I'm sorry to hear the issues you're having
I'm all for the efficiency of using an Indy. But this sounds like a complex issue and he's in over his head. It unfortunately reads like throwing parts at it to hope it's fixed vs doing a proper diagnostic to work out the issues.
Just my opinion, but this sounds worth the 5 hours to the dealer. Have them diagnose properly with fault codes and the full ssd system and only replace what is faulty. Unfortunately the $4000 you spent so far was probably wasted money so I would not keep throwing more parts at it

Just my view and not meant to be any slight on your Indy who could be very good. But when you get to complex repairs on this it may well just be that your guy hasn't seen this issue or had enough LR4s in that he had the specialist expertise here

Also - if you get the actual original fault codes and post them here, some master technician might be able to give some guidance
Good luck

 

i was wondering how you solved the problem. i am in the same situation. i am into my 2011 lr4 5.0L for $over 4000.... i put the following in already
3 fuel pumps( 2 high &1 Low) ; MAF sensors (2); map sensor; fuel pump driver module.

this is the senarion. after the car reaches operating temperature; I slowly lose high fuel pressure gradually..... i start the vehicle my idling fuel pressure is 1100 in/hg. over the next 3 minutes it gradually loses high fuel pressure until it reaches 500 in/mg, then it stalls out.

i can restart the vehicle, but the same thing happens. it loses pressure until it stalls again in 3 mins.due to lw fuel pressure. This process will keep happening every time i start the vehicle.

Any feedback would be very helpful.

 

If every fuel component has been replaced(fuel pumps 3, high pressure sensor and low pressure sensor and the car doesn’t smoke due to leaking injectors and it hasn’t been into an accident[eliminates linked fuel hose])more so it is out of timing. It’s a chain driven cam off of the crankshaft. You need a few special tools just to check the timing, adjusting the timing is another game though.

 

My independent mechanic was able to resolve the issue eventually. He replaced all sensors, and sequentially replaced each fuel pump. It ended up being one of the low pressure fuel pumps that had failed. ie with the other 3 replaced the issue continued to occur, then was resolved when the last low pressure pump was replaced. To his credit he was probably more frustrated than I. Was a >$5k process. This was one year ago and the vehicle has been running fine after another 18k miles. Best of luck. I don't live near a Land Rover dealer or service center and have had a great experience with my local independent mechanic. It seems that this problem was just very tricky and the codes were of limited utility to him.

 

RugbyOregon what do you mean by ( one of the low fuel pumps)? the vehicle has one low pressure fuel pump that is inside the fuel tank and 2 high pressure pumps on the engine
can you confirm ?
having the same problem with mine
thanks

 

My understanding from my independent mechanic is that the LR4 has 2 low pressure fuel pumps. Replacing BOTH was eventually the solution in my vehicle.

 

Had similar issue happen with me today. 13 LR4 V8 with 81xxx miles.

Got an CEL while going through the gate to enter post, after about 2 miles, I pulled up at the parking lot to get something from my buddy's car while leaving the LR4 on. Came back and when trying to drive the engine struggle, no power and battery light flickered and came to a full stop and died. I pulled the handy GAP TOOL and read two codes. P0627 Fuel Pump A Control - Circuit Open and a P008B Low Pressure fuel System - Pressure too high.
Cleared the codes and did a quick live value reading, to which unfortunately I did not take a screenshot, and I remember seeing high voltage on the sensor. Upon reading and doing some research on the webs, it looks like normal values would be 0.8 to 3.1V and mine was at 4.5V.
I was concerned it was a faulty low pressure pump (at the tank), but it could be the sensor is faulty with an open circuit and the pump is having trouble regulating, thus giving codes for high pressure. Additionally, I can hear the pump whirring which fluctuates depending on RPMs.
This leads me to think I might have a bad sensor as opposed to a bad pump.
A second look at faults (with no CEL this time) I still have a P0627 on which I did not clear this time.
Truck has been towed from Ft. Campbell to LR in Nashville (hefty 270 bucks) and they are gonna read the codes and take a look at it tomorrow to see what is happening.
Hoping for a competent Master Tech to look at live values before throwing parts at it. Although covered by an almost expired extended warranty, I rather have this fixed as I am clearing the Army and I have a 600 mile trip in 2 days and that puts me out of my warranty.

I will post back upon further information.

 

I have the same problem on my 2014 lr4 5.0....I believe with all my heart it's going to be a clogged condenser can on the return line