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What Software or Firmware Updates Available LR3

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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 11:18 PM
  #21  
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Let us know abut the LR4 Bluetooth when ready
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 09:25 AM
  #22  
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When you get the GAP tool, check on this software update too:

 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 10:50 PM
  #23  
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I spoke to LR dealer in Central Fl, they won't work on an LR older than 2010... they refer out to indy. Heading down to S Fl and called dealer there. Service guy was good and said same as DakotaT, any rear locker malfunction should throw a code. Tech said, uncommon, only time he has seen a problem someplace and no code showed was when it had been erased when spotted previously but could look at stored history to tell. Said they be happy to run diagnostic for $200. Ask if the GAP tool could tell history and he said no, GAP tool was very limited. Hope to have time tomorrow to call GAP
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 10:53 PM
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Maybe it would help if you explained how you think the rear diff should function. Because to me is sounds like you think the diff itself is the business end of things, that is the diff mechanically detects improper wheel spin and then somehow locks the clutches on its own - reporting back to the computer its locked which is reflected on the display.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 10:57 PM
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Tech also said if no code is thrown, it may not the system may not allow calibration.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
Maybe it would help if you explained how you think the rear diff should function. Because to me is sounds like you think the diff itself is the business end of things, that is the diff mechanically detects improper wheel spin and then somehow locks the clutches on its own - reporting back to the computer its locked which is reflected on the display.
No way I have your knowledge, but I do get computer is telling when to lock. Changes in terrain selection is telling computer what mix and amounts of input to send in response to many sensors. Something is slightly off or it would lock in obvious situations... but no codes. So is the tech right about maybe a code doesn't show? I really want to know the ability of GAP vs all I herd. Last, I have seen electric motors work but get weak and move slow, intermittently. or not to limit but work enough not to sound alarm.... Don't get mad Dakota, just throwing darts. My real question is the ability of that GAP tool. If GAP can upload, download, update, change options, see history, make keys, calibrate, diagnose all, got to have it.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 11:36 PM
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Never mentioned till now I think, the front parking aid sensors do not function, or heard possible are turned off. Also tire pressure warning is not showing. No codes. Vehicle checked two times and no codes.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 11:45 PM
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You forget one thing tough, traction control supersedes the lockers for the most part. They lock when needed but are not the first defense. Also of course you need to be in the correct mode of use. If you are in rock crawl, for example, but are going through sand or mud it won't lock as often because in rock crawl its expected slower speeds and looks more for articulation differences between wheels.

Im still connived there is no rear locker issue at all and its the way you are driving. Just because you think it should lock does not mean it should. There are times I expect mine to lock also and it does not, but it did not need to because the vehicle made it though the obstacle just fine.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 12:03 AM
  #29  
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I thought of that too...Newbie.... If thats the case, I wish it would lock sooner vs getting stuck. Also correct I have run it Rock Crawl in sand, but kept slow and did so only because could not get from A to B without getting stuck. Only could get get through when all locked in Rock Crawl. When rear lock once, usually in Rock Crawl, she locks in Sand mode perfectly.
 

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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 12:11 AM
  #30  
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Yeah.... you need to drive it correctly. Watch some videos on using electronic traction systems and e-diffs. Even some Rover training videos (all Rovers pretty much act the same). If you are hammering the throttle, letting off completely, turning too fast, etc. The car responds to inputs form all sorts of sources. But the driver is the biggest source and if you are not letting the system do its job by abusing the throttle or such, it will back off and basically be like "fine, you do it then". Really boils down to keeping a steady throttle and letting it decide where power should go and how, it must detect slip to understand there is a need to kick in traction systems. So if you hammer the throttle and make all the wheels spin it actually may determine there is not an issue because its not seeing a big enough difference. Its just like hill decent control, if you use the throttle or brake is assumes you now want control and basically stops working.
 
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