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[you cannot use the original filler plug on the side of the transmission because you'll under fill by 3 quarts,]
Not sure that is correct as when I did mine I used the original filler plug to fill the system. I filled the system put filler plug in, then once warm, the secret to filling is make sure engine is running whilst you top it up. Which cannot be done with the hose off method.
I just did mine on LR3 4.0 V6, and I converted to the metal pan, dropped the mechatronics (shifting brain) to replace the bridge seal and 4x tube seals, and replaced the connector plug, The metal pan will take 1 quart less than metal (Plastic 4.5 quart vs Plastic 5.5 quarts), Its quite challenging to drop the oil pan, doing this on a lift is advised as you'll need remove the rear trans mount and lift the transfer case to access the rear pan bolts and drain plugs. The front pan bolts are also quite challenging to remove them a stubby or short torx sockets is recommended.
One word of caution if using the metal pan, you cannot use the original filler plug on the side of the transmission because you'll under fill by 3 quarts, and accessing the filling port on the metal is very difficult because of the exhaust pipe and frame crossmember, however there is a very accessible solution to fill the transmission and that is thru the transmission oil cooler by the radiator. Its located on the driver side, the return hose is on the top and held in by a screw hose clamp, pop that out get your self a 1 gallon garden sprayer, remove the wand/sprayer, wedge the end of the sprayer into the cooler return line and fill. I didnt check the level after, I measure out how much i got out, subtract 1 quart for metal pan, (I had 6.5 quart removed from dropping the valve body and the torque converter was slowly streaming out fluid continuously) Pump it in and call it good, didn't do a temperature level measure because and very difficult to undo the fill plug due to space limitations and piping hot exhaust runs where your hands needs to be at.
Folks, don't follow this recommendation. The OP went through all the work of replacing the needed seals but can't be bothered with checking the fluid level properly? Yes, it is a pain in the a$$, but is necessary. No, it doesn't need to be perfect, but you have to know if your close. Get the vehicle level, run the vehicle to off road height, get your jack stands under the frame, put on a mechanics glove and a long sleeve shirt so you don't burn your skin on the exhaust and just get it done. BTW, I use Amalie full synthetic transmission fluid. 25k with this fluid and no issues.
^ Agreed. It makes no sense to go beyond the proper fill level no matter the sump size. Technically the sump size is irrelevant, the proper fill level is what is correct. Take an engine for example, too much oil will allow the crank to splash hard into the oil. This creates foam. Foam means bubbles the oil. That oil is harder for the pump to circulate and before you know it you have an engine with too much oil that is actually starving for it. I would think the transmission could have some sorta similar issue.
Folks, don't follow this recommendation. The OP went through all the work of replacing the needed seals but can't be bothered with checking the fluid level properly? Yes, it is a pain in the a$$, but is necessary. No, it doesn't need to be perfect, but you have to know if your close. Get the vehicle level, run the vehicle to off road height, get your jack stands under the frame, put on a mechanics glove and a long sleeve shirt so you don't burn your skin on the exhaust and just get it done. BTW, I use Amalie full synthetic transmission fluid. 25k with this fluid and no issues.
I would have checked the level but i don't have any clearances with the metal pan fill/level hole position, even if i could the rear transmission mount had to be removed and the TC be lifted to access the filler plug on the metal hence would have been not leveled and inaccurate, that's why when that route where i measure all the i've drained and added 100ml more just to be sure, I have done a quite a few ZF 5hp 6hp and 8hp and a few mercedes 722.9 transmission and have always used an vehicle specific diagnostic to check the temp with engine running and remove the fill port, but for the land rover it was not feasibly possible.
