Transmission fluid to dark to replace at 117k. Leave it?
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 22
From: Pacific Northwest
I double this. Would LOVE to get more details. I had a drain/refill at a local Land Rover shop here in Seattle, but I dont like the fluid they put in, plus I have 73,000 miles on my LR3, and a flush sounds nice 
P.S. Im definitely going with the ZF Lifeguard again. You can also find it in quart bottles on Amazon!
P.S. Im definitely going with the ZF Lifeguard again. You can also find it in quart bottles on Amazon!
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
twice now for preventitive
I now have 202,000 km (125,000 miles) on my 3.
I had my tranny shop put the second plastic pan on in Sept 2014 at 192,000 km (119,000 miles).
In both cases, it was preventative maintenance. Prior to the pan change in each case, there were no apparent problems however after each change, I did feel an improvement in acceleration sort of and maybe less notice of shift change however that has always been pretty good.
The shop here in Edmonton Alberta Canada is DOT Transmission on 149 Street in North West Edmonton. The shop used the Land Rover bottled and supplied oil from the LR dealer as I was paying cost plus, so to speak.
The pan change out is not a fun task.
I had my tranny shop put the second plastic pan on in Sept 2014 at 192,000 km (119,000 miles).
In both cases, it was preventative maintenance. Prior to the pan change in each case, there were no apparent problems however after each change, I did feel an improvement in acceleration sort of and maybe less notice of shift change however that has always been pretty good.
The shop here in Edmonton Alberta Canada is DOT Transmission on 149 Street in North West Edmonton. The shop used the Land Rover bottled and supplied oil from the LR dealer as I was paying cost plus, so to speak.
The pan change out is not a fun task.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 94
Likes: 4
I must say I am encouraged by the fact you do not quite understand what I am suggesting.
Regarding iron filings and old worn out automatic transmissions, when it was felt the solution to a tranny problem was a new filter and new oil and the result was all the gears disappeared due to too much wear, the quick fix was to dirty up the oil to I suppose increase the viscosity. Short of putting the old oil back in, an alternative was to add iron fillings to the new oil. At that point, it was then time to either spend money to properly rebuild the transmission or sell the vehicle.
While I do not know for certain, I think that particular "fix" will not work with our electro hydraulic ZF units that now have the Mechatronics unit internal. These new Mechatronics trannny control devices shift electronically rather than mechanically and do not appreciate conductive oil.
Regarding iron filings and old worn out automatic transmissions, when it was felt the solution to a tranny problem was a new filter and new oil and the result was all the gears disappeared due to too much wear, the quick fix was to dirty up the oil to I suppose increase the viscosity. Short of putting the old oil back in, an alternative was to add iron fillings to the new oil. At that point, it was then time to either spend money to properly rebuild the transmission or sell the vehicle.
While I do not know for certain, I think that particular "fix" will not work with our electro hydraulic ZF units that now have the Mechatronics unit internal. These new Mechatronics trannny control devices shift electronically rather than mechanically and do not appreciate conductive oil.
Clutches wear out in the old trannies. Change the dirty fluid that is thickened by the material coming off the worn out clutches, new fluid/filter oil is thin clutches slip, add stuff to thicken the fluid/ grit it up, no more slipping
Old trannies are shifted by valve pressure like in d1
Old trannies are shifted by valve pressure like in d1
Thanks.
Winching
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 40
From: Newport, Rhode Island
[QUOTE=RipD;500307]Can we get more details on this? The California stop issue drives me nuts. Is this a possible fix for it? Flushing through the lines seems like a good option as opposed to cracking open the sealed parts. How do you ensure you get it filled back up to the right level? Or do you just measure and put back in whatever came out?
Measure what comes out and than put the same back in. Here's a link to the oil cooler tranny fill.
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - FILO's autobox oil change
Our us v8 model is a little different in the location of where the oil comes out of the radiator than whats in the forum. When looking down at the radiator from front of truck look down to the right, you'll see the oil cooler tube about 8 inches down.
Measure what comes out and than put the same back in. Here's a link to the oil cooler tranny fill.
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - FILO's autobox oil change
Our us v8 model is a little different in the location of where the oil comes out of the radiator than whats in the forum. When looking down at the radiator from front of truck look down to the right, you'll see the oil cooler tube about 8 inches down.
Lamorna Garage in Ballard. Great guys! The fluid was a Redline Synthetic ATF Im pretty sure. The Oil change/Refill is a very simple task if you have the right tools. Im going to drain and refill mine with the original fluid (ZF Lifequard) once I hit 75k
For those of you looking at doing the Drain and Refill yourselves, here is a GREAT step by step guide on refilling the ZF Tranny!
