2011 LR4 Engine Knock Idling
Have you found the problem, timing chain job done but still ticks at idle. Ticking noise coming from the left side of the engine. Here is the video for reference.
Last edited by Dsingh; Jan 19, 2024 at 07:37 PM.
My car also makes this noise, especially on hot restart. It goes with rpm or after driving for a few moments - returning to idle all is normal.
When you had the chains done did they chance the VCT units and chains or did they just change the tensioner and guides?
My current thinking or thought has been a lazy tensioner. I was hoping that the noise was coming at idle from slack in the chain making the VCT unit knock. The tensioner is a ratchet type but also fills with oil so as oil pressure increases the guide should move and take slack out of the chain.
Other working theories are low oil pressure at idle. However I've done 5k miles in mine now and the noise has not gotten worse and the engine has not self destructed so I am assuming I have oil pressure. Although I do still plan to modify an oil filter cap with an oil pressure gauge take off much like the stock Jaguar dealer part.
Next thought is the HP fuel pump, either the cam lobe or the pump its self. However, unless this has a hydraulic lifter I cannot see how/why the noise should be intermittent. My noise is identical to yours but only on idle. Left side of the engine when in the car (drivers side in the US).
Its a bit of a mystery tbh however not isolated - there are multiple instances of this on the net with Jaguars and Range Rovers. Sadly I have not found any such instance where the owner has given a definitive solution, generally their solution has been to trade the car in!
See some info and videos here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...riance-181551/
Other working theories are low oil pressure at idle. However I've done 5k miles in mine now and the noise has not gotten worse and the engine has not self destructed so I am assuming I have oil pressure. Although I do still plan to modify an oil filter cap with an oil pressure gauge take off much like the stock Jaguar dealer part.
Next thought is the HP fuel pump, either the cam lobe or the pump its self. However, unless this has a hydraulic lifter I cannot see how/why the noise should be intermittent. My noise is identical to yours but only on idle. Left side of the engine when in the car (drivers side in the US).
Its a bit of a mystery tbh however not isolated - there are multiple instances of this on the net with Jaguars and Range Rovers. Sadly I have not found any such instance where the owner has given a definitive solution, generally their solution has been to trade the car in!
See some info and videos here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...riance-181551/
Last edited by JLRob; Mar 13, 2024 at 09:23 AM.
Hi, been a while since I posted here. I have a 2011 LR4 , 188,000km. I've had it for 5 years since 133,000km. My research showed the timing chains were completed before I bought it at a reputable dealer in the Toronto area. The engine has always been strong and I have changed the oil frequently. I also added a Liquid Moly fuel cleaner about a year ago. The engine sounds pretty good, until I get the knock. To me it comes from the area of the Fuel Pumps. I thought it might be the tensioner in the oil pump/ fuel pump chain in the sump. But it is intermittent, shows up at idle (drive thru's are typical when you can hear the engine reflecting noise off the wall with your window open). It has been there since I got the car. It has bugged me but is yet to cause any failure. I'm not really answering the question as I have not solved the problem but just wanted to highlight that it's been there since I owned the vehicle (over 50,000km now). I get good fuel pressure and the engine is strong and revs freely.
It can be quite loud and disconcerting, nevermind the loss of credibility lol. Has anyone replaced the fuel pumps?
I just remembered, today I was changing the oil and the knocking started when I was heating the engine. Because I had the engine cover off, I actually put my finger on the fuel rail and I could feel the knocking vibration. Not sure if that's a clue!
It can be quite loud and disconcerting, nevermind the loss of credibility lol. Has anyone replaced the fuel pumps?
I just remembered, today I was changing the oil and the knocking started when I was heating the engine. Because I had the engine cover off, I actually put my finger on the fuel rail and I could feel the knocking vibration. Not sure if that's a clue!
Last edited by grammin; Mar 21, 2024 at 03:59 PM. Reason: Further thought
I don’t own a LR but a 12 XKR 5.0L Jag…. Same engine same problem…. Ticking on warm restart the worst.
when I start my car cold it’s not there. If it was a loose timing chain tensioner you would hear a cold start chatter…. I know I had one!
this noise comes after maybe 5-10 min at a stop light and you hear it inside the car. The. By the 3rd or 4th stop light trying to get on the freeway is improved or gone.
i watched a video about the HPFP system on these engines and the guy talks about how awful it is… “your gonna get excess noise and it’s coming from the Hpfp lower right side…. Your gonna be replacing these In pairs”
Here is the main issue we are having. I’ve not seen one person comment they replaced their HPFP, cam followers, and HPFP rails with resulting improvement or cure? Has anyone actually done this? I know I have not but have the parts on order for my indie to get done..
when I start my car cold it’s not there. If it was a loose timing chain tensioner you would hear a cold start chatter…. I know I had one!
this noise comes after maybe 5-10 min at a stop light and you hear it inside the car. The. By the 3rd or 4th stop light trying to get on the freeway is improved or gone.
i watched a video about the HPFP system on these engines and the guy talks about how awful it is… “your gonna get excess noise and it’s coming from the Hpfp lower right side…. Your gonna be replacing these In pairs”
Here is the main issue we are having. I’ve not seen one person comment they replaced their HPFP, cam followers, and HPFP rails with resulting improvement or cure? Has anyone actually done this? I know I have not but have the parts on order for my indie to get done..
