As my title says I am a bit beyond myself right now. I do most all of my own work but this one has me baffled! 2008 LR3 HSE with 190,000 miles on the clock. Well loved and cared for.

This LR3 got a new Arnott pump in September. I am wondering if I should just buy all new valves and ride height sensors and replace all of it or start with one until I get something to work? I fear my issue may have burned out this new pump. The left side of the vehicle will not raise to off road height although the right side is there and the system has it defaulted to that.

I took my LR3 for a 10 mile drive to warm it up as it had been sitting or doing short trips of less than 2 miles. We are in wintry Minnesota. After I got done driving the 10 miles I was still sitting inside the running vehicle but not moving when my suspension started acting up. The dash said Extended Off Road Height! Then a screen came up telling me to clear obstructions and reset the suspension! Well I crawled into the snow and under the Landy only to find NO obstructions and my suspension is at the highest level of height I have ever seen....at least in the rear. I have the iLand from Atlantic British and plugged that in and cleared codes. It's a Landy...there are always SOME codes right? Well it didn't help me with suspension. It did clear the code but the vehicle will not lower from extended off road. I went into special functions and told it to air down the system and it lowered the front end left and rear but left the rear right in extended off road mode! Been checking wiring and cannot find any issues there. The ride height sensors move freely when I disconnect the top of the control rod. I believe there is a lot of pressure in the system but I cannot get it to air down by removing ANY of my air lines including the one on the top of the air spring. It looks like it has a check valve that is under a LOT of pressure and I cannot move it to release any air. I have disconnected air lines from the middle control valve body and get NO air leaking out from there either! I removed air lines from the pump as well with the same result! I have seen vehicle raising slowly on the dash more than once.

I am at a loss here. Can anybody shed some light on this type of issue? Seems that with all of the suspension issues I found here most of them were at the bump stops or even in normal ride height but I am stuck in extended off road height. I did take it down the road to see if it would force the Landy to lower at speed and it did....on one side! Now it will not air up to level the drivers side! Oh and I forgot to say that at some point in this process the suspension fault light came on red and I cannot clear it to start over again. I think if maybe I drain the system of air again by opening the pressure supply tank maybe when it refilled the Landy might at least go level but at this point I don't even want to chance that.

The code that is throwing is C1A00-54 and says it relates to the Ride Height Control valve....but really in these things I am wondering if it isn't either a ride height sensor or one of the valve bodies? I am willing to do the work and buy quality parts....has anyone here experienced this very issue? Any helpful suggestions are welcome...and thank you in advance!

 

From the LR shop manual, it looks like your first thing to try is calibrating the suspension. Is the iLand tool able to do that?

 

The iLand is able to if I could get the Rover to normal ride height. I tried it as is and it faults out due to the excessive height.

 

Ok then. Two options I see:

1) Use Live Value testing feature to open the valve solenoid on the high struts and lower them to approximately level with the normal height strut.

2) Open the air hose coming out of the valve block solenoid to the offending struts and bleed the excess are out that way. If you do this method be sure to put some jack stands under the car so you don’t get pinched.

 

You gotta dump the system and calibrate. I don't get, however, why disconnection an airline from atop a strut would cause no air to come out. Was ANY other work done to the truck involving the suspension besides the compressor?

 

Not recently. The air strut that is acting up was replaced 4 years ago. Arnott brand. We have had no issues other than the compressor previously with the suspension system. I took my phone and made a short video and it sure looks like there is a brass check valve plugging up the hole under where the air line was connected.

 

There should be no check valve, just the line fitting. If there was a check valve the strut would never lower, ever, since the day that strut was installed. When new there is an insert into the line "port" on the strut, but that is removed and if not there is no way the line would go in.

FYI, the fitting on the trust looks like this:




Source:
https://arnottinfo.com/manuals/web/R...ta/AS-2762.xml

 

You said the height sensors move freely…. They should move more like they are stuck on peanut butter. Not real loose in other words…

you stated left side was down but right side up….this gives me a thought that it’s the center valve block

I would put the truck on Jack stands, and release the air from the airline on that strut or at the center valve block. Then go through the recalibrate procedure and test from there

 

I pulled the air lines from the cener air block and got NO air coming out or anything airing down. Also removed 3 lines from the air pump and got no results. Also currently have the line removed from the top of the air spring and it has sat overnight in a heated garage and it is still way high! I wonder if something happens to the internals of the air spring when it gets the amount of pressure to lift it to extended off road height? I dunno.....I know I have to get it to NORMAL ride height to reset the height calibration.

 

Center block ONLY holds back reservoir air. It will have zero to do with front/rear struts as it controls no flow to them at all. If you pulled the center and got no air that means the reservoir was empty or leaks and that the gallery was empty.

The two larger lines on the pump never hold pressure, they are just intake/exhaust. The third smaller connects to the center block and is just part of the gallery.

How does the rear bag itself feel? Maybe something is indeed plugged in the port. Try poking it with a small metal probe? You should be able to remove the port itself form the strut - again, make sure vehicle is supported! It is also possible the internal shock has failed and bound up somehow.