Yeah I think someone had slapped a 5w 168/194 into my front parking lights. I shouldn't have to worry with the Sylvania LED's as I've never seen them get anywhere near as hot.

I'm running Ceramic brake pads now and the brake dust is very very light now vs the Ferdo Pads it had on it when I bought it.

Yep I knew the RR had a 300LB diet on the LR3, but I'm better off sticking with a OEM LR wheel vs an aftermarket wheel. The specs on those are just awful.

 

In my case, the someone was me, and the W5W bulb was in a LR bag marked with the W3W part number; that is how I learned.

Ultimately, I also installed LED bulbs in the sidelights and door indicators.

I also have LED bulbs for the two backup lights but remain with the P21 variations for the tail, signal and brake lights as the computers will tend to indicate displeasure with anything else.

I similarly installed Akebono Ceramic pads to resolve the black dust concern.

I expect the Land Rover spec Made in Italy Cromodora wheels are all somewhat stronger than their markings indicate, a pleasant change from far east cloned stuff where the numbers are just for marketing purposes.

 

Yeah I left all the turn signal bulbs alone. I remember how my 97 RR would go nuts with anything that wasn't the exact spec bulb.

 

New tires arrived today for my 07 lr3 se V8. Falken wild peak A/T3-W in 265-60-18's

 

Are you sure eight is enough?

 

Lol. The other set is for the Jaguar. It's a set of general altimax arctic's. I run summer tires on her for three seasons.

 

Buying in bulk is the American way. Saves on shipping.

 

About once a year, I remove the drivers door handle key hole cover and cycle the lock with the key just to see if it still operates.

I figure lack of use will lead to it just freezing up over time and when you need it, well, it will not be operable.

Note the little rectangular hole in the bottom front, (underside), of the key hole cover. That is for inserting your key vertically upward all the way to disengage the plastic cover retainer bits.

With the cover removed, one then inserts the key into the hole and rotate it clockwise to lock and counterclockwise to unlock, or maybe it is vice versa.

Regardless, cycle the mechanism a few times just to prove to yourself that it still works.

Note I always keep the drivers window rolled down when playing about as it is possible to lock oneself out.

 

Bruce, I can see from that picture that your body side moulding needs addressing , true ?

 

I noticed that curling out when I was posting the jpg and the apparent degree surprised me. It is not as bad as it looks - maybe a fisheye effect of my BB camera.

I was going to make reference to the snow on the ground but I see my driveway is only damp from the removed snow. Colder weather tends to curl the ends of the molding and then in the summer month, the molding sort of flattens out again.

I have considered the application of some 3M molding adhesive to the problem but am not certain that would be a long term fix. I also thought about purchasing new moldings but figured the problem would just reappear - it is not something new in the last few years.

I guess what I do not do is drive my 3 thru one of those mechanical car washes; I use a wand wash where I for the most part, do the rubbing and spraying.

I guess the plan is to leave well enough alone re the moldings; also my Pirelli 235 65 R18 XL 110H Ice & Snow tyres are now on in place of the summer Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza 255 55 R19 111V XL.