U0167 Code: Hard Reset Not Fixing the issue
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 38
From: North Georgia
As a side note, best service for Cluster
I’m going to now send one of my now 2 cluster to have it serviced/repaired/reconditioned and the solder joints refloated.
any good reliable reputable recommendations out there?
any good reliable reputable recommendations out there?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 822
Likes: 133
From: Collins, Missouri
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 38
From: North Georgia
Well, after a long drive to drop off a truck to my son, I took off the CJB and noticed water stains on it. cleaned out the sunroof drains because contrary to what my son said, the carpet around the CJB was wet. Nasty sludge came out of the drains.
Cleaned off the CJB the best I could with rubbing alcohol, connected the CJB and the LR3 cranked right up.
Packed a cooler and started the drive back to Georgia hot fueling the truck the entire way.
I got all the way past Kansas City before the truck started acting up again. Kept pushing thru and finally have the in my garage so I can start the process of tearing the truck apart to fix all drains and might as well refinish the head liner which was sagging real bad.
So, what is the best way to secure a new or newish CJB? New? A good used one from Goldwing or RLparts? How would I know a used one hasn't been compromised with water in the past?
Cleaned off the CJB the best I could with rubbing alcohol, connected the CJB and the LR3 cranked right up.
Packed a cooler and started the drive back to Georgia hot fueling the truck the entire way.
I got all the way past Kansas City before the truck started acting up again. Kept pushing thru and finally have the in my garage so I can start the process of tearing the truck apart to fix all drains and might as well refinish the head liner which was sagging real bad.
So, what is the best way to secure a new or newish CJB? New? A good used one from Goldwing or RLparts? How would I know a used one hasn't been compromised with water in the past?
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 266
From: Melbourne, Australia.
As far as i'm aware you cant program a used a CJB, you either buy a new expensive unit from LR thats vin coded to your car or you fit a used CJB and all the modules that are related to it from the donor vehicle.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 822
Likes: 133
From: Collins, Missouri
CJB programing
You CAN however clone a used one. I bought a used CJB (part number must match), sent it to a place in Florida and they cloned all of the info onto the used CJB and it works flawlessly. I did not need to change any other ECU's.
Based upon your fault codes, I suspect either the IC is bad or there is a break in the medium CAN BUS between the IC and the HVAC control head. (the CJB is at the end of the medium CAN BUS so any break in the wires will take it off line).
Try checking for resistance between pins 3 & 11 in the ODB socket. If you get no resistance or 120 Ohms, you may have a break in the wires somewhere.
Hope this helps
Jeff
Last edited by Rufflyer; Sep 13, 2025 at 08:02 AM.
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 38
From: North Georgia
You can only program a "new" CJB. Problem is..... getting a new one. I was told by multiple venders that it may take as long as a month depending on Land Rover contractor production schedule.
You CAN however clone a used one. I bought a used CJB (part number must match), sent it to a place in Florida and they cloned all of the info onto the used CJB and it works flawlessly. I did not need to change any other ECU's.
Based upon your fault codes, I suspect either the IC is bad or there is a break in the medium CAN BUS between the IC and the HVAC control head. (the CJB is at the end of the medium CAN BUS so any break in the wires will take it off line).
Try checking for resistance between pins 3 & 11 in the ODB socket. If you get no resistance or 120 Ohms, you may have a break in the wires somewhere.
Hope this helps
Jeff
You CAN however clone a used one. I bought a used CJB (part number must match), sent it to a place in Florida and they cloned all of the info onto the used CJB and it works flawlessly. I did not need to change any other ECU's.
Based upon your fault codes, I suspect either the IC is bad or there is a break in the medium CAN BUS between the IC and the HVAC control head. (the CJB is at the end of the medium CAN BUS so any break in the wires will take it off line).
Try checking for resistance between pins 3 & 11 in the ODB socket. If you get no resistance or 120 Ohms, you may have a break in the wires somewhere.
Hope this helps
Jeff
Does this seem about right?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 822
Likes: 133
From: Collins, Missouri
ODB / Instrument Cluster Pinouts
The Medium CAN BUS is tested on pins 3 & 11.
The (HIGH) CAB BUS is tested on 6 & 14
The way this works:
The Instrument cluster has a 120 Ohm resister ( think of it as the "server").
The CAN BUS has a 120 Ohm resister in the ABS module (at the end of the string)
The medium CAN BUS has a 120 Ohm resister in the CJB (at the end of the string)
When working normally, the two resisters are in parallel and when tested should show 60 Ohms.
IF there is an open wire (or bad module along the string) it should read 120 Ohms.
IF there is a short it should read 120 Ohms (depending upon the issue).
IF you get no resistance between these pins it may indicate a break in the wires between the ODB socket and the IC or a failure of some circuit in the IC.
Based upon your latest fault codes, it shows failure for both the CAN BUS and Medium CAN BUS so I would look at the connectors and wiring on the Instrument cluster again. The connector on the back of the cluster has pins 1 & 2 as the CAN BUS and pins 16 & 17 as the Medium CAN BUS.
I would approach this diagnostic endeavor in this order:
1. Trace the wires for ODB 6 & 14 to IC pins 1 & 2; then ODB pins 3 & 11 to IC pins 16 & 17 to confirm there is no wiring issue.
2. With the ignition on (and the engine off), check the ODB pins for resistance.
3. With the engine on check the ODB pins for resistance.
4. Clear fault codes and recheck with engine running.
Let us know what the new fault codes show.
