Speed Sensor A Fault
Got to the transfer case module and ecu behind it. Smoothed dielectric on all connections and refitted. Took our instrument panel and smoothed grease on that connection as well.
Hopefully someone will will pop up and know what I could be going through
Hopefully someone will will pop up and know what I could be going through
Hi, I was just wondering if you ever fixed this issue. I'm having the same problem with my range rover sport. It seems to have happened after modifying the tyre size using an iid tool. I'm hoping there is some sort of fix other than putting up with an incorrect speedo, though I haven't checked if changing that back will fix it yet.
So word of caution when usung the IIDTool on this. I had to learn this the hard way.
Jeff
Have you tried pulling the resistors and putting the lr3 taillight assemblies back in? I would be checking and cleaning ground points as well there is 3-4 of them I think under the hood alone.
Also what codes pending or otherwise is the gap getting during it's episodes?
Houm you taught me something new today, I had no idea we could tag people. Calvary would be Abran I am a simple wrench turner
Also what codes pending or otherwise is the gap getting during it's episodes?
Houm you taught me something new today, I had no idea we could tag people. Calvary would be Abran I am a simple wrench turner
Have you tried pulling the resistors and putting the lr3 taillight assemblies back in? I would be checking and cleaning ground points as well there is 3-4 of them I think under the hood alone.
Also what codes pending or otherwise is the gap getting during it's episodes?
Houm you taught me something new today, I had no idea we could tag people. Calvary would be Abran I am a simple wrench turner
Also what codes pending or otherwise is the gap getting during it's episodes?
Houm you taught me something new today, I had no idea we could tag people. Calvary would be Abran I am a simple wrench turner
Only codes are signals lost between ride level module, transfer case module and tire pressure module.
I realized that I really only get it when stepping on the brake and something happens that throws it for a loop. Am taking it in for evaluating today.
Heres hoping
Re the instrument panel, yes that single large connector tends to lose connection and then really odds thing happen. Most often, the connection problem shows itself as the temperature or fuel gauge not working.
That is minor however, as the backup Engine Computer / Car Computer chip is located on the instrument cluster Printed Circuit Board.
If the primary car computer, (located on a PCB attached to the rear of the fuse panel located behind the lower glove box), is not in constant communication with the backup, the 3 throws fits. This is why you can just not install a junkyard instrument cluster in one's 3 without doing some programming to get at least the VIN of the replacement instrument PCB to agree with the primary car computer VIN. It may be that one could replace both with their mates from the donating vehicle and there would be happiness, but I doubt it.
You mentioned LR4 LED tail lights and resistors. That should work but is there any chance you can perhaps temporarily install the older LR3 incandescent tail lights? The tail lights are electrically tied to the downhill decent programming - the brake lights automatically illuminate when the retard command is created. The reality is the tail lights can initiate a corrupted version of the decent slow down program and tell the computer to downshift the tranny or the engine to back off or the brakes to go on and other mischief. Alternatively, just consider unplugging the LED tail lights - desperate measures are called for here.
That is also why replacing the brake light switch which you have already done is so important. Within the link below are wiring pdf's that if you follow from the brake switch contacts, (second set), they go back to the car computer and ABS system - it is like cancer - problems spread. This is why it seems that everything in the LR has broke at the same time - it has not, but it seems that way. The 3 is a mobile computer masquerading as the Worlds Best 4x4.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thu...php?album=5082
Well, I figured it out and it has something to do with braking. Each time this limp mode and engine system fault has happened I have either been coming to a stop stepping hard on the brake.
Took the wheel sensors off and cleaned them and checked my gap toll and all wheels were accurate on speed. Not sure what else to check.
Anyone?
Took the wheel sensors off and cleaned them and checked my gap toll and all wheels were accurate on speed. Not sure what else to check.
Anyone?
I don't think you can get much deeper into the weeds than you already are. You have ready done everything I would have done in about the same order.
Long shot here...... since it is happening during deceleration, could it be the yaw sensor?
It is under the center console and detects the speed of all four wheels and how straight he the car is (among other things) Try pulling it out, cleaning connectors adding dielectric grease and reinstalling.
Jeff
Long shot here...... since it is happening during deceleration, could it be the yaw sensor?
It is under the center console and detects the speed of all four wheels and how straight he the car is (among other things) Try pulling it out, cleaning connectors adding dielectric grease and reinstalling.
Jeff
06 Lr3 P0501-00 (2E) Vehicle speed sensor A range/performance, transmission will not engage! Gap shows all sensors working correctly, replaced front lower control arm & hub, cleaned all sensors, Im stumped! Gap is stumped! Need advice please!
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