Tracking down a cold start belt squeak
#31
#32
Boom!!
Holy **** after 2yrs I finally solved this...and you won't believe how simple it was. It was rust on the crankshaft pulley that had transferred to the belt.
I cant believe I didnt diagnose this earlier. I had seen how rusty the crankshaft pulley was before but figured it was normal. What I didnt notice was how it had transferred to the belt and turned it brown. Once I got a light on it I could see the rear belt was black while the front belt was brown. This immediately made sense as it was linked to cold evenings in SF when condensation builds up. And when we would spend the night at the beach it was louder from the salty air.
So even before I started taking things apart (for the 4th time) I felt I was on the right track. Here are the steps I took to diagnose for the next guy that runs into this issue:
1. I started up the car for a few seconds to confirm the noise was present.
2. Took the airbox and fan shroud off.
3. Remove the fan. This is always tricky. Remember it loosens to the right and the trick to remember is look which way the fan blades are pointed. I used a 36mm wrench and flat head screwdriver between the nut and 3 bolts on the pulley. Trying to pry this doesn't work and will likely result it you slipping and breaking the fan blade or your fingers. The only way I've been able to do it consitently is by banging on the 36mm wrench with a mallet a few times. That eventually knocks it loose.
4. To isolate if the fan clutch was the issue I started it again briefly without the fan to see if the noise was still present. Note: turn the car off after 10 seconds as it will die after 20 seconds without the MAF connected. I could still hear the noise so went to the next step.
5. I then removed the front belt that had rust on it. Note: when relieving the tension on the tensioner with a 1/2 breaker remember to have the bar angled towards the driver side. If you start with the bar point straight up when it snaps back without the belt the breaker bar and your fingers will get stuck against some hoses.
6. With the belt removed I started it again for 5 seconds. No noise was present so I knew I isolated it to that front belt!!
7. I then sprayed brake cleaner on the crankshaft pulley and used a brush to clean the grooves thoroughly. I could have probably re-used the belt after cleaning it but I had a new one anyway so put that on.
8. Restarted it after installing the belt for 5 seconds and no noise present so I knew I nailed it!!!
9. Cleaned up the engine bay a little and reinstalled everything.
10. Came inside and told Google to play "We are the Champions". My wife was totally unimpressed...
So here ends the saga. Thanks for everyones suggestions along the way. I also replaced the hood switch last week so two of my primary annoyances are solved. Whats left on my list:
1. Front control arms. Im still wondering if thats worth doing myself.
2. New clips for the A pillar trim pieces. I got a new windshield last year and I don't think the installed the trim correctly. I get a whistling noise when driving over 70.
Holy **** after 2yrs I finally solved this...and you won't believe how simple it was. It was rust on the crankshaft pulley that had transferred to the belt.
I cant believe I didnt diagnose this earlier. I had seen how rusty the crankshaft pulley was before but figured it was normal. What I didnt notice was how it had transferred to the belt and turned it brown. Once I got a light on it I could see the rear belt was black while the front belt was brown. This immediately made sense as it was linked to cold evenings in SF when condensation builds up. And when we would spend the night at the beach it was louder from the salty air.
So even before I started taking things apart (for the 4th time) I felt I was on the right track. Here are the steps I took to diagnose for the next guy that runs into this issue:
1. I started up the car for a few seconds to confirm the noise was present.
2. Took the airbox and fan shroud off.
3. Remove the fan. This is always tricky. Remember it loosens to the right and the trick to remember is look which way the fan blades are pointed. I used a 36mm wrench and flat head screwdriver between the nut and 3 bolts on the pulley. Trying to pry this doesn't work and will likely result it you slipping and breaking the fan blade or your fingers. The only way I've been able to do it consitently is by banging on the 36mm wrench with a mallet a few times. That eventually knocks it loose.
4. To isolate if the fan clutch was the issue I started it again briefly without the fan to see if the noise was still present. Note: turn the car off after 10 seconds as it will die after 20 seconds without the MAF connected. I could still hear the noise so went to the next step.
5. I then removed the front belt that had rust on it. Note: when relieving the tension on the tensioner with a 1/2 breaker remember to have the bar angled towards the driver side. If you start with the bar point straight up when it snaps back without the belt the breaker bar and your fingers will get stuck against some hoses.
6. With the belt removed I started it again for 5 seconds. No noise was present so I knew I isolated it to that front belt!!
7. I then sprayed brake cleaner on the crankshaft pulley and used a brush to clean the grooves thoroughly. I could have probably re-used the belt after cleaning it but I had a new one anyway so put that on.
8. Restarted it after installing the belt for 5 seconds and no noise present so I knew I nailed it!!!
9. Cleaned up the engine bay a little and reinstalled everything.
10. Came inside and told Google to play "We are the Champions". My wife was totally unimpressed...
So here ends the saga. Thanks for everyones suggestions along the way. I also replaced the hood switch last week so two of my primary annoyances are solved. Whats left on my list:
1. Front control arms. Im still wondering if thats worth doing myself.
2. New clips for the A pillar trim pieces. I got a new windshield last year and I don't think the installed the trim correctly. I get a whistling noise when driving over 70.
Last edited by thebruce; 12-15-2018 at 12:27 PM.
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