2013 Land Rover LR4
I work at Mayo Clinic and we have classifieds ads where I found a 2013 Land Rover LR4 LUX for sale. I've always been intrigued with the Land Rover, especially the unique design and box frame. The car is a one owner vehicle and I've seen the CARFAX which shows that it has had all routine service done at a Land Rover dealership. The car looks new, inside and out and I can tell it has been very well-maintained. It has just under 129K miles so it has been driven fairly lightly mileage wise over the course of it's lifetime. It's selling for $9900 firm (I live in Wisconsin) I've driven the car and it rides beautifully. I've read (don't know if it's all true) that the 2013 LR4 has the highest reliability among this model which is encouraging if indeed true. I also read about Land Rover's general reputation of poor reliability and this concerns me. So my questions are: Is it true that the 2013 Land Rover LR4 has the best reliability in the LR4 class? The owner just replaced the vacuum pump and, as I mentioned, it looks like all routine service has been done at Land Rover dealership. If there is a good reliability record on these, what kind of mileage do owners accrue on these LR4s (200k - 250k) before putting up the money becomes hard to justify due to the remaining. What are the chances of me putting too much money into this car in the next 25K miles. If I bought it, I would want it to serve me well for the next 3 years or so and I figure that would get me up to 165K - 170K miles. I'm especially interested in those of you out there that own or have owned a 2013 Land Rover LR4 and how many miles it has given you relative to repair costs. Thank you! I look forward to the seeing replies to this thread.
Being a Wisconsin truck you will need to inspect for rust. Make sure the parking brake works and the spare tire winch work, lower the tire and see what the underbody looks like. Rust also eats the rear brake lines which are a big PITA to repair or replace. My MI LR3 looks good enough from above but it's a fright underneath. Road salt is nasty stuff.
Being a Wisconsin truck you will need to inspect for rust. Make sure the parking brake works and the spare tire winch work, lower the tire and see what the underbody looks like. Rust also eats the rear brake lines which are a big PITA to repair or replace. My MI LR3 looks good enough from above but it's a fright underneath. Road salt is nasty stuff.
I purchased a 2013 LR4 HSE four years ago and I've put on 28k miles in that time, the only check engine light I've had has been from a EGR pipe. I have done regular maintenance like brakes, tires and all fluids. At 100k I did have the crossover pipes/water pump done out of paranoia after reading the forums! All my work was done by Expedition Autoworks in St. Louis Park, great work done there. Land Rover in Golden Valley damaged my rear bumper when it was in there for the gas tank recall, and they did nothing in response to damage they caused. I will never bring my LR4 there again.
Thank you for your contribution to the thread. There is a very reputable independent service station In Eau Claire, WI where I live where I intend to bring the Land Rover for a pre-purchase inspection and if I do purchase it, I would bring it there for all service needs.
How many miles do you currently have on your 2013 LR4 and aside from EGR pipe, and brakes/tires, have you had other significant costs since your purchase? I know so much depends on regular maintenance including regular oil/filter changes but trying to get a sense of how many miles you currently have on your LR4 and what your more significant costs/repairs have been. Thanks much -
How many miles do you currently have on your 2013 LR4 and aside from EGR pipe, and brakes/tires, have you had other significant costs since your purchase? I know so much depends on regular maintenance including regular oil/filter changes but trying to get a sense of how many miles you currently have on your LR4 and what your more significant costs/repairs have been. Thanks much -
My 2013 has about 116,000 miles on it now, for me there have not been too many scarry issues. I do currently have a leak on the steering rack that could be repaired (I was quoted $2800 for a replacement), I don't have any odd feelings with the steering, just a greasy skid plate and I need to top off the fluid every year. The crossover pipes/water pump/coolant system flush was $2603. The 5.0 takes a lot of oil, over two gallons w/filter change so that can get costly depending on the oil you choose!
If you do go forward with your purchase, I'd recommend picking up the Gap Diagnostics IID Bluetooth Tool. It's worth the price. That saved me from taking it in for the EGR and I changed that pipe out in five minutes for $30ish.
What's the place in Eau Claire? I'm in Hudson and wouldn't mind a back up shop!
If you do go forward with your purchase, I'd recommend picking up the Gap Diagnostics IID Bluetooth Tool. It's worth the price. That saved me from taking it in for the EGR and I changed that pipe out in five minutes for $30ish.
What's the place in Eau Claire? I'm in Hudson and wouldn't mind a back up shop!
I read your comment about “spending too much money” and it made me smile.
JLR products are an absolute pleasure to drive.
But if you don’t keep up on the maintenance, the repairs are very costly.
if you’re finding a vehicle for < 10K… one that is 12 years old, be prepared to do all the maintenance.
An LR 4 isa brute of a machine that can do it all… until it breaks down due to lack of maintenance. And then, you will pay.
If you’re going for cost effectiveness, don’t choose these products.
Just being factual for you. As you can see from my inventory, I am committed to these vehicles. But I pay more than those with other types of vehicles.
JLR products are an absolute pleasure to drive.
But if you don’t keep up on the maintenance, the repairs are very costly.
if you’re finding a vehicle for < 10K… one that is 12 years old, be prepared to do all the maintenance.
An LR 4 isa brute of a machine that can do it all… until it breaks down due to lack of maintenance. And then, you will pay.
If you’re going for cost effectiveness, don’t choose these products.
Just being factual for you. As you can see from my inventory, I am committed to these vehicles. But I pay more than those with other types of vehicles.
A big question to ask/know is, why selling? Some people buy these trucks and ignore the maintenance. When a $$$ repair quote pops up, they just sell it. Doesn't look like the case but never hurts to ask. Dodging the question could also be a sign.
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