Hi AGLR, I have a jaguar XF with the same engine and recently changed timing tensioners. The crank bolt was hard to remove and even worst to tighten the new one, in fact I didnīt rotate it 270 degrees because the chinese tool got rounded, absolutely aliexpress crap:



Did you really reuse the bolt? How did you tighten it, 200Nm + 270 degrees?

 

You shouldn't have reused it as it is a stretch bolt. Did you torque the bolt 200 Nm + 270š ?

Impressive job anyway

 

I did re-use it. I'm sure new is best but I'm happy with my results.

I don't think I got to the full torque spec for similar reasons. Mine didn't actually slip but I was bending my long bar and it was as tight as I was going to reasonably get it.

If you want to go all the way I think a high quality socket and a torque amplifier will get you there.

 

Hey folks, I couldn’t read through all the comments so I don’t know if this was mentioned before. But the actual head bolt socket you need would be a TP60 (Torx Plus) socket. Don’t mess around trying to loosely fit hex bits, or hammering in regular torx T60 sockets. Get the TP60 , the style is called TORX PLUS. Hope this helps !

 

The socket you should use for the head bolts is TP60. The style is called Torx Plus. Don’t waste time hammering in a regular T60 torx or trying to fit a hex bit.

 

yuckbarry,

Do you have actual experience with this tool on a LR4 head bolt? I think this needs to be clarified for anyone looking for this info in the future. A current rebuild on another forum states that the TP60 DID NOT fit.

 

sorry about that misinformation. It did not fit!! I was pissed lol. I tried to delete the comment but I guess it needed to get approved before it posted.

what worked out in the end was a harbor freight t60 from the half inch set. And what I did was took it to a bench grinder and ever so slightly grinder off each star pointed part to be more square. The t60 from harbor freight half inch torx socket set fit perfect diameter wise but I had to hammer the bit into the bolt head . So squaring off the star points helped the bit fit the head bolt way better.
don’t get the TP60 lol. Just get the 1/2” torx socket set at harbor freight and square off the star points to resemble the tp60. Worked fine for me.

 

Update:
15k miles since rebuild and still running strong.

 

This is an exceptional thread. Inspiring, in fact. Intelligent, articulate, methodical approach to a complex task. I have a Lancia Montecarlo in my shed waiting for my attention, and thanks to your example my approach will be calm and careful rather than my all too usual haste and corner cutting. My Discovery 4 - that's what we call LR4's in Australia and elsewhere - needs nothing at present..\

So..just letting you know about a far off contribution you've made.

 

Hey Guys! I know I'm jumping in a little late, but in truth, I've been planning this for a while, but am just now getting into the project! Long story even longer, I'm doing a full rebuild on an SC engine that I'm putting into my 2010 LR4. We can get into the details of that project in another thread if you'd like. (We've been working it on a different forum site for a while now).

I do have a couple questions about the work you guys have done if that's ok?

First, I too have the M10 bolts, and in truth, they all came out with no issues. However, given the fact this is an SC engine and I'm planning a few power modifications down the road, I was thinking of purchasing the M11 kit and getting the newer style M11 bolts....or studs if I can find some that will work. (Although I have my doubts I can fit a socket into the head to torque the studs). Just curious if anyone has ever swapped for the larger bolts....in theory, "bigger is better" when it comes to head bolts?

Secondly, when you worked on your valves, as I understand it, the intake valves are automatically adjusted by the hydraulic pressure? Which leaves only the exhaust valve lash to be manually adjusted? Full disclosure, I only glanced at the shop manual about this, but it's how my 90 Acura Legend worked so it made sense....although those adjusted via a set screen and lock nut...not by utilizing different size tappets.

To wade into the tool discussion a little, I did buy the Freedom Racing head bolt tool and it fit perfectly on my bolts. You're right, pricey, but one stripped bolt and you've covered the cost! I also purchased this kit off Amazon:


The M11 fit the head bolts perfectly, and the M10 fit the exhaust header bolts perfectly. That said, while I checked for fit, I DID NOT check to make sure the M11 would fit inside the cylinder head. (I can check that later if you want). In theory it'll fit just fine, it's just not quite as long as the freedom racing tool, that's all.

Finally, and this is an odd one, have any of you ever come across a different size/style timing chain? The chain on the engine I'm rebuilding is twice as thick as the chain I ordered. Not to mention, I can't find my size/style chain anywhere? I've included a pic with the new chain on the right, old chain on the left. Any thoughts? In truth, I like the old chain better, again, bigger is better and stronger...but given the precision of this chain, it sounds quieter than the new one as well?...which I also really like.

Thanks for all the great info in the thread and I can't wait to hear what you all think!