Total Lockout on LR#
LR3 Please help! We've been working on the heater fan switch. We must have left it in the on position, and we are assuming it drained the battery. The key fobs do not work and neither does the manual key open the driver's door. The security light still flashes inside on the dash. We can't figure out how to open the doors, rear hatch, sunroof or hood. We even tried to trickle charge the battery through the tow wiring harness.
Is removing the headlight the best way to open the hood-- or is there something else we can try to open any door?
Is removing the headlight the best way to open the hood-- or is there something else we can try to open any door?
You should be able to get a jumper cable/or a decent charger on the positive terminal of the starter(the big cable), then connect the other clamp to ground. That should be more than enough to power the systems to get it open.
Thanks Army Rover, but how do I get to the starter? I am so frustrated! I am about to break the window glass to get to the hood release.
Last edited by Georgiacats; Dec 25, 2014 at 12:17 PM. Reason: added content
Passenger side back of the engine where it meets the bell housing. If you look in the lr3 section for the lucky8 build he does a fairly detailed write up on replacing the starter with pics. It should give you a pretty good guide to access it.
Thanks --- I'd better hurry and get started. I will just be happy if we can get the hood up today. Then, I'll worry about the battery and door locks. It's so upsetting to have a giant immobile doorstop in my yard. But at least this happened at home!
Connecting to the starter motor, while difficult is guaranteed to work.
I noted the comment re trickle charing thru the round trailer socket at the rear. It should work but will take time. One of the terminals should show as having voltage on it - not much but some. If so, you might try running power back thru that terminal. The terminal shown on the diagram marked as 12VDC Battery may show some voltage.
All you are trying to do it get the voltage back to where the door locks will work and hopefully if you can get the hitch to backfeed, that none of the fuses blow that protect the circuit. If one does, it is just a nusiance but what I am saying is do not try to run much thru the socket - just get the doors open.
Let us know how it all worked out.
I noted the comment re trickle charing thru the round trailer socket at the rear. It should work but will take time. One of the terminals should show as having voltage on it - not much but some. If so, you might try running power back thru that terminal. The terminal shown on the diagram marked as 12VDC Battery may show some voltage.
All you are trying to do it get the voltage back to where the door locks will work and hopefully if you can get the hitch to backfeed, that none of the fuses blow that protect the circuit. If one does, it is just a nusiance but what I am saying is do not try to run much thru the socket - just get the doors open.
Let us know how it all worked out.
Last edited by bbyer; Dec 25, 2014 at 06:53 PM.
x2 I'd love to know if this gets you in and how bad it was to do.


