I've looked at multiple threads on this - need to service both my LR3 and L322. Similar in servicing requirements.

Two burning questions:

1) Qty of Fluid - AB's video on the L322 suggested filling, getting to temp, and then watching the drain of liquid until it turns from a slow trickle to drops. Is this generally the same procedure for any ZF transmission? How do you accurately tell "when is enough"?

2) With the LR3 pan conversion, i take it is assumed there is MORE fluid required over the straight OEM plastic replacement. Fill to above?

Thanks,

 

I've already read the opposite of #2. The metal pan does not allow as much fluid.

 

Pan size is irrelevant for the purposes of filling since its filled to the same point, but yes the metal pan as a lesser capacity.

 

AH ok - thanks.

I think I have read so many threads, I was getting confused.

For refill procedure - is it fill, then get to temp, then top up? That part isn't clear to me.

 

Yeah, that will work. The key is to get it warmed up, but not too hot, and leave the fill plug open and only close it when there is still a little drop as you watched the AB video.

Although I never understand why people claim the transmission is so sensitive to proper fill. I mean you dont want to be far off, of course, but unless these are driven on perfectly flat ground the precise filling seems silly. You would think when doing a 40 degree climb the trans would give out. And I did calculations based on transmission fluid expansion from cold to warm, etc. The difference is something like a sixteenth of a quart at best. But whatever. The only time I heard of an actual issues is when the trans is quarts low on fluid.

 

Just thought i'd share this...

In my search for ATF fluid here in Canada, I came across this at the local parts store:

https://klondikelubricants.com/wp-co...id-PDS.pdf.pdf

Apparently, this covers Mercon SP and ZF as used on the BMW with the same transmission. Its also Shell M-1375.4 compatible.

Thing is, up here, the proper transmission stuff is redic. expensive. So am thinking of using this at 7.99 a litre instead of 17.99 for Mercon SP or ZF Lifeguard.

 

I just did mine on LR3 4.0 V6, and I converted to the metal pan, dropped the mechatronics (shifting brain) to replace the bridge seal and 4x tube seals, and replaced the connector plug, The metal pan will take 1 quart less than metal (Plastic 4.5 quart vs Plastic 5.5 quarts), Its quite challenging to drop the oil pan, doing this on a lift is advised as you'll need remove the rear trans mount and lift the transfer case to access the rear pan bolts and drain plugs. The front pan bolts are also quite challenging to remove them a stubby or short torx sockets is recommended.

One word of caution if using the metal pan, you cannot use the original filler plug on the side of the transmission because you'll under fill by 3 quarts, and accessing the filling port on the metal is very difficult because of the exhaust pipe and frame crossmember, however there is a very accessible solution to fill the transmission and that is thru the transmission oil cooler by the radiator. Its located on the driver side, the return hose is on the top and held in by a screw hose clamp, pop that out get your self a 1 gallon garden sprayer, remove the wand/sprayer, wedge the end of the sprayer into the cooler return line and fill. I didnt check the level after, I measure out how much i got out, subtract 1 quart for metal pan, (I had 6.5 quart removed from dropping the valve body and the torque converter was slowly streaming out fluid continuously) Pump it in and call it good, didn't do a temperature level measure because and very difficult to undo the fill plug due to space limitations and piping hot exhaust runs where your hands needs to be at.

 

I did my metal pan almost 3 years ago.

I'll be that guy who says - I am not convinced the capacity is a full quart less for metal over plastic. I think they are the same - or negligible.

Is there documentation, or somebody who has done a definitive capacity comparison to show the actual difference, if any?

If there is, I haven't seen one - please point me to it and I will admit I was wrong.

 

from where can I download LR3 transmission diagrams?

 

Wow. So that sort of explanation makes me want to NOT do it.

I get it - easy - but am just so nervous about messing up and breaking things.

I just did, for the first time the brakes on my L322. That was worrisome enough for me.

I have to replace the brakes and callipers on my LR3. I'm thinking this may be someone else's job...hahaha.