When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I did the service over the weekend. Used the original fill hole, and also pulled the mechatronic unit down to replace the four cylindrical seals and the square plastic seal. Followed everything by the book and it went pretty seamlessly. Putting the mechatronic unit back up felt a little tricky, because the new cylindrical seals stuck out a tiny bit on the bottom and weren't flush with the metal case. (as seen in this video:
It was Monday afternoon when I did first test drive. Previously there was a constant RPM surging by 100RPM while holding steady throttle- this behavior is now gone. Very smooth upshifts. Downshifts lagging a bit more than usual. I assume there will be a learning period for the computer to smooth out the shifting with new fluid in there, but I haven't reset adaptations just yet.
Today, Tuesday evening, started her up again to run an errand, and shifting from Park to Reverse, was a pretty hard shift and the car bucked a little bit... Put back to Park (smooth) and back to reverse again (smooth this time). Drove around for an hour or so, and same deal as yesterday, smooth upshifts and slightly laggy downshifts.
When I got home, I shifted in and out of Reverse a few times and it was now smooth. As a test, I put the transmission in Low Range mode. Shifting in and out of Reverse while in Low Range mode is VERY clunky. Audibly and physically the car jerks going in and out of Reverse. Put it back to HI range, and no issue there..
I'm also getting a single Fault P0500-82 (EC) Vehicle Speed Sensor A - Bus signal/message failure - alive/sequence counter is incorrect/not updated. My understand is that sensor is in one of the wheels? Is that correct? I don't see how this could be related to transmission work, but this fault was not there beforehand. I did remove the front right wheel to inspect the strut the other day, but didn't check faults between that and doing transmission.
I can't find P0500-82 in the book, but P0500- is there and related to vehicle speed with, "Check for ABS DTCs. Check the CAN circuits. Refer to the electrical guides."
Take a good look at this post and the rest of this thread as a possible source of your speed code. Pins 2 and 6 are the CAN circuits.
I can't find P0500-82 in the book, but P0500- is there and related to vehicle speed with, "Check for ABS DTCs. Check the CAN circuits. Refer to the electrical guides."
Take a good look at this post and the rest of this thread as a possible source of your speed code. Pins 2 and 6 are the CAN circuits.
Thanks for this! I will definitely check that out. A bad electrical connection there could explain the p0500 fault, but not the clunky shifts in and out of park though right?
I have a nagging thought that the rectangular seal wasn’t seated correctly before torquing the Mechatronic back down, causing both a leaky seal there (which I’ve read can cause issues shifting in and out of gear) and the actual speed sensor to not be in the right position. Adding to this suspicion is that putting the Mechatronic back in it felt unstable, which at the time I chalked up to those cylindrical seals sticking out a touch.
regardless, I’m going to inspect the connector and see what I find there.
Hey y'all,
but I haven't reset adaptations just yet.
I would reset adaptations before you dig back into the valve body. If your seals were leaking before, your transmission may be overcompensating now for the new, tight seals. There are certain drive cycles to go through for a proper learn, not sure what they are, but regular driving for a few days be sufficient.
The rectangular seal, when you snap it in, holds itself loosely in place while you refit the valve body. The new tube seals are supposed to protrude slightly. The tubes and rectangular seal are compressed and sealed when you torque the valve body.
I think the connector looks okay. Perhaps #2 is eeeever so slightly more pushed in than the others?
gap from edge of plastic screw down ring to metal edge it’s tough to get a clear read on. I set a digital caliper to 3mm and lined it up best I could up there and it’s either 3 or 3.5mm. It’s supposed to be less than 3mm. At the same time, the white plastic tab inside slid upwards without any resistance at all to lock the sleeve in place, which should mean it’s fully inserted. But perhaps there’s enough room on the sleeve for the clip to side up even with out the sleeve being fully inserted.
After checking the connector and giving the sleeve some gentle pressure to try and move it a mm, p0500 fault won’t clear. I’m not sure what other steps I can take without draining the fluid and opening it back up again to recheck everythjng. I’m hesitant to try and push the plastic sleeve in further with much force with the white plastic clip still in its upwards locked in position inside.
I know I can reset adaptations, but it doesn’t seem like that would fix either clunky shift from Park, or the speed sensor fault. anything else I can try before I open it up?
would there be any harm in reusing the new fluid if I drain it into a clean receptacle? What about the new gasket? Many many thanks
02-07-2023, 10:36 PM
