I have read quite a few threads that talk about how sensitive the LR3 is to voltage fluctuations... I am no electronics tech but is there not a way to create a module that would help regulate the voltage downstream from the battery?

 

It already does have a fancy voltage regulator between the alternator and battery but I see what you're saying. Just keep the alternator and battery in good shape and you should be fine. That or start adding switches to fuses that can be safely disabled in an emergency to keep electrical draw lower in those situations

 

Is the oem alternator under amped? And more importantly, can we source a better one?

 

Installed an alternator from Napa, non-OEM, works fine. Also did non-OEM starter, that too works fine.

 

Does anyone know the voltage output of the oem alt?

 

Within the link below as a number of alternator and regulator files.

I gather by the thinking of today's auto electric engineers, there is not a problem, and the fact that the vehicles battery never gets fully charged is just the way it is when the primary consideration is emissions/mileage regulations.

Once upon a time, the vehicles regulator took its instructions from the battery; now the regulator listens to the car computer, and decides from that, what it should tell the alternator to do or not to do.

Generally the programming is such that engine rpm is never to be raised from idle just to charge the battery; perhaps yes, to run the air conditioner, but definitely not for the battery.

Load shedding - that is shutting off the heated seats, entertainment system amp, windscreen and or steering wheel is a favorite fix rather than increasing charge rate.

Regarding a full battery charge, why is the question, as long as engine starts.

As to decreased systems voltage, the various system computers seem to have poor voltage converters. Most of the on board computers are designed to run at +5VDC but for some reason, if system voltage is less than about 13.5 VDC, then the computers seem to run at less than +5VDC and become unhappy.

I think the car computer would need reprogramming rather than any change in alternator or regulator. You could have Grande Coulee Dam in the engine compartment and the car computer would still not allow the battery to get a full charge or the systems to run at optimum voltage.

To answer the question with regards to "voltage output of the OEM alternator", the output is what the engine computer allows.
The system voltage normally varies from 13.3 volts to 14.9 volts depending upon any number of variables as determined by the engine computer. The alternator and regulator have no part in the decision - they just do as they are told.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous

 

FWIW Denso is the OEM alternator

Now that I have a new alternator I have yet to experience any more voltage issues

 

Thanx Bbyer for that informative, if somewhat disconcerting, explanation.


I work in Aerospace and while our engineers are typically top notch, every once and a while, there comes down the pipe something that makes you say.."whaaa?"