Was given this rhino rack that was missing the 3 mounting ribs, bought some alloy tube the right size and sleeved it for reinforcement and fitted it up with some legs i bought a few years ago.
I wanted it low but still be able to clean the glass roof, came with some maxtraxs mounts and now i need to make some brackets for my 42" LED light bar.
Also have some rhino kayak mounts that fir the rack.

 

Rip and Replace the T-case with a used one from a 2008 LR3 with 100K on it.
So after having the liberty last week to work on my Land Rover. I replaced the T-case under the 2005 LR3 with a 2008 box.
On Thursday had the transfer case was accidentally pushed onto my hand. Broke a finger for sure. But today I can finally say after reinstalling the Change Range Solenoid, as soon as I figured out how to energize it, and hooked it back in the T piece inside the transfer case.

The worst part of the whole job was not having the right tools, figuring out what I had to do to make the tool (Got me a rechargeable grinder though) to do the Transfer to Transmission bolts. Removal of the t case breather tube, etc.

 

Got my truck washed for the first time in months and put my roof box on. Finally starting to look how I want it, next will hopefully be some tint for the windows because black leather interior is not fun on sunny days. Also considering painting the stainless side bars black and putting them back on. Current setup is 255/70/18's with about 1.5" front lift and 0.5" in the back.

 

Took it wheeling at MAR for the weekend and had a blast

 

Checked and cleaned my primary ground circuits, engine side and the through stud connection under the fender liner, chasing an intermittent no start and miscellaneous error messages that are not real. Looks like all is OK now, started about 12 consecutive times and no problems, will post a separate thread on what was done. Photo is under the fender liner stud connection after removing acorn nut, if problem not solved will report back...

 

I noticed my steering has been very stiff. After doing some research it sounded like it could be a seized u joint at the end of the lower steering column where it connects to the steering rack.

I ordered an OEM lower steering shaft from Lucky 8. It was the cheaper version than the genuine equipment replacement.

I was able to get the old one out. The new one I was able to get the bolt back in on top but had trouble getting the bolt in at the bottom by the steering rack. I was doing the work outside in the driveway and it started getting dark so I put the wheel back on and I’ll try again in the morning when I can see a little better. I think I just need to slide it on a little farther until the hole is lined up with a slot in the connecting rod. The after market attachment is a little different than the original part. Hopefully I can get it attached tomorrow. If I did it again I’d pay a little more for the genuine replacement so the fit may go together a little easier.

I’ll update how it goes tomorrow.

 

I have used both genuine and aftermarket they are both a bit annoying to line up

 

If its cheaper, its probably not OEM since the only OEM version is genuine as far as I know. Also even Lucky 8 does not say the cheap one is OEM on their site. When repacking it helps to remove the wheel well liner, at least I think I did when I did mine - been a long time - anyway you can access the lower bolt easily enough from the wheel well area.

 

re-did my DRL with new 100mm COB that come with a defuser. These are also a little warmer (better match) than the ebay rings I had before:


Link:

 

Are both rings 100mm ?