suspension problem driving me crazy

Hi all! I am new to Land Rover and to this group. I've have enjoyed reading posts from here and am excited to get started on my Land Rover adventure. I just bought a 2007 LR3 that has some issues. I've fixed a lot of them already. But the air suspension is driving me up a wall.

The problem is that when I go to speeds above 45-55mph for more than a couple seconds the LR3 throws an error and drops the suspension to the stops. The suspension itself will hold air for over a week with a very minimal drop just sitting there aired up. If I restart the truck the dash errors go away until the next time I get to highway speeds. (one thing to note here is that I do get messages about the "air suspension airing up slowly" but not hard fault occurs until I get to highway speed)

The codes I am getting seem to be all ride height sensor related. The first ones I thought I would address were ones that essentially said there was a malfunction from both the front ride height sensors. So I replaced both of those with some decent aftermarket ones. The code for the left front is gone, but I am still getting one for the right.

Here are my current EAS codes:
  • ID-C1A73-1C Permanent- Front right height sensor mechanism
  • ID-C1A36-01 Permanent- Exhaust valve
  • ID-C1A07-62 Permanent- Cross articulation
  • ID-CA00-54 Intermittent- Control Module
Also, before I got my Land Rover diagnostic tool I did replace the Air Compressor which didn't seem to help except that it is a bit quieter and seemed to air up quicker at first. I'm not sure how good this one is. I got it off amazon. It is the AMK style. This LR3 har already be changed to that style so I just swapped it out with another AMK style pump.

Any advice would be extremely appreciated
 
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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 11:35 AM
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Default This is an easy one...

...you just need to calibrate your suspension.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 11:53 AM
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So I have tried to calibrate but I cannot get consistent measurements. This lr3 has plastic fenders as well. I’m not sure where to measure to.
Originally Posted by houm_wa
...you just need to calibrate your suspension.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 01:56 PM
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I tried, yet again, to calibrate the height sensors. I am using a Foxwell diagnostic tool. It has worked well for everything so far, but when I try to do the calibration it fails no matter what I put in as the variables. I am measuring in inches and converting to mm as the tool only accepts metric. My measurements are 19.2" LT Front, 18.8" RT Front, and 18" for LT and RT rear.
The tool says failed if I convert these directly to mm. That is of course because I am outside the tolerances. However. I have even tried typing in the closest height that would be within tolerance to the value I measured. That doesn't work either. After that I thought I would just input the stock height to see what happens. The calibration still fails.... [These Are the values I found online: Front: 18.3 +/- 0.47 inches (465 +/- 12 mm) Rear: 19.0 +/- 0.51 inches. (482 +/- 13 mm)]

I am still at a loss as to what to do next. I suppose I could just throw more random parts at it... It seems like it is not a valve block issue. the only thing i can think of is the height control module, but that doesn't seem like an item that fails very often.
 

Last edited by paulblake; Aug 1, 2020 at 12:46 AM.
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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 02:40 PM
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Listen....the calibration is ABSOLUTELY the problem, here. If you want to spend money on something worthwhile instead of random parts, buy an IIDTool (made by GAP Diagnostics) and throw the Fox-whatever thing in the trash. Step through the calibration with the IIDTool. You measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of the wheel arch, btw.

Also, if you just want it done....the dealer shouldn't charge you more than $100. They may ask for more....but just muscle them. It seriously takes them 20 minutes.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 02:50 PM
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Default Anyone have a tool I can barrow?

I'm Spokane, WA. I see that you are north of Seattle. I come over to Seattle from time to time. It would be awesome if I could borrow one from someone... My reasoning is because I think that this Foxwell is working, but to confirm that it would be nice to try out a proper tool to confirm my issue. Anyway, I thought it was worth a shot to ask and see if anyone is in my area who would be willing to let me try. I can pay, but I'd rather not take it to the dealer mainly because I don't trust them. They'll probably tell me to get all genuine parts or something like that.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 02:52 PM
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Default Thanks!

Thank you so much for your advice and quick replies. You are giving me confidence that this can be resolved.
Originally Posted by houm_wa
Listen....the calibration is ABSOLUTELY the problem, here. If you want to spend money on something worthwhile instead of random parts, buy an IIDTool (made by GAP Diagnostics) and throw the Fox-whatever thing in the trash. Step through the calibration with the IIDTool. You measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of the wheel arch, btw.

Also, if you just want it done....the dealer shouldn't charge you more than $100. They may ask for more....but just muscle them. It seriously takes them 20 minutes.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 03:08 PM
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There are not parts required. They literally put this little measuring device on the hub, one at a time (it's cool, it slides on and has a ruler that goes up vertically) and record the values. Then they plug them into their little computer and press "CALIBRATE." Done and done. 15-20 minutes. A few things, if you go to Seattle and hit Land Rover in Lynnwood, I have some long-standing friendships with them....it's what happens when you have an LR3 for 15 years and only take it to the dealer....I go off-roading 'n **** with those guys. There are some good folks there and I can direct you to the right Service Advisor and make sure they don't mess with you.

As for borrowing an IIDTool; they are VIN-locked, so doing a calibration on a vehicle that it's not registered to is impossible, otherwise I'd oblige for a beer. IIRC there is a dealership in Spokane. It's worth a shot to call them and say "look, it needs a calibration and that's all it needs. I know it takes you 20 minutes; I'll give ya fifty bucks to do it." All they can do is say "yes" or "no." They are likely to say "yes" because they still make a little money and maybe earn your trust for the future.

That is what I'd do. Call them, flex on 'em....and then order an IIDTool.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2020 | 04:05 PM
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In my software the numbers are arbitrary, they are not in millimeters or anything. You have values and adjust those valves until the vehicle is physically at the proper measurements. So for my rears my values are like 198 on one side but 162 on the other. Yet physically the vehicle is level.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2020 | 01:26 AM
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Thanks for the help. Especially you, houm_wa. I think i will try to contact Foxwell to see if they can offer me any advice on using thier scanner tool. It has worked great for viewing all codes and erasing, Calibrating the Sunroof, programing new TPMS sensors, calibrating the steering, and it has so many more options that I have not used. It has the ability to calibrate the ride height and it may simply be that I am not doing something right or that it needs a software update. Or it may just not work well for this task, yet even if it ends up being worthless for ride height, I am extremely impressed by the price under $200 and that i can easily add more car brands to it for only $60 for each OEM specific programing. Also, i am not tied to one car like with IIDTool or other brands.

Anyways, you could be right houm_wa, but I want to explore this option a little further. I personally think that programing tools are always way too expensive and monopolized. So maybe I can help by bringing up a little guy who is making something good and affordable.

I will keep you guys updated to see what i end up doing.
 
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