Hope this helps
Jeff
General Disclaimer: I may be wrong
P.S. If you send your cluster in for servicing, make sure it is a place that can do diagnostics and performance checks rather than just refloating the soldier joints and calling it fixed.
The (HIGH) CAB BUS is tested on 6 & 14
The way this works:
The Instrument cluster has a 120 Ohm resister ( think of it as the "server").
The CAN BUS has a 120 Ohm resister in the ABS module (at the end of the string)
The medium CAN BUS has a 120 Ohm resister in the CJB (at the end of the string)
When working normally, the two resisters are in parallel and when tested should show 60 Ohms.
IF there is an open wire (or bad module along the string) it should read 120 Ohms.
IF there is a short it should read 120 Ohms (depending upon the issue).
IF you get no resistance between these pins it may indicate a break in the wires between the ODB socket and the IC or a failure of some circuit in the IC.
Based upon your latest fault codes, it shows failure for both the CAN BUS and Medium CAN BUS so I would look at the connectors and wiring on the Instrument cluster again. The connector on the back of the cluster has pins 1 & 2 as the CAN BUS and pins 16 & 17 as the Medium CAN BUS.
I would approach this diagnostic endeavor in this order:
1. Trace the wires for ODB 6 & 14 to IC pins 1 & 2; then ODB pins 3 & 11 to IC pins 16 & 17 to confirm there is no wiring issue.
2. With the ignition on (and the engine off), check the ODB pins for resistance.
3. With the engine on check the ODB pins for resistance.
4. Clear fault codes and recheck with engine running.
Let us know what the new fault codes show.
Hope this helps
Jeff
General Disclaimer: I may be wrong
P.S. If you send your cluster in for servicing, make sure it is a place that can do diagnostics and performance checks rather than just refloating the soldier joints and calling it fixed.
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 38
From: North Georgia
The Medium CAN BUS is tested on pins 3 & 11.
The (HIGH) CAB BUS is tested on 6 & 14
The way this works:
The Instrument cluster has a 120 Ohm resister ( think of it as the "server").
The CAN BUS has a 120 Ohm resister in the ABS module (at the end of the string)
The medium CAN BUS has a 120 Ohm resister in the CJB (at the end of the string)
When working normally, the two resisters are in parallel and when tested should show 60 Ohms.
IF there is an open wire (or bad module along the string) it should read 120 Ohms.
IF there is a short it should read 120 Ohms (depending upon the issue).
IF you get no resistance between these pins it may indicate a break in the wires between the ODB socket and the IC or a failure of some circuit in the IC.
Based upon your latest fault codes, it shows failure for both the CAN BUS and Medium CAN BUS so I would look at the connectors and wiring on the Instrument cluster again. The connector on the back of the cluster has pins 1 & 2 as the CAN BUS and pins 16 & 17 as the Medium CAN BUS.
I would approach this diagnostic endeavor in this order:
1. Trace the wires for ODB 6 & 14 to IC pins 1 & 2; then ODB pins 3 & 11 to IC pins 16 & 17 to confirm there is no wiring issue.
2. With the ignition on (and the engine off), check the ODB pins for resistance.
3. With the engine on check the ODB pins for resistance.
4. Clear fault codes and recheck with engine running.
Let us know what the new fault codes show.
Hope this helps
Jeff
General Disclaimer: I may be wrong
P.S. If you send your cluster in for servicing, make sure it is a place that can do diagnostics and performance checks rather than just refloating the soldier joints and calling it fixed.
The (HIGH) CAB BUS is tested on 6 & 14
The way this works:
The Instrument cluster has a 120 Ohm resister ( think of it as the "server").
The CAN BUS has a 120 Ohm resister in the ABS module (at the end of the string)
The medium CAN BUS has a 120 Ohm resister in the CJB (at the end of the string)
When working normally, the two resisters are in parallel and when tested should show 60 Ohms.
IF there is an open wire (or bad module along the string) it should read 120 Ohms.
IF there is a short it should read 120 Ohms (depending upon the issue).
IF you get no resistance between these pins it may indicate a break in the wires between the ODB socket and the IC or a failure of some circuit in the IC.
Based upon your latest fault codes, it shows failure for both the CAN BUS and Medium CAN BUS so I would look at the connectors and wiring on the Instrument cluster again. The connector on the back of the cluster has pins 1 & 2 as the CAN BUS and pins 16 & 17 as the Medium CAN BUS.
I would approach this diagnostic endeavor in this order:
1. Trace the wires for ODB 6 & 14 to IC pins 1 & 2; then ODB pins 3 & 11 to IC pins 16 & 17 to confirm there is no wiring issue.
2. With the ignition on (and the engine off), check the ODB pins for resistance.
3. With the engine on check the ODB pins for resistance.
4. Clear fault codes and recheck with engine running.
Let us know what the new fault codes show.
Hope this helps
Jeff
General Disclaimer: I may be wrong
P.S. If you send your cluster in for servicing, make sure it is a place that can do diagnostics and performance checks rather than just refloating the soldier joints and calling it fixed.
Have one of these coming in today
OBD2 OBDII 16Pin Male Connector to Open Pigtail Wire, 5ft 1.5m OBD Diagnostic Extension Replacement Cable for Vehicle DIY
Last edited by cybercop; Sep 14, 2025 at 12:04 PM.