Last edited by Lothar52; Oct 26, 2024 at 04:33 AM.
I had this knock on warm restart on my L405 5.0 since I bought it at 60k miles back in 2018. First set of timing chain and tensioner was done at 160k miles in 2023 when bank one tensioner failed. Only the tensioner and guides were replaced not the chain. Despite tensioner failing it did not jump time.
Two months ago one of the tensioner failed again at this time I was at 200k miles. Not lucky this time as tensioner failure caused the timing to jump on bank 2. This time I had the bank 2 rebuilt with new valves, resurfaced heads, complete timing components including VVT. The noise is now GONE.
The warm hot restart knock sounds almost identical to the noise I got when the tensioners failed both times.
I have posted many videos and topics on different forums since 2019. No one had a clue.
Im not sure which component fixed the noise but the engine is finally whisper quiet not. If I had to guess it’s the VVTs.
Two months ago one of the tensioner failed again at this time I was at 200k miles. Not lucky this time as tensioner failure caused the timing to jump on bank 2. This time I had the bank 2 rebuilt with new valves, resurfaced heads, complete timing components including VVT. The noise is now GONE.
The warm hot restart knock sounds almost identical to the noise I got when the tensioners failed both times.
I have posted many videos and topics on different forums since 2019. No one had a clue.
Im not sure which component fixed the noise but the engine is finally whisper quiet not. If I had to guess it’s the VVTs.
I would think that a quality rebuild “encroaching” to a blueprint would in fact result in a “smoother” operating engine.
We all experience the noisy operation of the engine. And based on the few unlucky and those that don’t change their oil frequently enough, and…. we all surmise “its the timing chains”.
I have contemplated a move to liqui-moly a few times as a preventative measure but… why bother…
As I don’t need to get a major timing chains and heads job done yet (concurrently knocking head whilst grinning at the odometer reading 170,000 kms with the original engine components) I live with the ever noisy engine. The “tap, tap, tap” and “rattle, rattle, rattle” reminds me of the old Volvo diesel in my sailboat, lol. At first, that mechanical HPFP rhythmic knocking was disconcerting…. now I expect to hear it.
But you did the right thing @Lwbrangerover ! Change it all. For example, if you’re changing the chain, so too should the guides, tensioners and sprockets. And the complete new valve job, text book with the machining of the heads… very nicely done.
And I suspect, not using chinesium parts.
Out of interest, what did this job set you back? Was it done at the dealer (I doubt it) or an Independent?
We all experience the noisy operation of the engine. And based on the few unlucky and those that don’t change their oil frequently enough, and…. we all surmise “its the timing chains”.
I have contemplated a move to liqui-moly a few times as a preventative measure but… why bother…
As I don’t need to get a major timing chains and heads job done yet (concurrently knocking head whilst grinning at the odometer reading 170,000 kms with the original engine components) I live with the ever noisy engine. The “tap, tap, tap” and “rattle, rattle, rattle” reminds me of the old Volvo diesel in my sailboat, lol. At first, that mechanical HPFP rhythmic knocking was disconcerting…. now I expect to hear it.
But you did the right thing @Lwbrangerover ! Change it all. For example, if you’re changing the chain, so too should the guides, tensioners and sprockets. And the complete new valve job, text book with the machining of the heads… very nicely done.
And I suspect, not using chinesium parts.
Out of interest, what did this job set you back? Was it done at the dealer (I doubt it) or an Independent?
Last edited by guy; Nov 24, 2024 at 07:00 AM.
I paid twice for this job because when the first tensioner failed I paid $7500 at a dealer and they ripped me off they only did the tensioner that failed. I also had replaced about 4k worth of additional original parts then (supercharger snout, injectors, plugs, coils, PCV, numerous coolant hoses, water pump/thermostat, etc etc). They gave me every old part besides the timing components. I was lucky because the timing hadn’t jumped.
Second go around it cost me $10k by a dealer tech on the side. I think I should have also done the PCV and injectors again.
JLR dealer had given me a bill of $40k and had told me to junk the truck. It’s funny because the timing hadn’t jumped on my watch it jumped when it got to the dealer. I’m sure some lot junkie started it despite me having notes plastered all over.
The first time I got the truck back I should have noticed something was up because although the truck was quieter it was still clanking like crazy on cold starts. I trusted the dealer and learned my lesson.
Second go around it cost me $10k by a dealer tech on the side. I think I should have also done the PCV and injectors again.
JLR dealer had given me a bill of $40k and had told me to junk the truck. It’s funny because the timing hadn’t jumped on my watch it jumped when it got to the dealer. I’m sure some lot junkie started it despite me having notes plastered all over.
The first time I got the truck back I should have noticed something was up because although the truck was quieter it was still clanking like crazy on cold starts. I trusted the dealer and learned my lesson.


