Where I had the problem was attaching to the rear tow point. It was a combination of the clevis being wide enough to get over the tow loop and then rotate within. Probably just me, I suppose!

To repeat, I do like the yellow colour.

 

Not what I did today but in the last 3 weeks I've changed the brakes all round, new steering rack and tie rods, rear sway bar links, new battery, new cabin and air filter, new drive shaft, new tires, new relay and got me some lug nuts that fit a socket.


Next on the list is fluid changes front, rear and middle, new air tank, rebuild compressor, clean front air block, fluid film the entire underside of the truck, flush brake lines and purchase a class iv hitch from unseenone. That should do me for a while....

 

That's a lot of work! Just out of curiosity, did the relay happen to help with your compressor issue or are you still experiencing the same symptoms?

Also, how easy/difficult did you find the tie rod replacement? I've got mine sitting in the garage and probably need to do it next weekend.

 

The relay seemed to help the issue... no issues so far.


As far as doing the tierods, I've been blessed with a master mechanic friend of mine doing the work in his home shop with lift. 30 years experience with extreme attention to detail and extremely quick and efficient. The list above between me and him has run me 3 bones.

 

So yesterday my 2 month old alternator from auto zone **** the bed in north Virginia on i95, I limped it a few hours back to dads place down there

This morning I swap out the alt. Warranty from store, ever things good, belts look fine, no noises, we head to jersey, 40 miles into Maryland on 301 the alt. Belt shreds WTF its a 2 month old Goodyear gator back, to I get to a small gas station garage engine boiled over, tell the guy my belts gone he says well I can't get one today, I say I have one, ( kept old one) his guy puts it on 2 hours trying to figure it out refusing my direction, he gets it done, dumps green coolant in the tank puts cap on pulls it outside and leaves it run, walks over gives me the jug, I said needs Dex cool, he says this is universal we don't have Dex cool, I say I got it in the truck, oh well its out there running and walks off, I go out and gauge is pinned overheating, I pop the top and it goes all over so I slowly dumped the entire gallon in self bled and cooled right off

So I payed 50 to get the belt put on and ruin my cooling system, but we are home now so...., at least the owner let me use a hose to wash off all the coolant


If there was more to it than that it was gonna be towed 40 miles to rover in Annapolis, I was not gonna let them f with it

 

I think I would be counting the number of grooves on the new alternator pulley. It is probably right now, but ......

The number will be either five, six or seven, but whatever it is, it best be the same number of grooves as the belt and the other pulleys.

I say that as, much as you, my second alternator lasted maybe a week and then the internal regulator quit.

The third lasted about five minutes as it started to shred the belt. The good news was a new belt, (again), (that took a few hours), and the installation of the pulley, (a few minutes), off the second alternator, plus the time to remove and reinstall.

Fortunately, I have not had any cooling system problems .... yet!

Last oil change, I told the guys they were going to have to actually put some orange stuff in, and not be fooled by the orange staining of the reservoir that makes it look like it is full. One has to look at the side and rock the truck, not just glance at the stained top of the reservoir.

... and I thought Dex Cool was universal - Land Rovers are not easy to own. You are wise to carry Dex Cool as a spare as somehow anything Land Rover speced seems hard to obtain when you need it - (hard to believe all GM uses it).

Given the "universal green", maybe it is time for a cooling system flush and perhaps a new thermostat housing assembly, part number LR005631.

 

That sounds miserable TOMR. I'm so OCD with my car that I have nightmares about taking it to your typical "know-nothing-about-land-rover" mechanics. I got 32" tires put on the other day, and as a result, I had to reroute the rear heater hoses in the car. After all was said and done, it must have taken me a good 60-90 minutes to bleed that damn system. It's not for the faint of heart or for those who are impatient or don't know the trucks. I imagine that's probably why your car was overheating after the mechanic touched it. It is extremely difficult to get all the air out of that cooling system.

As to why your belt shredded... do you think you may have put it on slightly askew or off by one tooth?

You guys have me a little worried about the alternator since I just replaced mine last month. I opted for a remanufactured Denso unit from Rock Auto since it was so cheap and it was OEM. We'll see how it fares I guess...

 

Its possible it was off a rib somewhere as you can't see everything when doing just the alt, but everything I saw was fine so I'm going with the belt took a ****, I would think it would shred before 40 miles and traffic if misaligned, plus I watched it on initial startup after the alt all seemed a ok

Don't recall the last one but this alt said den so on it

This guy did not attempt to bleed just dumped fluid and stuck outside rest was my problem

 

A few years back now, Land Rover quite selling their "factory rebuilt" alternators. They now only sell brand new. They were losing money on their dealer one year warranty repair arrangement.

To make you feel better, the third alternator that I referred to above is still running OK after about three years. It is a WAI/Wilson rebuilt. Basically you can purchase two or three of them for the price of a LR new alternator.

 

I did find it interesting that the diode heatsink on the rebuilt Denso alternator was significantly smaller than the heatsink on the factory LR alternator that came with the truck. I wonder if this has anything to do with the failures...