ZF 6HP26 trans fill temp explained - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
ZF 6HP26 trans fill temp explained - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 22
From: Pacific Northwest
I just did the same and I was very happy they used Redline (and not Amsoil). I can't see how LR Genuine is any better than Redline?
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
no software reset
I do not think any shop volunteers a software reset, particularly when for doing a tranny oil change. Myself, I really have to have a reason before I mess with any sort of flashing or fooling with the computers for anything.
For me, it is that for the most part, I do not know what is going on; that is I do not understand what is already in the computers, nor do I know what might be being put in. To me, most of this software is beta regardless unless one has done it a thousand times before and even then it is still beta as one really does not know what one is overwriting or worse, what the existing and new are/will be talking to.
Recently, I successfully did an HVAC software update but that was only after thinking about doing so for perhaps a year and coming to the conclusion that my HVAC system was probably mechanically OK, but not reacting properly to the sun ie, the sunlight sensor was not doing what I thought it should.
Still, the HVAC update was a gamble, (successful, but still a gamble), and regardless of outcome, would probably not have me walking; a tranny update or reset, well, I cannot say the same thing with any assurance plus as far as I was concerned, all was OK - the oil changes were just preventative maintenance.
Regarding oil, I expect the Land Rover and or ZF stuff is not much better than any of the quality oils that are regarded as ZF LifeguardFluid6 compatibly, but again I do not know and I continually try to reduce variables, not add to them. Yes, I am a chicken - bleeding edge is not really me.
Just as an aside to the LR tranny oil thing, the bottles that actually arrived had Jaguar written on them; apparently here, the oil in the Jag 8432 bottles has a better dealer markup than the same oil in the LR TYK500050 containers.
For the 6HP26 and 26X tranny, the following are the part number for the following vehicle manufacturers re the ZF Lifeguardfluid6 (ZF No. S671 090 255)
=> AML Oil No. 4G4319A509/AA/S
=> Audi /VW Oil No. G 055005 A1 / A2 / A6
=> Bentley Oil No. PY112995PA
=> BMW Oil No. 8322 0142516
=> Hyundai Oil No. 040000C90SG
=> Jaguar Oil No. Jaguar Fluid 8432
=> Land Rover Oil No. TYK500050
For me, it is that for the most part, I do not know what is going on; that is I do not understand what is already in the computers, nor do I know what might be being put in. To me, most of this software is beta regardless unless one has done it a thousand times before and even then it is still beta as one really does not know what one is overwriting or worse, what the existing and new are/will be talking to.
Recently, I successfully did an HVAC software update but that was only after thinking about doing so for perhaps a year and coming to the conclusion that my HVAC system was probably mechanically OK, but not reacting properly to the sun ie, the sunlight sensor was not doing what I thought it should.
Still, the HVAC update was a gamble, (successful, but still a gamble), and regardless of outcome, would probably not have me walking; a tranny update or reset, well, I cannot say the same thing with any assurance plus as far as I was concerned, all was OK - the oil changes were just preventative maintenance.
Regarding oil, I expect the Land Rover and or ZF stuff is not much better than any of the quality oils that are regarded as ZF LifeguardFluid6 compatibly, but again I do not know and I continually try to reduce variables, not add to them. Yes, I am a chicken - bleeding edge is not really me.
Just as an aside to the LR tranny oil thing, the bottles that actually arrived had Jaguar written on them; apparently here, the oil in the Jag 8432 bottles has a better dealer markup than the same oil in the LR TYK500050 containers.
For the 6HP26 and 26X tranny, the following are the part number for the following vehicle manufacturers re the ZF Lifeguardfluid6 (ZF No. S671 090 255)
=> AML Oil No. 4G4319A509/AA/S
=> Audi /VW Oil No. G 055005 A1 / A2 / A6
=> Bentley Oil No. PY112995PA
=> BMW Oil No. 8322 0142516
=> Hyundai Oil No. 040000C90SG
=> Jaguar Oil No. Jaguar Fluid 8432
=> Land Rover Oil No. TYK500050
Last edited by bbyer; Jan 20, 2015 at 10:35 PM. Reason: oil part numbers added
) I've hear good and bad about Redline in the LR3. As you've seen in this Thread alone, our Tranny's can be finicky and picky. So going with OEM Fluid is probably the, cough, safest, cough, most expensive route for peace of mind. But Just like Gord'n said to me when I asked about putting Royal Purple into my Diff's and Transfer Case, "Gotta try it to find out".How long have you been running Redline Syn in your LR3?