Yes, that new billet cover on the air dryer is a good upgrade.

The reason I asked re the same compressor is that I have a theory that the newer Hitachi compressors take a different software than the older units.

As such, do not try upgrading the compressor software until you have the system running properly. In fact, I tend not to fool with software very much as all as it is too much of a black art.

I sometimes think some of the guys are stuffing in the AMK software where they are still running the Hitachi compressor - that is a real no no.

Incidentally, the AMK compressor is far from perfect; hence rebuilding the Hitachi makes sense.

Yes, I think it is just something with the compressor valves or relief valves stuck open or something like that.

Make certain your 3's frame is on axle jacks. Do not assume you can fool with the compressor and that the air will remain locked in the air springs - well you can if you have a spare set of fingers handy - most owners do not however.

 

Update. I was able to create two T fittings and bypass both valve blocks and use my shop compressor to fill up front and rear air struts. Front was easy, rear still has a small leak I am trying to find. Might be the left strut is worn a gole some where. Its a band aid for now but its kinda if cool, I can use the residule air from the air tank i keep in the cargo compartment to give it a quick shot and it raises pretty quick. Just gotto turn off all the warning chimes and lights. Should hold me over until I can save up for the AB Coilover conversion. I plan on keeping the air system in tact in case I want to go back to it.

 

Typo city, sorry.

 

Rear hose and T



Front, minus air chuck, I took the photo before I put the air chuck in.



Hose for the rear, I ran it through spare tire well to the tow hitch for easy operation and access to the air chuck.

 

I presume the tee is a metric M10 x 1 thread for the Voss 6mm tubing fittings?

If so, then I suppose you went from the M10 thread to nominal 1/4" NPT?

Finding the fittings is the hard part.

I must commend you. I have a theory that if one just plumbs into the air tank and pressures up there, that can also fill the air springs as long as the block valves are working and powered.

The link below is how I did tap into the air tank but have yet to have a failure where I had to actually try out the theory.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Schrader Valve Air Tank Air In install


Your way however does work for certain, (no theory), and with the F26E fused pulled, that gets rid of the error messages.

The jpg's are much appreciated.

 

Thanks fir the reply and your air tank mods. I decided to go with one in front and rear so I can air down if needed or just add air to the rear when I tow my camper trailer. Although this is just a big band aid temporary fix. Ill look for the fuse to pull as well.

 

I did go with the 1/8 size brass fittings. I found a couple web sites that sell the LR voss fittings at $13 eachIll take more pics of the finished work how I ran the hose etc...

 

Voss fittings are near impossible to find up here in the polar darkness.

Metric fittings I can find, but Voss, no.

Can you post a link for where you got your Voss fittings.

 

Miessler automotive sells fittings for $13.59 each shipped

 

VOSS Suspension Air Line Hose Connector Brass Fitting | Land Rover Discovery 3 / LR3 2005-2009