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Transmission fluid to dark to replace at 117k. Leave it?

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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 01:05 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by mx468
I would drain and refill what you have in the pan. I flushed mine through the radiator oil cooler lines. Easy job if you have a pressurized garden sprayer. Made my truck run smoother and I lost the stop and go hesitation.
Can we get more details on this? The California stop issue drives me nuts. Is this a possible fix for it? Flushing through the lines seems like a good option as opposed to cracking open the sealed parts. How do you ensure you get it filled back up to the right level? Or do you just measure and put back in whatever came out?

Originally Posted by bbyer
Going back to the Hydromatic and similar, when it is near its end of life, an oil change with fresh clean oil will most likely cause it to immediately stop working. The accepted fix is then to add fresh iron filings to the new oil, and magic, the vehicle is now ready for the used car lot. That is where the comments re the effects of a tranny oil change evolve from.
What the what? The tranny stops working without metal filings in it?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 02:55 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by RipD
What the what? The tranny stops working without metal filings in it?
Re adding iron filings to a worn out older style tranny, you might want to read up on the Hydramatic, among the first of the successful mass production automatic transmissions.

From history is most often where our modern day Old Mechanics tales have evolved.

Hydramatic - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

If you look at the design of the plastic pans on our ZF units, you will discover two round magnets located at the front end near the built in oil filter. The purpose of the magnets is to remove iron filings from the oil.

As such, when you remove and replace the plastic pan, one often inspects the magnets to see what is adhering to the magnets. Most often is it just a paste like deposit, and unhappily, sometimes it can be chunks.

Regardless an inspection of the magnets is of value. Needless to say, a flush does not replace the filter nor does it allow for inspection of the magnets.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 02:44 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by mx468
I flushed mine through the radiator oil cooler lines. Easy job if you have a pressurized garden sprayer. Made my truck run smoother and I lost the stop and go hesitation.
I double this. Would LOVE to get more details. I had a drain/refill at a local Land Rover shop here in Seattle, but I dont like the fluid they put in, plus I have 73,000 miles on my LR3, and a flush sounds nice

P.S. Im definitely going with the ZF Lifeguard again. You can also find it in quart bottles on Amazon!
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 09:46 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by bbyer
Re adding iron filings to a worn out older style tranny, you might want to read up on the Hydramatic, among the first of the successful mass production automatic transmissions.

From history is most often where our modern day Old Mechanics tales have evolved.

Hydramatic - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

If you look at the design of the plastic pans on our ZF units, you will discover two round magnets located at the front end near the built in oil filter. The purpose of the magnets is to remove iron filings from the oil.

As such, when you remove and replace the plastic pan, one often inspects the magnets to see what is adhering to the magnets. Most often is it just a paste like deposit, and unhappily, sometimes it can be chunks.

Regardless an inspection of the magnets is of value. Needless to say, a flush does not replace the filter nor does it allow for inspection of the magnets.
I get all that. I don't get why the tranny would need metal shavings/dust to operate correctly. Or was the point to add metal shavings/dust so it doesn't look like the fluid was recently changed?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 02:17 PM
  #15  
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Default kind of like packing a rear end with sawdust

I must say I am encouraged by the fact you do not quite understand what I am suggesting.

Regarding iron filings and old worn out automatic transmissions, when it was felt the solution to a tranny problem was a new filter and new oil and the result was all the gears disappeared due to too much wear, the quick fix was to dirty up the oil to I suppose increase the viscosity. Short of putting the old oil back in, an alternative was to add iron fillings to the new oil. At that point, it was then time to either spend money to properly rebuild the transmission or sell the vehicle.

While I do not know for certain, I think that particular "fix" will not work with our electro hydraulic ZF units that now have the Mechatronics unit internal. These new Mechatronics trannny control devices shift electronically rather than mechanically and do not appreciate conductive oil.
 

Last edited by bbyer; Jan 19, 2015 at 08:51 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 08:24 PM
  #16  
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Clutches wear out in the old trannies. Change the dirty fluid that is thickened by the material coming off the worn out clutches, new fluid/filter oil is thin clutches slip, add stuff to thicken the fluid/ grit it up, no more slipping

Old trannies are shifted by valve pressure like in d1
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 09:27 PM
  #17  
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Still seems like a mix bag to drain and fill or not. My mechanic says it could be a pandoras box. Damned if I do damed if I don't : /
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 07:27 AM
  #18  
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just do it, so your mechanic advice to you is just drive it until it needs a $5k transmission
 

Last edited by drowssap; Jan 20, 2015 at 09:51 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 07:45 AM
  #19  
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Default find the local not chain tranny shop

My view is that not many mechanics or shops are comfortable with messing about with any ZF transmission. Regarding shops, that specifically includes near all Mercedes, Audi, Land Rover, and BMW dealers.

If you plan on keeping your 3, you have no choice but to find someone comfortable with the ZF tranny and then do a full oil/filter/pan change.

That was my primary problem here in my village. The dealer admitted they had only negative experience with the ZF whenever they fussed with it; as such they found a local independent tranny shop, (not part of a chain), and directed me there as well as sending all their tranny work there.

You probably have a similar type local shop; it will be probably be located in the east end of your town; the area surrounding the shop will be littered with dead foreign jobs and the guys who work there will look like real working mechanics, (not techs), used to spilling a bit of oil. They will also know trannies.

The good news is our ZF is now license built by Ford as the 6R60 so more places are getting experience with the 6HP26.
 

Last edited by bbyer; Jan 20, 2015 at 06:34 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 10:31 AM
  #20  
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bbyer, did you do the oil/filter change for preventative maintenance? Mine is running smooth as butter right now but If I can get to 200k without touching it I will. But if I'll get there with an oil and filter change I will do that also. BUT if i do the preventative maintenance and it destroys the tranny that will be a real bitch!

Anyone do preventative tranny maintenance that has caused tranny failure?
 

Last edited by fso; Jan 20, 2015 at 12:03 PM.
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