Hey guys! Just bought a LR3 today. I have a discovery 2 already, but couldn’t resist the price. Anyway, it was a low price for a reason. The parking brake actuator is making a weird noise and all of a sudden it wouldn’t start in my driveway. I know these have a weird voltage thing, and the dome lights were on for a while during my cleaning of it but also the alternator was just replaced.

It was converted to coils, but the computer thinks it wasn’t and sends a dash light or two.

Anyway the key won’t turn all the way and the only dash light is the flashing parking brake. Wondering if yall know what’s up with it, I’m new to the lr3 system, so any help is appreciated. Thank you guys so much.

 

After a lot of messing around and thinking, I bought an ignition switch. In my mind that makes sense because the dash isn’t responding to the key in any position, but the security light is still blinking, and the PARK light is still flashing. And also the windows won’t roll up, so I’m guessing the computer thinks there’s no key in the ignition. Anyway I hope this works.

 

Based upon what you are describing, there is a disconnect between the Instrument panel and the immobilizer (located inside the Central Junction Box behind the glove box) The CJB is at the end of the MED CAN BUS so if the diagnostic codes so a problem with the Radio control head, the Heating/Air Conditioner control head , the tire pressure Monitoring system, the parking brake system you may have a break in the MED CANBUS as the Central junction box is at the end of that line.

What you will most likely find is that the immobilizer cannot communicate with the engine ECU and so you tend to look at the Engine ECU, but I would confirm the MED CAN BUS is intact before heading down that rabbit hole.

Also note that a wire disconnect could also be a bad or loose connector (or in the case of the instrument cluster, as bad solder joint).

Hope this helps
Jeff

 

You have a good battery now? The LR3 has a power sentry system that will disable things depending on power level. And it does not take a long time to kill the battery if the dome lights are one, even with LED lamps installed. If you are certain the battery is good then I would first start by doing a hard reset, disconnect it and wait 10 minutes. Reconnect and see what happens. With that said, you could be right about the switch. Not a common issue at all but even with a low power state I would expect more action than none when turning the key.

FYI, if you fob battery is dead it will not matter when it comes to starting. The battery in the fob is only for the button actions. Starting uses an RDIF chip in the fob that is on a small, separate circuit.

 

okay, I’ll check that wiring and see if anything looks bad. Thanks for the advice. I’ll be out of the country for a couple weeks, so I’ll update when I get back and have a chance to work on it



the battery is a little over a year old, however the alternator is practically brand new. I did the disconnect (twice actually) and it didn’t change anything. I also tried jumping it and nothing happened, so I’d like to think it has nothing to do with power supply. I agree that it should have tried a little even with no power, or even if it didn’t crank, that the dash might have lit up.

What you said about the FOB… do you mean the battery won’t affect starting the car? So not to worry about that?

 

If it drove home but suddenly doesn't start after you've had the interior lights on for a while, you need to actually check the battery voltage. Sometimes it is going to take more than a jump. There is also a fuse in the battery terminal and the funky terminals themselves will go bad, won't tighten properly and then won't allow the full starter current needed to actually turn the engine over.
Having a new alternator doesn't always mean much if it was replaced to cover for a failing battery.

As for being on coils, if the swap did not include a overrride module, either OBD or wired in, the vehicle will always display the lights relating to the suspension system. Cheap coil kits lack that module. Many of us here dislike the idea of swapping to coils as the cost of repairing your EAS is not likely to cost you more than "proper" coils and you keep that EAS capability, which is really central to an LR3. Without that you might as well be driving a 4Runner.

 

I am going to recheck the battery tomorrow, but what I did today was get into the CJB and test a few fuses. Looks like ignition and ECM aren’t getting any power, with key in every position. Actually every fuse plug I tested in the CJB didn’t have power. But all fuses in engine compartment fuse box has power.

as far as the coil swap, it is an OME kit that came with the override module, but PO didn’t wire it correctly. I will fix that after I can start up this car.

anyway, will update once I have more news