I picked up a 2010 Range Rover Sport HSE. 131k miles, had a minor collision in the front. Took out the radiator and ac condenser, bumper and driver's side headlight. Battery was dead when I got it. I jumped it and got it running. Suspension worked perfectly. I swapped out the battery and changed out the radiator and ac condenser. While I was waiting for parts to arrive, the front end dropped to the access height. After the front end parts were changed, I started up and it and runs great. However, I now have two suspension faults and the suspension is locked at standard height, problem is, the front won't return to the standard height, it is still at access height.

Here are the two suspension faults. The air pump was buzzing with the key off. I removed the cover and unplugged the pump Buzzing stopped. Tried to clear the fault with the pump unplugged it didn’t clear. Is the pump shot. The pump looks almost new. Very clean. It is the Hitachi model.

RLM-Suspension

• C1A36-01 (AF) Exhaust valve - General failure information - general electrical failure
  ( on 05-07-2021 09:48:41 at 131920 mi )
• C1A27-12 (AF) Compressor circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery
  ( on 05-07-2021 09:48:40 at 131920 mi )

Update - I pulled the center console and disassembled the height switch assembly. I had a fair amount of coffee or soda residue. I also had a deflection on the circuit board when the access height button was depressed causing the underlying switch on the circuit board not to engage fully. I inserted a small piece of firm foam between the circuit board and the cover that helped to keep the board from deflecting. Although the switch was no spotless, it didn't clear up my suspension fault.

I tried to manually turn on the air compressor by connecting plugs 3 and 5 on the relay on the fuse box next to the battery. No luck. I had an extra air pump and plugged it in, in place of the one in the truck. I did not attach the air lines,, just the plugs. It didn't start up but it did start to buzz after about 10 to 15 seconds, just like the original that was in the truck. So I am back to zero. I still have the two suspension faults. I can't clear them with a hard reset or with the Gap Tool.

(interestingly, the Gap Tool shows the fault as of May 9, 2021. That is before I got the truck. However, when I got it, the suspension seemed to work fine. It only started showing the fault and stopped working when I installed the new radiator and did some cleaning up under the hood.)

Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Phil

2010 Range Rover Sport HSE 5.0

 

Check the 60A maxi-fuse/fusible link. Mine went bad not too long ago and was giving me a hard fault for compressor circuit open/shorted.

 

well the mystery has been solved. suspension works perfectly. I changed out the radiator core support on the Range Rover Sport. There is a plug under the left hand corner. It was dark and I didn't notice that I hadn't plugged that connection back in. Luxe Electrical in San Diego found the problem. Now it is time to have the hood repaired, and bumper painted and reinstalled. This truck driver really well. I did notice that I might have a very small oil leak coming from the vacuum pump gasket. I have never changed one of those, Any hints. Bingo! Phil