To add a bit to the above, it's not just for the OP's benefit when they pose a problem/question and seek a resolution. We all learn more on what works, what doesn't, what to avoid, what the true cost is, etc. it's very helpful in fact.

Regarding your situation, of we knew more about the problem, others might be able to learn how ro recognize the symptoms before we drop a tranny, giving us a chance to fix it.

Does that help a bit?

 

I hear you, just didn't want to bore you all with a whole story.
Transmission was slipping, then sometimes not engage, then barely engage at all. All in the space of about 90 minutes. I called the extended warranty company, telling them I'd take it to my local LR dealer (why not, I'm covered, right?). Well I allowed them to talk me out of that, and take it to an AAMCO outlet.
Maybe they were trained by regional manager mentioned by Savannah Buzz:
They told me what the codes were, as well as descriptions, but I didn't absorb it. I'd expected to see some kind of repair estimate with the codes on it. In the meantime, warranty company gave them the go ahead - but they were only paying part of the bill. By the time I'd discovered they'd started repair, too late.
Been completely unable to get that code information since which, coupled with the previously mentioned "strip and repair transmission" bill, leaves me with little doubt that I got taken, and frankly feel pretty silly.
Finally, just today I was having oil changed at my local friendly mechanic, looked up at the underside of the exhaust, and can clearly see that there's no way that exhaust has been taken off recently. As I mentioned earlier, I only know pretty basic stuff, but looks to me like it'd be a heck of a job to get that transmission out without removing exhaust. He was of same opinion. (He was on vacation when problem arose).
Total bill was just over $3k. I don't think that's necessarily high for a transmission rebuild, just not sure they did a transmission rebuild.
That's about it. Nothing really to add to forum knowledge base, I'm afraid.
I've learned from the episode, and trying not to let it taint my LR3 experience.

 

No, not a bore; very helpful. Others will learn from your missteps.

You could check if the bottom of the transmission pan to see if it's new or not; the filter and pan are one piece and would have been replaced.

 

Hello,I brought a 2000 disco II,and I had to replace the front DR shaft.The car start but it will not go on reverse or forward.I put the 4 wheel gear on H I even tried L.It seem like it want to go,because it jerk.I was wondering... could this be signs of trans problem?

 

Where does the transmission flue-it goes?

 

Ripped off is a relative term.

When I had what I regarded as a routine tranny oil and filter change at about 126,000 km, (78,000 miles), it cost me about $800 from an independent. I regarded this as a good price; all went well and if anyone got ripped off, it was the independent.

His comment was "These Land Rovers are different". By different he meant not easy like as a Mercedes or Audie - a lot more time consuming. As he said, it was good that the workers he had assigned to the oil change were Land Rover devotees. Also he used the genuine LR tranny oil; initially he was boasting that he buys oil by the barrel, but something spooked him and he bought the 6 quarts or so from my LR dealer.

My LR dealer was also happy as he wanted about $1,500 for the same oil/filter change and was relieved to hear that I had taken it elsewhere - actually the same shop he sublets to when the going gets tough. At that time, the dealer was also still suffering from an LR2 tranny oil change that went bad a few weeks back.

None of this fix stuff is easy, certain or cheap any longer.

 

Sounds like a valve body they put in.

 

Newer automatic transmissions such as the ZF 6HP26X do not have a transmission dip stick, hence the primary way to put oil in the transmission is thru a little threaded hole located somewhere on the transmission itself similar to if you were filling a differential or transfer case.

As such, putting the right amount of oil in is a real skill if not art; too much is worse, and not enough is bad. It is not a do it yourself thing, at least not for me.

 

we rebuild these all the time at our shop. 50% of the time its a burnt shift solenoid the other 50% is a new valve body (not the whole ecu) we replace the valve body and new torque converter your good to go parts repair you are looking at 2000 plus fluid and installation if its the actual valve body. if its a solenoid your looking at parts of $200 not incluiding labor or fluid.

 

I have a 2005 Land Rover LR3, v8, that has the check engine light on and is signaling the transmission. It does slip in 2nd gear and the machine at the mechanic indicate gear 3 and 4. Truthfully it still drives pretty darn good and you can barely notice. My question is, every mechanic I take it to says they cannot rebuild the transmission but will have to put a new one in, which would be $6k. Since this is an older vehicle with 141k miles that doesn't make much sense for us to do it. Am I getting the correct advice? Is there not a way to rebuild a transmission in this type of vehicle? Thanks in advance for all your help!