Problem progression in order:

1. My 2006 LR3 (112,000 miles) was lowering in the front about 2 inches every night. So I replaced the front EAS module (crosslink valve). It fixed the Front left lowering, but now the front right is lowering alone.

2. Next I took it into my LR mechanic and they could not see a leak the strut. They reprogrammed and recalibrated my air suspension thinking that would fix it.

3. Now, the front right strut and rear right side strut of the vehicle is lowering over night while the left side stays normal. The compressor is new and the front EAS valve.

ANY Ideas, I hate to keep throwing money just to try and find the issue. No fault codes either.

HELLLPPPP!!

 

The advice I have seen on some of the other forums is to remove the EAS fuse and see if the vehicle lowers again overnight. If it does, then that would indicate an air leak as opposed to the suspension trying to recalibrate height. Even if the vehicle is parked up, I'm told that it wakes up every couple of hours to verify the height - maybe a height sensor issue...but would help to know if it's not a leak....

 

Yes, I did that yesterday, pulled the F3 fuse and the right side of the vehichle still dropped. I highly doubt the front and back struts are leaking and the EAS valve all within a week of each other. My certified LR tech told me he has never replaced a strut on the LR3. So should I seek a second opinion?

 

I'd check the voss connector on the hose leading to the right side of the vehicle. (Coming from the front valve block)

 

I believe there are more fuses involved than just that one. I don't remember them off hand but they are labeled pretty clearly on the fuse box.

Also, the struts on the LR3 are NOT indestructible. I know that first hand. I replaced mine this past summer at about 103k miles. I will point out though that up until then there was no pronounced "droop" in any corner as you are describing.

 

The link below is to some files I have on the air system.

About halfway down the link page, you will see line/block diagrams for the air system that are pretty easy to understand - well after a few hours of study. There are also files re the Voss air line connectors that you have to know about as well since they are very German and not common to North America.

There is also a link at the bottom of the post for the electrical drawings etc that you can download and print up.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - FASKIT Air Suspension Installation

Needless to say, I suspect that you have a leak somewhere rather than an electrical problem. Leaks are easier to find than electrical problems so be happy.

There is an auto level program that is like a zombie - never quits and only shows itself at night when all is supposed to be asleep. If you do not have a cross and stake handy, the next best solution is pulling fuse 26 in the engine compartment fuse box. This depowers the suspension computer and all the block valves so that none can open electrically. The only way air can get out then is via a leak - perhaps in an air line or perhaps in an air spring. The air springs rarely blow, but they can develop a slow leak. The air lines sometimes develop a crack in them due to heat or movement. The block valves sometimes just do not seal.

With the fuse pulled, I suspect only one corner will drop. If so, with the line diagram, that will tell you roughly where the leak is. If two wheels go down and the fuse is pulled, you know it is not the auto level function trying to make all good and as such, then the leak is somewhere common to both affected wheels.


Electrical drawings are per this link.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch